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SUVs Jeep Liberty and Jeep Liberty Diesel Jeep Liberty Diesel
10671 messages, Last post on Nov 10, 2009 at 6:56 PM
You are in the Jeep Liberty and Jeep Liberty Diesel Forum. Your Hosts are steve_ & tidester
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Replying to: drudgery (Jan 21, 2009 3:32 pm) P0101 - MAF (Mass Air Flow) Sensor P0401 - EGR - he didn't mention this one yesterday. All these are codes are interconnected: - If the EGR control valve remains jammed near the 'closed for fresh air flow' position, there is still some air pressure after the turbo and not enough flow of fresh air coming out of the airfilter box. Engine power is reduced. - If a hose is disconnected before the turbo, the system sees another unsupported malfunction. The engine can run, but emissions control can force the 'limp' mode. - If a hose is disconnected after the turbo, before the boost pressure sensor, then it waits for pressure to build up before injecting the mapped amount of fuel. The ECU needs to sense: fresh airflow + air temperature + atmospheric pressure + turbo boost + emission control status + "transmission ready" signals to allow maximum engine performance. |
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Replying to: caribou1 (Jan 19, 2009 1:30 am) "Under normal conditions, do not operate the starter for longer than 20 seconds at one time. At temperatures below 5°F (15°C), you may operate the starter for up to 25 seconds at one time. Longer periods of operation may result in starter or battery damage. If the engine does not start at once, repeat Steps 1 through 4." i know it seems like a LOOOONNNGGGG time to spin the starter so if it don't start after five seconds or so i always start over. i know i didn't really help any but i just wanted to share what i found out
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Replying to: jek443 (Dec 13, 2008 5:55 pm) In any case the sensor cost $35 at Jeep (a standard 3 Bar Bosch sensor) part number mopar 56044591AA. This sensor MAP and the MAF sensor which is on the air filter box primarily control the EGR valve. If the EGR valve is opening incorrectly it will reduce your boost from your turbo, cause black smoke a high speeds and finally cause a complete failure of boost control where the vehicle totally looses acceleration and power. By the by. MAF sensor can be remove (two screws, phillips) and cleaned with CRC Electromotive spray, no brushing here please. Maintenance on these item every 15,000 miles or replacement when they fail.
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Replying to: kntrygurl (Jan 22, 2009 2:56 pm) |
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Replying to: kntrygurl (Jan 22, 2009 2:56 pm) I observed that I have to wait 4 compression cycles before my engine starts at the beginning of the 5th compression, may it be winter or summer  Even when I restart the engine when it's still hot, it will only start when the 4th compression is accomplished; this may take time but allows the cylinders to empty unburned fuel and assure better compression (in theory). |
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Replying to: drudgery (Jan 20, 2009 11:56 am) |
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Replying to: CRD_Bullydog (Jan 23, 2009 12:46 pm) As to adding gasoline to the fuel, I would be really careful here. You would probably be better off adding an anti-gel additive or some 1-K kerosene. I use the latter. Gasoline could reduce the lubricity of the fuel enough where you might get CP3 pump damage or worse, failure. The CP3 pump is the high pressure pump used to pressurize the common rail on the CRD and is not cheap to replace. As to fuel additives, I stick to products from either RedLine oil or Amsoil. |
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Anyone in here remove this little bugger? Has anyone bypassed it altogether? I can't find the post, but someone mentioned they disconnected it and bypassed it so the "check engine light" doesn't stay on. My EGR Control valve went and the truck has been running like a top. Fuel mileage is great. No stalling, stuttering, shuddering or smoking. It turns out they want me to bring it in and get it replaced under warrenty. Not happening until someone really explains why... other then inspection.
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Replying to: nescosmo (Nov 01, 2008 10:14 pm) |
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Replying to: jimhemi (Feb 11, 2009 12:33 pm) I did not reconnect my EGR since 2004 and I accidentally took the truck for inspection  It turned out that it produces less opaque smoke than expected and the CO2 value was on the low side. I'm not complaining, but I know I'm walking on eggs  My winter mileage around the city is stable at 18.5 mpg since 3 months. I've used only Shell diesel fuel, the standard one (black label) and permanent 4WD . The V-Power diesel, more expensive, gives me less mileage. I'm also making this test to evaluate tire wear: I have new BFG T/As with 5,000 miles and no visible difference between front and rear. The depth gage will be the judge. |
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