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Jeep Liberty Diesel

10698 messages,  Last post on Nov 30, 2009 at 5:16 PM

You are in the Jeep Liberty and Jeep Liberty Diesel Forum. Your Hosts are steve_ & tidester

What is this discussion about? Jeep Liberty, Biodiesel, Diesel, SUV


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#10343 of 10698
Re: Weird issue - No power [nicku812] by drudgery
Jan 21, 2009 (3:32 pm)
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Replying to: nicku812 (Jan 21, 2009 9:32 am)

Here is the Update for the Fix so far.
Original fault codes were
P0299 - Boost Pressure Sensor
P0101 - MAF (Mass Air Flow) Sensor
P0401 - EGR - he didn't mention this one yesterday.
 
They changed replaced the following and I am including everything even though some is normal maintenance & unrelated:
1. MAF sensor replaced
2. Fuel Filter replaced
3. Air Filter replaced
4. Oil/Filter Changed
5. Differential - Transmission Fluid change
7. Radiator flushed
8. Front brakes replaced and turned rotors
 
Took it out for test drive and the P0401 - EGR came back on but they hadn't replaced the EGR yet wanted to wait until after the MAF sensor and everything else was done. Apparently they have them in stock (not surprising as often as I hear about them failing) and will change in the morning and hopefully won't have the CEL come back on. We'll see what happens tomorrow. Thanks for all the info guys.
#10344 of 10698
Re: Weird issue - No power [drudgery] by caribou1
Jan 22, 2009 (1:29 am)
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Replying to: drudgery (Jan 21, 2009 3:32 pm)

P0299 - Boost Pressure Sensor
P0101 - MAF (Mass Air Flow) Sensor
P0401 - EGR - he didn't mention this one yesterday.

 
All these are codes are interconnected:
- If the EGR control valve remains jammed near the 'closed for fresh air flow' position, there is still some air pressure after the turbo and not enough flow of fresh air coming out of the airfilter box. Engine power is reduced.
 
- If a hose is disconnected before the turbo, the system sees another unsupported malfunction. The engine can run, but emissions control can force the 'limp' mode.
 
- If a hose is disconnected after the turbo, before the boost pressure sensor, then it waits for pressure to build up before injecting the mapped amount of fuel.
 
The ECU needs to sense:
fresh airflow + air temperature + atmospheric pressure + turbo boost + emission control status + "transmission ready" signals to allow maximum engine performance.
#10345 of 10698
Re: Failure to Start Hot [caribou1] by kntrygurl
Jan 22, 2009 (2:56 pm)
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Replying to: caribou1 (Jan 19, 2009 1:30 am)

i was readin in the owners manual the other day because i was also concerned about how long it was takin it to start. Heres what i read:
"Under normal conditions, do not operate the starter
for longer than 20 seconds at one time. At temperatures
below 5°F (15°C), you may operate the starter
for up to 25 seconds at one time. Longer periods of
operation may result in starter or battery damage. If
the engine does not start at once, repeat Steps 1
through 4."
 
i know it seems like a LOOOONNNGGGG time to spin the starter so if it don't start after five seconds or so i always start over.
 
i know i didn't really help any but i just wanted to share what i found out
#10346 of 10698
Re: 2006 Jeep Liberty Diesel [jek443] by CRD_Bullydog
Jan 23, 2009 (12:46 pm)
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Replying to: jek443 (Dec 13, 2008 5:55 pm)

I think you should check your MAP sensor. It is located on the driver's side top rear of the engine under the thick wiring harness. There is a single allen hex bolt holding it in. Use a 4mm hex key to remove the bolt and flat washer. Gently turn the sensor 1/8 turn left and right rotation to loosen and then lift it out. Generally you will find it is gunked up with hardened engine oil vapor from the crankcase vent. Try cleaning it with a super soft tooth brush and CRC Electromotive cleaner. Don't put pressure on the little brass beanie which should become visible when sensor is getting clean. After cleaning or when replacing, use a drop of oil on O Ring, reinsert gently. Use left and right rotate motion, add bolt and hand tighten (inch pounds) no torque please.
 
