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SUVs Jeep Liberty and Jeep Liberty Diesel Jeep Liberty Diesel
10697 messages, Last post on Nov 27, 2009 at 12:02 PM
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Replying to: caribou1 (Jan 09, 2009 11:46 am) Is there any chance of damaging the engine by putting a quart of gasoline in the tank? I have a buddy who drove expedite , and he used to do the same out west in when Calgary when tempteratures dropped well below -30 C . Is it the thinning of the fuel?..that allows more fuel to the cylinder ?..or is it that it burns hotter?..maybe easier to fire up initially?.. How about furl additives with alcohol "Methyl Hydrate" will this help? Lightnin.. |
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Replying to: lightnin3 (Jan 18, 2009 7:37 pm) A small proportion of gasoline helps diesel fuel 'filtration' at lower temperatures. It gives mobility to the paraffin (wax) contained in the fuel, in other words the paraffin does not rapidly turn into solid wax and block the flow of fuel. If you put too much gasoline the fuel will self ignite and you're in real trouble especially when you have an automatic  I used 'White Spirit', an oily paint thinner that comes out of the refining process well before diesel fuel. It's close to Kerosene that we have in our winterized fuel. I have no experience with alcohol based additives. I just read a local article saying methanol will catch water stagnating in your diesel fuel tank and make it a combustible solution. The amount of water you can mix/catch with a quart of pure methanol corresponds to 12-15 fluid oz. This suits the common rail technology assuming every filter and water separator is in good working order. We should not go beyond this volume. If you use a quart of 'burning alcohol', you can only absorb 3-5 fluid oz of water. In this case you are putting water in the tank 
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Replying to: storageguy (Jan 16, 2009 9:06 am) It's a VERY long LAG (many, many seconds and could be up to a minute if I don;t stop and let it idle for several 3-10 seconds) and then go again. It's at the shop right now so hopefully will know by tomorrow or Thursday. Thanks for the input.
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Replying to: jek443 (Jan 16, 2009 10:31 am) I did put fuel treatment in the other day and although it reduced how frequently it happened - it still happened and it was warmer. It also just doesn't seem like bad fuel (it's running fine - doesn't sputter or miss or sound weird - there is JUST no power when it happens. It feels like the turbo is not spooling up at all when it happens but is just so strange how it can come and go. Its in the shop as we speak so I will get some news pretty soon and post it.
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Replying to: drudgery (Jan 20, 2009 11:56 am) I am keeping my fingers crossed that this new dealership I am going to has good diesel mechanics and know whatt he heck is going on. Let me know if you have any luck with uyour situation. Joe
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Replying to: jek443 (Jan 20, 2009 12:28 pm) I believe the two main error codes were P0299 - Boost Pressure Sensor P0101 - MAF (Mass Air Flow) Sensor - these are similar to the other issues I have read about related to smoke - power loss but not identical to what I and others are decribing. |
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Replying to: drudgery (Jan 20, 2009 11:48 am)
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Replying to: nicku812 (Jan 21, 2009 9:32 am) Original fault codes were P0299 - Boost Pressure Sensor P0101 - MAF (Mass Air Flow) Sensor P0401 - EGR - he didn't mention this one yesterday. They changed replaced the following and I am including everything even though some is normal maintenance & unrelated: 1. MAF sensor replaced 2. Fuel Filter replaced 3. Air Filter replaced 4. Oil/Filter Changed 5. Differential - Transmission Fluid change 7. Radiator flushed 8. Front brakes replaced and turned rotors Took it out for test drive and the P0401 - EGR came back on but they hadn't replaced the EGR yet wanted to wait until after the MAF sensor and everything else was done. Apparently they have them in stock (not surprising as often as I hear about them failing) and will change in the morning and hopefully won't have the CEL come back on. We'll see what happens tomorrow. Thanks for all the info guys.
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Replying to: drudgery (Jan 21, 2009 3:32 pm) P0101 - MAF (Mass Air Flow) Sensor P0401 - EGR - he didn't mention this one yesterday. All these are codes are interconnected: - If the EGR control valve remains jammed near the 'closed for fresh air flow' position, there is still some air pressure after the turbo and not enough flow of fresh air coming out of the airfilter box. Engine power is reduced. - If a hose is disconnected before the turbo, the system sees another unsupported malfunction. The engine can run, but emissions control can force the 'limp' mode. - If a hose is disconnected after the turbo, before the boost pressure sensor, then it waits for pressure to build up before injecting the mapped amount of fuel. The ECU needs to sense: fresh airflow + air temperature + atmospheric pressure + turbo boost + emission control status + "transmission ready" signals to allow maximum engine performance. |
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Replying to: caribou1 (Jan 19, 2009 1:30 am) "Under normal conditions, do not operate the starter for longer than 20 seconds at one time. At temperatures below 5°F (15°C), you may operate the starter for up to 25 seconds at one time. Longer periods of operation may result in starter or battery damage. If the engine does not start at once, repeat Steps 1 through 4." i know it seems like a LOOOONNNGGGG time to spin the starter so if it don't start after five seconds or so i always start over. i know i didn't really help any but i just wanted to share what i found out
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