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Jeep Liberty Diesel

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#10340 of 10698 Re: Weird issue - No power [drudgery] by jek443 Jan 20, 2009 (12:28 pm)
Replying to: drudgery (Jan 20, 2009 11:56 am) The other strange thing about this situation is that if I am driving into a headwind, I will lose power, drop in speed from 75mph to 65 mph or even 60mph -- even if a strong crosswind. However, driving with the wind I have no problems.   I am keeping my fingers crossed that this new dealership I am going to has good diesel mechanics and know whatt he heck is going on.   Let me know if you have any luck with uyour situation.   Joe Replies to this message: drudgery (Jan 20, 2009 1:08 pm)
#10341 of 10698 Re: Weird issue - No power [jek443] by drudgery Jan 20, 2009 (1:08 pm)
Replying to: jek443 (Jan 20, 2009 12:28 pm) Shop just called said they are getting a Mass Airflow Sensor code and turbo boost pressure code - which could be related to the mass airflow sensor because if the sensor is fouled it won't know what to do with the turbo boost I guess? They are also getting the "normal" EGR code - I say normal because it seems a lot have had it. They're replacing the MAF sensor - should correct the boost code hopefully, fixing the EGR. If they can pull it off I'll be awfully happy - they s aid should be done by tomorrow - including doing a bunch of other normal maintenance. Get 2 days of rental car on the warranty company (EasyCare).   I believe the two main error codes were P0299 - Boost Pressure Sensor P0101 - MAF (Mass Air Flow) Sensor - these are similar to the other issues I have read about related to smoke - power loss but not identical to what I and others are decribing.
#10342 of 10698 Re: Weird issue - No power [drudgery] by nicku812 Jan 21, 2009 (9:32 am)
Replying to: drudgery (Jan 20, 2009 11:48 am) Hey for the past several weeks I had a problem with the power. It would not go over 35 then it had a delayed starting, would lose power and then start up again. So, I took it to the dealer. Come to find out that when you change the fuel filter (I did about 2 months ago) the O-rings in the filter housing gets loose and causes air in the line and lose power. The had to replace the entire filter housing just to get the O-rings. BUT it worked and now it runs like new. It also threw an engine code of a leak in the fuel line. But the mechanic told me that it dont always throw a code when there is this kind of problem. So Check for a leak at the O-rings on the fuel filter housing. Hope this helps out all or some of you. Replies to this message: drudgery (Jan 21, 2009 3:32 pm) caribou1 (Jan 22, 2009 1:29 am)
#10343 of 10698 Re: Weird issue - No power [nicku812] by drudgery Jan 21, 2009 (3:32 pm)
Replying to: nicku812 (Jan 21, 2009 9:32 am) Here is the Update for the Fix so far. Original fault codes were P0299 - Boost Pressure Sensor P0101 - MAF (Mass Air Flow) Sensor P0401 - EGR - he didn't mention this one yesterday.   They changed replaced the following and I am including everything even though some is normal maintenance & unrelated: 1. MAF sensor replaced 2. Fuel Filter replaced 3. Air Filter replaced 4. Oil/Filter Changed 5. Differential - Transmission Fluid change 7. Radiator flushed 8. Front brakes replaced and turned rotors   Took it out for test drive and the P0401 - EGR came back on but they hadn't replaced the EGR yet wanted to wait until after the MAF sensor and everything else was done. Apparently they have them in stock (not surprising as often as I hear about them failing) and will change in the morning and hopefully won't have the CEL come back on. We'll see what happens tomorrow. Thanks for all the info guys. Replies to this message: caribou1 (Jan 22, 2009 1:29 am)
#10344 of 10698 Re: Weird issue - No power [drudgery] by caribou1 Jan 22, 2009 (1:29 am)
Replying to: drudgery (Jan 21, 2009 3:32 pm) P0299 - Boost Pressure Sensor P0101 - MAF (Mass Air Flow) Sensor P0401 - EGR - he didn't mention this one yesterday.   All these are codes are interconnected: - If the EGR control valve remains jammed near the 'closed for fresh air flow' position, there is still some air pressure after the turbo and not enough flow of fresh air coming out of the airfilter box. Engine power is reduced.   - If a hose is disconnected before the turbo, the system sees another unsupported malfunction. The engine can run, but emissions control can force the 'limp' mode.   - If a hose is disconnected after the turbo, before the boost pressure sensor, then it waits for pressure to build up before injecting the mapped amount of fuel.   The ECU needs to sense: fresh airflow + air temperature + atmospheric pressure + turbo boost + emission control status + "transmission ready" signals to allow maximum engine performance.
