Edmunds.com | Inside Line | Auto Observer Your Account | Help | Directory
You are here:
![[F]](http://a332.g.akamai.net/f/332/936/12h/www.edmunds.com/media/townhall/webxicons/site.gif){kind=small}
Forums
SUVs Jeep Liberty and Jeep Liberty Diesel Jeep Liberty Diesel
10669 messages, Last post on Nov 09, 2009 at 1:18 PM
You are in the Jeep Liberty and Jeep Liberty Diesel Forum. Your Hosts are steve_ & tidester
|
Replying to: caribou1 (Dec 14, 2008 8:13 am) The Usual suspect for black smoke when accelerating is Dirty air filter. When was it last changed?. Poor air / fuel mixture on diesel equals smoke. There are a few other suggestions. Watch out for bad fuel, fuel. Usually the "premium Diesel " there are 2 types .About 50 % of the B.P stations carry it. the local corner doesn't usually . and also get a bottle of the Power service and pore that in . you'll want to unclog the injectors. All of which can fix the amount of smoke situation. Also bring it in once a year for a diagnostic to the dealership. you'll want to set an appointment with the best diesel mechanic they have that is trained on these engines. 2 other culprits can be if the engine light is on you may have a glow plug burnt out or a carboned up egr valve body . This will cause lots of black smoke if you are constantly buying the reular "low cetane fuels" with no cetane improvers or injector cleaners .If this is not used at every fill up the black smoke gets slowly worse and worse. Thats it ..good luck !!..Oh and even after you get it serviced you'll have smoke till it is purged out of the system. It might be a good idea to go on a trip with her to blow out the catalytic filter. Happy Holidays.. Joyeux Noel..Et Bonne Anne.. Lightnin.. |
|
|
My diesel was taking longer to start than it should, then got worse to the point it would'nt start at all. I also had the water in the fuel light on. So went to the local Mom & Pop who changed the filter, the primer plunger also didn't work so he changed it for the second time. First time under warrantee second time at my expense. Then the car would only start by pumping the plunger. Brought it to the dealer who said the fuel system wasn't bled properly, said it was fixed and fine. IT WAS NOT! Got home and it wouldn't restart. Seems the car starts cold but won't restart hot. It's been 2 weeks without my car. I am bummed. Can anyone tell me what to check, so I can gat this thing back on the road? Diesel Fan in Babylon LI
|
|
|
Replying to: zeller (Jan 09, 2009 7:01 am) Also look for possible damage of the plunger seal/lip. The new one could have been damaged when installed. A leak at this point would balance pressure or release air bubbles where you need a solid volume of fuel. |
|
|
Replying to: zeller (Jan 09, 2009 7:01 am) You may have to run it and do it a couple of times to get most of the air out. Having lots of water in your filter in "NOT GOOD" that is telling you something.yes it is a water seperator but it has limits too. Also the water "content" percentage of water is more than 30% in your fuel can affect this as well. There is an additive from the "diesel stops or suppliers " that is a "water remover" this is great for the winter fuel you get from the pump.at least 20% is water your pumping into your tank.and at the prices we are paying they should be draining those under ground tanks at the station every week. usually can't be helped from condensation build up.It naturally builds up in the tank from the hot/cold transition. It's like what happens in the morning when you have frosty windows?..well that is water just frozen,a minute amount but over time it builds up in the fuel tank. I usually buy a bottle of Kleen Flo or power service 911 dump a 1/2 bottle of that in a full tank if it is really bad.and a cetane improver 1/2 bottle. This should help with the start ups. Oh and this hard starting can drain the battrie you might want to put her on charge over night,and plug in that the core heater for those cold nights below 25 degrees.Your starter will thank you..and last a couple more years than usual. Besides you'll notice your mileage and fuel usage will be better if you do so. Winter fuel has more water content and will lower your mileage.Hint Because there is a warm up time of 5 minutes on the road ,your mileage and defroster heat will take some time. I use the the old sticking the carboard in front the radiator trick. Block it off totally to reduce the warm up time. I got her down to a minute now till she is at temp. Oh by the way to warm her up.. you have to drive it , don't waist fuel idling her. USE THE CORE HEATER !!..it's a extension cord tied to your oil dipstick.cut the tie wraps and use it ! . I believe most of these diesels it comes as a standard option. Good luck .. Lightnin..
|
|
|
Replying to: lightnin3 (Jan 09, 2009 9:08 am) 
|
|
|
|
|
Replying to: nescosmo (Oct 28, 2008 10:06 pm)  hotmail.com
|
|
|
Last week I had new brakes installed on my CRD. I had to throw out the original rotors and pads with 43.8K on them. The rear pads were totally warn and the rotors(by Bosch) had some hot spots on them. The front rotors (made in China) were warped but the pads were in good condition with about one-half of the friction material remaining. Both the dealer and two mechanics told me that MOPAR OEM brakes were junk. I did upgrade my brakes. I am using rotors from ultimate braking. They are cross drilled and slotted (both front and back) with high performance semi-metallic pads. Got about 150 miles on the new brakes and they are sweet. Stopping distances are much shorter and the brake pedal feel is very good. Had the system flushed and had synthetic DOT 4 brake fluid put in. |
|
|
I have a 2005 CRD with 75k miles, (LOVE the truck despite some of its issues) and had all the normal recall stuff done but am having an odd problem I think may be related to the EGR or fule/air sensor of some kind. Description of problem: Will be running just fine for miles can occur (warm or cold) and then occasionally when stopped at a light/stop sign for several seconds we pull away and there is absolutely no power and the farther you push the gas the less power (will not go above 30-40 mph. The weird thing is to make it go back to normal all you have to do is let it idle for 5-10 seconds and then go again and everything is fine. I am planning on taking it to the dealership this week but I wanted to get the real scoop here because they only work on about 2 or 3 of them I think. Any help to determine what might be causing or what is not casuing it are appreciated. Thanks -- Andy C |
|
|
|
|
I have an 05 Liberty Diesel. Had my Jeep in to the mechanic today said I needed a tensioner and Serpentine belt. Belt $170 Tensioner $ 310 Think this is extremely steep since it is a simple piece of ruber and a tensioner and without labour already up to 480. Has anyone required a replacement of these parts and if so have you been able to get a better deal? Thanks for all your help 
|
|
|
Replying to: drudgery (Jan 12, 2009 3:09 pm) Have you tried "blowing its nose"? This can clear out the system.
|
|
You are here:
Forums
SUVs Jeep Liberty and Jeep Liberty Diesel Jeep Liberty Diesel
New? Join Now!
Forum Tools
Search Forums
Browse by Vehicle
2010 Jeep Liberty
Browse by Board
Browse by Topic
Today's Chats
