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SUVs Jeep Liberty and Jeep Liberty Diesel Jeep Liberty Diesel
10698 messages, Last post on Nov 30, 2009 at 5:16 PM
You are in the Jeep Liberty and Jeep Liberty Diesel Forum. Your Hosts are steve_ & tidester
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Replying to: zeller (Jan 09, 2009 7:01 am) Also look for possible damage of the plunger seal/lip. The new one could have been damaged when installed. A leak at this point would balance pressure or release air bubbles where you need a solid volume of fuel. |
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Replying to: zeller (Jan 09, 2009 7:01 am) You may have to run it and do it a couple of times to get most of the air out. Having lots of water in your filter in "NOT GOOD" that is telling you something.yes it is a water seperator but it has limits too. Also the water "content" percentage of water is more than 30% in your fuel can affect this as well. There is an additive from the "diesel stops or suppliers " that is a "water remover" this is great for the winter fuel you get from the pump.at least 20% is water your pumping into your tank.and at the prices we are paying they should be draining those under ground tanks at the station every week. usually can't be helped from condensation build up.It naturally builds up in the tank from the hot/cold transition. It's like what happens in the morning when you have frosty windows?..well that is water just frozen,a minute amount but over time it builds up in the fuel tank. I usually buy a bottle of Kleen Flo or power service 911 dump a 1/2 bottle of that in a full tank if it is really bad.and a cetane improver 1/2 bottle. This should help with the start ups. Oh and this hard starting can drain the battrie you might want to put her on charge over night,and plug in that the core heater for those cold nights below 25 degrees.Your starter will thank you..and last a couple more years than usual. Besides you'll notice your mileage and fuel usage will be better if you do so. Winter fuel has more water content and will lower your mileage.Hint Because there is a warm up time of 5 minutes on the road ,your mileage and defroster heat will take some time. I use the the old sticking the carboard in front the radiator trick. Block it off totally to reduce the warm up time. I got her down to a minute now till she is at temp. Oh by the way to warm her up.. you have to drive it , don't waist fuel idling her. USE THE CORE HEATER !!..it's a extension cord tied to your oil dipstick.cut the tie wraps and use it ! . I believe most of these diesels it comes as a standard option. Good luck .. Lightnin..
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Replying to: lightnin3 (Jan 09, 2009 9:08 am) 
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Replying to: nescosmo (Oct 28, 2008 10:06 pm)  hotmail.com
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Last week I had new brakes installed on my CRD. I had to throw out the original rotors and pads with 43.8K on them. The rear pads were totally warn and the rotors(by Bosch) had some hot spots on them. The front rotors (made in China) were warped but the pads were in good condition with about one-half of the friction material remaining. Both the dealer and two mechanics told me that MOPAR OEM brakes were junk. I did upgrade my brakes. I am using rotors from ultimate braking. They are cross drilled and slotted (both front and back) with high performance semi-metallic pads. Got about 150 miles on the new brakes and they are sweet. Stopping distances are much shorter and the brake pedal feel is very good. Had the system flushed and had synthetic DOT 4 brake fluid put in. |
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I have a 2005 CRD with 75k miles, (LOVE the truck despite some of its issues) and had all the normal recall stuff done but am having an odd problem I think may be related to the EGR or fule/air sensor of some kind. Description of problem: Will be running just fine for miles can occur (warm or cold) and then occasionally when stopped at a light/stop sign for several seconds we pull away and there is absolutely no power and the farther you push the gas the less power (will not go above 30-40 mph. The weird thing is to make it go back to normal all you have to do is let it idle for 5-10 seconds and then go again and everything is fine. I am planning on taking it to the dealership this week but I wanted to get the real scoop here because they only work on about 2 or 3 of them I think. Any help to determine what might be causing or what is not casuing it are appreciated. Thanks -- Andy C |
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I have an 05 Liberty Diesel. Had my Jeep in to the mechanic today said I needed a tensioner and Serpentine belt. Belt $170 Tensioner $ 310 Think this is extremely steep since it is a simple piece of ruber and a tensioner and without labour already up to 480. Has anyone required a replacement of these parts and if so have you been able to get a better deal? Thanks for all your help 
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Replying to: drudgery (Jan 12, 2009 3:09 pm) Have you tried "blowing its nose"? This can clear out the system.
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Replying to: Eastcoastz (Jan 12, 2009 6:10 pm) Belt $24-$60 Tensioner not listed. I have 135,000 mi on original belt and it still looks good. |
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Replying to: Eastcoastz (Jan 12, 2009 6:10 pm)  ) at 60,000 miles. It was in a fine condition but the dealer changed it arguing that they had to do it according to Jeep prescriptions. They did not route the new belt in the proper way and I repositioned it later. This is what I observed: The tensionner's spring should last the life of the engine, the bearing inside the pulley is another story. Mine is still fine and I have about 90,000 miles on the truck. Changing the serpentine belt is very simple as long as you have sufficient light, dirty overalls and that you can reach the bottom pulley to follow the pattern shown on the sticker. You need a 15mm box wrench with a lever 20 inches long to retract the tensionner without effort; once kept retracted with one hand, you slide the belt on or off the alternator pulley with the other hand. You use the nut from the shaft of the pulley to swing the pulley out of the way. This also tightens the nut if needed. It should not take you more than 10 minutes unless you are curious. Don't forget to remove the oil and dirt of the air hose before you start 
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