#10345 of 10698 Re: Failure to Start Hot [caribou1] by kntrygurl Jan 22, 2009 (2:56 pm)
Replying to: caribou1 (Jan 19, 2009 1:30 am) i was readin in the owners manual the other day because i was also concerned about how long it was takin it to start. Heres what i read: "Under normal conditions, do not operate the starter for longer than 20 seconds at one time. At temperatures below 5°F ( 15°C), you may operate the starter for up to 25 seconds at one time. Longer periods of operation may result in starter or battery damage. If the engine does not start at once, repeat Steps 1 through 4."   i know it seems like a LOOOONNNGGGG time to spin the starter so if it don't start after five seconds or so i always start over.   i know i didn't really help any but i just wanted to share what i found out Replies to this message: CRD_Bullydog (Jan 23, 2009 1:08 pm) caribou1 (Jan 25, 2009 9:02 am)
#10346 of 10698 Re: 2006 Jeep Liberty Diesel [jek443] by CRD_Bullydog Jan 23, 2009 (12:46 pm)
Replying to: jek443 (Dec 13, 2008 5:55 pm) I think you should check your MAP sensor. It is located on the driver's side top rear of the engine under the thick wiring harness. There is a single allen hex bolt holding it in. Use a 4mm hex key to remove the bolt and flat washer. Gently turn the sensor 1/8 turn left and right rotation to loosen and then lift it out. Generally you will find it is gunked up with hardened engine oil vapor from the crankcase vent. Try cleaning it with a super soft tooth brush and CRC Electromotive cleaner. Don't put pressure on the little brass beanie which should become visible when sensor is getting clean. After cleaning or when replacing, use a drop of oil on O Ring, reinsert gently. Use left and right rotate motion, add bolt and hand tighten (inch pounds) no torque please.   In any case the sensor cost $35 at Jeep (a standard 3 Bar Bosch sensor) part number mopar 56044591AA. This sensor MAP and the MAF sensor which is on the air filter box primarily control the EGR valve.   If the EGR valve is opening incorrectly it will reduce your boost from your turbo, cause black smoke a high speeds and finally cause a complete failure of boost control where the vehicle totally looses acceleration and power. By the by. MAF sensor can be remove (two screws, phillips) and cleaned with CRC Electromotive spray, no brushing here please.   Maintenance on these item every 15,000 miles or replacement when they fail. Replies to this message: winter2 (Jan 31, 2009 2:24 pm)
#10347 of 10698 Re: Failure to Start Hot [kntrygurl] by CRD_Bullydog Jan 23, 2009 (1:08 pm)
Replying to: kntrygurl (Jan 22, 2009 2:56 pm) Sometimes you can get an airlock on the top of the fuel filter. Use the manual pump and pump up the pressure in the filter. Use the bleeder to remove that air or vapor. Repeat until you get nothing but fuel. You know, the Jeep sucks fuel from the tank. When there is anti-gel (usually a methanol component) in the fuel, vapors will separate under a vacuum. This produces a vapor lock like hard starting symptom. Check it out!
#10348 of 10698 Re: Failure to Start Hot [kntrygurl] by caribou1 Jan 25, 2009 (9:02 am)
Replying to: kntrygurl (Jan 22, 2009 2:56 pm) Kntrygurl, I observed that I have to wait 4 compression cycles before my engine starts at the beginning of the 5th compression, may it be winter or summer Even when I restart the engine when it's still hot, it will only start when the 4th compression is accomplished; this may take time but allows the cylinders to empty unburned fuel and assure better compression (in theory).
#10349 of 10698 Re: Weird issue - No power [drudgery] by nicku812 Jan 25, 2009 (8:26 pm)
Replying to: drudgery (Jan 20, 2009 11:56 am) Having my CRD doing simular with the power I think everyone should check for fuel leak by the fuel filter housing. When there is a leak it allows air into the system and then it takes several times to start. It dont always throw a code out. But 2 months ago I had to replace the fuel filter and then, had a code for the EGR valve and then two days later this came up. It seems it was throwing codes except fuel leak. I could not go over 35 and sometimes it would kill on the highway. Finally I took it to a good dealership and got it diagnoised, After fixing the problem with the fuel filer housing it runs like new.

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