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SUVs Jeep Liberty and Jeep Liberty Diesel Jeep Liberty Diesel
10698 messages, Last post on Nov 30, 2009 at 5:16 PM
You are in the Jeep Liberty and Jeep Liberty Diesel Forum. Your Hosts are steve_ & tidester
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Replying to: siberia (Dec 03, 2008 3:06 am) - Industrial timing belts are designed to operate between -30C and +80C. - Most flat belts have a continuous wire core of steel or glass fiber spooled side to side across the width of the pulley on one layer only. By design, such a product should be able to survive 10,000,000 oscillations under full load at maximum temperature, given a bending radius of ~10 times the wire diameter. http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Fatigue_(material) It seems these belts suffer more from chemical and mechanical degradation rather than mechanical fatigue because we usually reach practically two orders of magnitude above the 10^7 value, and their bending radius on the engine is much larger than what the specification calls for. So yes, I clearly agree with you concerning the arbitrary approach, or should we call this a nasty commercial approach or even extortion of one's savings? I would see the oil change and type of driving tracking to evaluate the achieved acidity/alteration of the oil, as long as someone tells the computer the type of oil used; but a normal citizen doesn't need this.
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Replying to: caribou1 (Dec 03, 2008 8:16 am) See page 7: http://www.brad.ac.uk/acad/msceqi/EPSRC/downloads/timing_belt.pdf
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Replying to: siberia (Dec 08, 2008 3:03 am) The symptom of this ageing is a loss of plasticity due to cross reticulation (cracking) of the belt. When the belt looses part of it's original material (substrate) performance it is rapidly affected by mechanical and chemical aggressions. Temperature and UVs (a, b, c) play the same role in this case. I would look towards an addition of Silicon and Silica. Silicon resists quite well to radiation (X + Gamma rays) and Silica resists well to wear (tire application). The "Discussion and Conclusions" (P8) of the article you refer to converge well with the cross reticulation approach. This is typical of composite materials 
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Replying to: sthoge (Nov 06, 2008 12:16 pm) I have another issue. I had the starscan dianog on my Jeep a week ago. One of the codes that came back was an underpowered turbo. I asked if perhaps a clogged fuel filter might cause the code, they said it was possible. so I replaced the fuel filter. The Jeep ran better immediately; however, once I got about 15 miles down the road (running about 70mph w/ cruise control on), I would lose ppower going over overepasses: I had the cruise set  70mph and the jeep slowed down to 65mph -- normally, I would hit these overpasses w/ no lose in power. I can turn the Jeep off, wait about 5 miniutes and and hit the gas and the Jeep is quick and responsive, but after 15 or 20 miles 70 or 75mph is the best I can do. I push on the gas pedal, but I can get no increase in speed. My question is: is there anything that could be causing this besides a turbo that might be on its last leg? Would trash in the fuel line or injector cause this problem? I would like to try the "cheap" fixes first before invewsting $1,200 for a new turbo. |
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Replying to: jek443 (Dec 13, 2008 5:55 pm) If there is no black smoke, then you have to look for the boost pressure sensor, leaks on the fuel line fittings, loose air mass flow meter next to the air filter box. Is your fuel tank well vented? The turbo vanes are driven by a pneumatic (vacuum) signal. There is a small filter behind the air filter box that lets air back into the vanes actuating cylinder. When this filter is clogged, the turbo vanes don't respond correctly. Usually the turbo lasts longer than the vehicle, but I'm sure there's more money to make by changing the turbo.
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| We recently purchased an 05 Liberty CRD and really like the way it handles and it fits our desire to off road. After having a jeep dealer check it out completely ( on the computer) it has had all of the recalls taken care of and it does not have any warning codes that come up. As soon as we got it home we noticed a slight rubbing noise that comes from underneath. It sounds like a metal-to-metal noise similar to a dragging disk brake, not severe but just enough to be audible. I played around with the transfer case shift lever and shifted from 2W to 4PT and back again and it seemed to go away for a day. Then it came back again today. Has anyone had this same experience? I am concerned that it is doing some damage. This Jeep was towed behind an RV for awhile before we purchased it. | |
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I haven't tracked this forum for quite some time. I have a problem which I am hoping may have been solved by another Jeep Liberty diesel owner. I do not drive my Jeep every day. In fact, it often sits for a week before I take it out. I am lucky in that my employer provides me with a truck which I take to work. At the end of the week when I have personal time and can take the Jeep for a trip, I have found the battery to be low and there is not enough charge left in the battery to crank the Jeep over. Has anyone else had this problem and have you discovered what was draining the battery? I have replaced the original battery with the largest battery that I can find and also keep this replacement battery on a battery maintainer which puts a constant low trickle charge through it. Glad to see this forum is still in existence..
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Replying to: willysjeep (Dec 14, 2008 8:39 pm) You will notice there is always current drawn from the battery when you re connect the ground lug: this produces sparks 
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Replying to: willysjeep (Dec 14, 2008 8:39 pm) What has worked for me is to remove the keys from the ignition, that is take them right out, when not using the vehicle. |
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Replying to: jek443 (Dec 13, 2008 5:55 pm) If it is stuck open it will cause a power loss. Also check the turbo hoses, you might have a loose one.
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