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Jeep Liberty Diesel

10698 messages,  Last post on Nov 30, 2009 at 5:16 PM

You are in the Jeep Liberty and Jeep Liberty Diesel Forum. Your Hosts are steve_ & tidester

What is this discussion about? Jeep Liberty, Biodiesel, Diesel, SUV


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#10305 of 10698
Re: Battery Problems [willysjeep] by caribou1
Dec 15, 2008 (1:24 am)
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Replying to: willysjeep (Dec 14, 2008 8:39 pm)

How old was your battery?
You will notice there is always current drawn from the battery when you re connect the ground lug: this produces sparks
#10306 of 10698
Re: Battery Problems [willysjeep] by storageguy
Dec 15, 2008 (7:22 am)
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Replying to: willysjeep (Dec 14, 2008 8:39 pm)

Hi. I had a similar problem with my 2006 CRD. and I also do not drive the vehicle for a week or two at a time. Previously in this formum someone stated that if you have a factory installed trailer hitch that there is a constant draw to the trailer plug.
What has worked for me is to remove the keys from the ignition, that is take them right out, when not using the vehicle.
#10307 of 10698
Re: 2006 Jeep Liberty Diesel [jek443] by mdamick
Dec 15, 2008 (11:28 am)
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Replying to: jek443 (Dec 13, 2008 5:55 pm)

Have them check the EGR.
If it is stuck open it will cause a power loss.
Also check the turbo hoses, you might have a loose one.
#10308 of 10698
Re: 2006 Jeep Liberty Diesel [mdamick] by willysjeep
Dec 19, 2008 (3:09 pm)
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Replying to: mdamick (Dec 15, 2008 11:28 am)

 
 
Thanks for the response.
 
I replaced the original battery at 36,000 miles with a battery larger than was originally installed (more amp-hours). I guess that was about a year ago. I do take the keys out of the vehicle when it is not being driven. I do have a trailer hitch installed. I will continue to use a battery maintainer in the cigarette lighter to assure starting on cold winter mornings.
 
Does anyone have any other tips on assuring that my battery will not discharge?
#10309 of 10698
Re: 2006 Jeep Liberty Diesel [willysjeep] by bhcs111
Dec 19, 2008 (5:55 pm)
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Replying to: willysjeep (Dec 19, 2008 3:09 pm)

I just put in battery #5 today. I have a 2005, this last battery lasted a total of three months. I haven't had to pay for any of the batteries as of yet. They don't last long enough to go past warranty. I have pulled the fuse for the trailer tow plug this time to see if that works. If not I'll look into something else to see what the problem is. I was driving my Jeep everyday and still had problems. Now I only drive it a couple of times a week. I moved closer to work so I walk most of the time.The first battery lasted a little over a year. I have one of the first diesels made.
#10310 of 10698
Re: Love your CRD? [nescosmo] by jek443
Dec 22, 2008 (5:58 pm)
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Replying to: nescosmo (Aug 20, 2007 9:30 pm)

I disconnected the MAF sensor today and my CRD had less performance than when it was connected. A coupls of days ago I drove from Victoria, TX to Houston )about 140 miles), the Jeep ran great. Hoever on the way back, I lost power, had to pull off the road, turn off engine, wait a few minutes and reestart. The Jeep would run fine for a few miles. I could barely maintain 65 mph.
 
Also, does anyone have a diagram or photo of where this "lawnmower filter" is suppose to be? What is the rue name of this device in the Field Service Manual?
 
Should I umplug the EGR or should I clean the CCV / MAP and EGR?
 
Anyone know of any good mechanics in Houston or Corpus area?
#10311 of 10698
Re: 2006 Jeep Liberty Diesel [caribou1] by lightnin3
Dec 29, 2008 (3:20 pm)
Reply

Replying to: caribou1 (Dec 14, 2008 8:13 am)

I agree with Caribou on this one.
The Usual suspect for black smoke when accelerating is Dirty air filter.
When was it last changed?. Poor air / fuel mixture on diesel equals smoke.
There are a few other suggestions.
Watch out for bad fuel, fuel. Usually the "premium Diesel " there are 2 types .About 50 % of the B.P stations carry it. the local corner doesn't usually . and also get a bottle of the Power service and pore that in . you'll want to unclog the injectors.
All of which can fix the amount of smoke situation.
Also bring it in once a year for a diagnostic to the dealership. you'll want to set an appointment with the best diesel mechanic they have that is trained on these engines.
2 other culprits can be if the engine light is on you may have a glow plug burnt out or a carboned up egr valve body .
This will cause lots of black smoke if you are constantly buying the reular "low cetane fuels" with no cetane improvers or injector cleaners .If this is not used at every fill up the black smoke gets slowly worse and worse.
 