In any case the sensor cost $35 at Jeep (a standard 3 Bar Bosch sensor) part number mopar 56044591AA. This sensor MAP and the MAF sensor which is on the air filter box primarily control the EGR valve.
 
If the EGR valve is opening incorrectly it will reduce your boost from your turbo, cause black smoke a high speeds and finally cause a complete failure of boost control where the vehicle totally looses acceleration and power. By the by. MAF sensor can be remove (two screws, phillips) and cleaned with CRC Electromotive spray, no brushing here please.
 
Maintenance on these item every 15,000 miles or replacement when they fail.
#10347 of 10698
Re: Failure to Start Hot [kntrygurl] by CRD_Bullydog
Jan 23, 2009 (1:08 pm)
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Replying to: kntrygurl (Jan 22, 2009 2:56 pm)

Sometimes you can get an airlock on the top of the fuel filter. Use the manual pump and pump up the pressure in the filter. Use the bleeder to remove that air or vapor. Repeat until you get nothing but fuel. You know, the Jeep sucks fuel from the tank. When there is anti-gel (usually a methanol component) in the fuel, vapors will separate under a vacuum. This produces a vapor lock like hard starting symptom. Check it out!
#10348 of 10698
Re: Failure to Start Hot [kntrygurl] by caribou1
Jan 25, 2009 (9:02 am)
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Replying to: kntrygurl (Jan 22, 2009 2:56 pm)

Kntrygurl,
I observed that I have to wait 4 compression cycles before my engine starts at the beginning of the 5th compression, may it be winter or summer
Even when I restart the engine when it's still hot, it will only start when the 4th compression is accomplished; this may take time but allows the cylinders to empty unburned fuel and assure better compression (in theory).
#10349 of 10698
Re: Weird issue - No power [drudgery] by nicku812
Jan 25, 2009 (8:26 pm)
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Replying to: drudgery (Jan 20, 2009 11:56 am)

Having my CRD doing simular with the power I think everyone should check for fuel leak by the fuel filter housing. When there is a leak it allows air into the system and then it takes several times to start. It dont always throw a code out. But 2 months ago I had to replace the fuel filter and then, had a code for the EGR valve and then two days later this came up. It seems it was throwing codes except fuel leak. I could not go over 35 and sometimes it would kill on the highway. Finally I took it to a good dealership and got it diagnoised, After fixing the problem with the fuel filer housing it runs like new.
#10350 of 10698
Re: 2006 Jeep Liberty Diesel [CRD_Bullydog] by winter2
Jan 31, 2009 (2:24 pm)
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Replying to: CRD_Bullydog (Jan 23, 2009 12:46 pm)

I have a 2005 CRD, purchased new with over 46K miles on it. Early on in the forum, Caribou mentioned cleaning the MAP sensor. The diesel tech at the dealer I go to mentioned cleaning the MAP sensor along with each oil change which I do every 5000 to 5500 miles.
 
As to adding gasoline to the fuel, I would be really careful here. You would probably be better off adding an anti-gel additive or some 1-K kerosene. I use the latter. Gasoline could reduce the lubricity of the fuel enough where you might get CP3 pump damage or worse, failure. The CP3 pump is the high pressure pump used to pressurize the common rail on the CRD and is not cheap to replace.
 
As to fuel additives, I stick to products from either RedLine oil or Amsoil.
#10351 of 10698
EGR... by jimhemi
Feb 11, 2009 (12:33 pm)
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Anyone in here remove this little bugger? Has anyone bypassed it altogether? I can't find the post, but someone mentioned they disconnected it and bypassed it so the "check engine light" doesn't stay on.
My EGR Control valve went and the truck has been running like a top. Fuel mileage is great. No stalling, stuttering, shuddering or smoking. It turns out they want me to bring it in and get it replaced under warrenty. Not happening until someone really explains why... other then inspection.
#10352 of 10698
Re: Check Engine Light [nescosmo] by jimhemi
Feb 11, 2009 (12:50 pm)
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Replying to: nescosmo (Nov 01, 2008 10:14 pm)

Where have you been buddy?

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