Thats it ..good luck !!..Oh and even after you get it serviced you'll have smoke till it is purged out of the system. It might be a good idea to go on a trip with her to blow out the catalytic filter.
Happy Holidays..
Joyeux Noel..Et Bonne Anne..
Lightnin..
#10312 of 10698
Failure to Start Hot by zeller
Jan 09, 2009 (7:01 am)
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My diesel was taking longer to start than it should, then got worse to the point it would'nt start at all. I also had the water in the fuel light on. So went to the local Mom & Pop who changed the filter, the primer plunger also didn't work so he changed it for the second time. First time under warrantee second time at my expense. Then the car would only start by pumping the plunger. Brought it to the dealer who said the fuel system wasn't bled properly, said it was fixed and fine. IT WAS NOT! Got home and it wouldn't restart. Seems the car starts cold but won't restart hot. It's been 2 weeks without my car. I am bummed. Can anyone tell me what to check, so I can gat this thing back on the road?
Diesel Fan in Babylon LI
#10313 of 10698
Re: Failure to Start Hot [zeller] by caribou1
Jan 09, 2009 (7:21 am)
Reply

Replying to: zeller (Jan 09, 2009 7:01 am)

Could you try to open and close the filling cap of the fuel tank just before starting when warm? This is to look for eventual under pressure.
Also look for possible damage of the plunger seal/lip. The new one could have been damaged when installed. A leak at this point would balance pressure or release air bubbles where you need a solid volume of fuel.
#10314 of 10698
Re: Failure to Start Hot [zeller] by lightnin3
Jan 09, 2009 (9:08 am)
Reply

Replying to: zeller (Jan 09, 2009 7:01 am)

It sounds like you still got air in the fuel line.Use the manual bleeder valve across from the hand pump on the filter assembly. use a socket wrench to open it a couple of turns.then pump the primer ,and make sure you have something to catch the fuel coming out as you pump. of it sputters , that means there is still air in the lines.If there is even a little air and not straight fuel feed it'll be hard starting.
You may have to run it and do it a couple of times to get most of the air out.
Having lots of water in your filter in "NOT GOOD" that is telling you something.yes it is a water seperator but it has limits too.
Also the water "content" percentage of water is more than 30% in your fuel can affect this as well. There is an additive from the "diesel stops or suppliers " that is a "water remover" this is great for the winter fuel you get from the pump.at least 20% is water your pumping into your tank.and at the prices we are paying they should be draining those under ground tanks at the station every week. usually can't be helped from condensation build up.It naturally builds up in the tank from the hot/cold transition. It's like what happens in the morning when you have frosty windows?..well that is water just frozen,a minute amount but over time it builds up in the fuel tank.
I usually buy a bottle of Kleen Flo or power service 911 dump a 1/2 bottle of that in a full tank if it is really bad.and a cetane improver 1/2 bottle.
This should help with the start ups.
Oh and this hard starting can drain the battrie you might want to put her on charge over night,and plug in that the core heater for those cold nights below 25 degrees.Your starter will thank you..and last a couple more years than usual.
Besides you'll notice your mileage and fuel usage will be better if you do so.
Winter fuel has more water content and will lower your mileage.Hint Because there is a warm up time of 5 minutes on the road ,your mileage and defroster heat will take some time.
I use the the old sticking the carboard in front the radiator trick.
Block it off totally to reduce the warm up time. I got her down to a minute now till she is at temp.
Oh by the way to warm her up.. you have to drive it , don't waist fuel idling her.
USE THE CORE HEATER !!..it's a extension cord tied to your oil dipstick.cut the tie wraps and use it ! .
I believe most of these diesels it comes as a standard option.
Good luck ..
Lightnin..

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