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SUVs Jeep Liberty and Jeep Liberty Diesel Jeep Liberty Diesel
10697 messages, Last post on Nov 27, 2009 at 12:02 PM
You are in the Jeep Liberty and Jeep Liberty Diesel Forum. Your Hosts are steve_ & tidester
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Replying to: bcnail (Nov 25, 2008 3:41 pm) You can easily test the transfer case shifter with the engine turned off. On flat ground, put the transmission in 'Park' then manipulate the transfer case shifter into all positions. To help shifting, you can either move the Jeep using one foot on the ground (if you're tall enough) or someone can help you from outside the vehicle. |
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Replying to: bcnail (Nov 25, 2008 3:41 pm) When I go into drive I sometimes hear a clunk as it shifts. Works most of the time. |
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Replying to: caribou1 (Nov 24, 2008 2:19 am) I don't know many people who take time to understand what's going on  I can not tell whether this is a veiled insult or a weak compliment so I take it as a veiled compliment.  I’m not willing to accept an argument that someone who accelerates hard all the time vs. someone who accelerates leisurely puts the same load on their timing belt especially with the firmer shifts that occur under high power. I agree that (belt) temperature is mostly defined by water temperature but my Scanguage indicates a range of 35 F coolant operating temperature between winter and summer weather and I don’t see the range in temps that would exist between, say, Canada and Arizona. I’m willing to wave away the original component quality argument as it applies to the Liberty ball joints and the cheesy mechanism used in the power windows and accept that initial quality of the timing belt is excellent since VM Motori may have made that decision. However, given the shelf life issue of “new” tires and understanding that timing belts are made of somewhat different materials than tires, I would personally not buy a timing belt off the shelf that I knew was 10 years old unless it was the only one available. I actually do not drive my CRD much in the city, but consider a hypothetical CRD that has my daily commute that almost never exits the city. My Scanguage average speed in the city is around 15 mph. Now consider my actual CRD that is almost never driven in the city. My weighted Scanguage average speed is around 50 mph including some suburban driving. At 100k miles the city CRD hypothetically has around 6,700 hours on the timing belt and the highway CRD has around 2,000 hours on the timing belt. The highway CRD belt has the additional advantage of less time spent idling and suffering the severe impulse torque of the 4 cylinder diesel and the average rpm (arguably) may not be much different between the two CRDs. So, 100k mile timing belt change based on some assumed mix that fits most drivers seems a bit arbitrary, yes? Is this not why some sophisticated vehicles keep track of their own oil changes (but for different criteria)?
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Replying to: bcnail (Nov 25, 2008 3:41 pm) The internal shift mechanism in the CRD transfer case is spring loaded. This allows the control lever to be moved to a new position and the shift to occur later when the parts are in alignment and not under any load. This is why you need to shift between forward and reverse, or shift to neutral or just let up on the pedal when moving with the wheel straight ahead for the shift to occur. |
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Replying to: siberia (Dec 03, 2008 3:06 am) - Industrial timing belts are designed to operate between -30C and +80C. - Most flat belts have a continuous wire core of steel or glass fiber spooled side to side across the width of the pulley on one layer only. By design, such a product should be able to survive 10,000,000 oscillations under full load at maximum temperature, given a bending radius of ~10 times the wire diameter. http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Fatigue_(material) It seems these belts suffer more from chemical and mechanical degradation rather than mechanical fatigue because we usually reach practically two orders of magnitude above the 10^7 value, and their bending radius on the engine is much larger than what the specification calls for. So yes, I clearly agree with you concerning the arbitrary approach, or should we call this a nasty commercial approach or even extortion of one's savings? I would see the oil change and type of driving tracking to evaluate the achieved acidity/alteration of the oil, as long as someone tells the computer the type of oil used; but a normal citizen doesn't need this.
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Replying to: caribou1 (Dec 03, 2008 8:16 am) See page 7: http://www.brad.ac.uk/acad/msceqi/EPSRC/downloads/timing_belt.pdf
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Replying to: siberia (Dec 08, 2008 3:03 am) The symptom of this ageing is a loss of plasticity due to cross reticulation (cracking) of the belt. When the belt looses part of it's original material (substrate) performance it is rapidly affected by mechanical and chemical aggressions. Temperature and UVs (a, b, c) play the same role in this case. I would look towards an addition of Silicon and Silica. Silicon resists quite well to radiation (X + Gamma rays) and Silica resists well to wear (tire application). The "Discussion and Conclusions" (P8) of the article you refer to converge well with the cross reticulation approach. This is typical of composite materials 
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Replying to: sthoge (Nov 06, 2008 12:16 pm) I have another issue. I had the starscan dianog on my Jeep a week ago. One of the codes that came back was an underpowered turbo. I asked if perhaps a clogged fuel filter might cause the code, they said it was possible. so I replaced the fuel filter. The Jeep ran better immediately; however, once I got about 15 miles down the road (running about 70mph w/ cruise control on), I would lose ppower going over overepasses: I had the cruise set  70mph and the jeep slowed down to 65mph -- normally, I would hit these overpasses w/ no lose in power. I can turn the Jeep off, wait about 5 miniutes and and hit the gas and the Jeep is quick and responsive, but after 15 or 20 miles 70 or 75mph is the best I can do. I push on the gas pedal, but I can get no increase in speed. My question is: is there anything that could be causing this besides a turbo that might be on its last leg? Would trash in the fuel line or injector cause this problem? I would like to try the "cheap" fixes first before invewsting $1,200 for a new turbo. |
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Replying to: jek443 (Dec 13, 2008 5:55 pm) If there is no black smoke, then you have to look for the boost pressure sensor, leaks on the fuel line fittings, loose air mass flow meter next to the air filter box. Is your fuel tank well vented? The turbo vanes are driven by a pneumatic (vacuum) signal. There is a small filter behind the air filter box that lets air back into the vanes actuating cylinder. When this filter is clogged, the turbo vanes don't respond correctly. Usually the turbo lasts longer than the vehicle, but I'm sure there's more money to make by changing the turbo.
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| We recently purchased an 05 Liberty CRD and really like the way it handles and it fits our desire to off road. After having a jeep dealer check it out completely ( on the computer) it has had all of the recalls taken care of and it does not have any warning codes that come up. As soon as we got it home we noticed a slight rubbing noise that comes from underneath. It sounds like a metal-to-metal noise similar to a dragging disk brake, not severe but just enough to be audible. I played around with the transfer case shift lever and shifted from 2W to 4PT and back again and it seemed to go away for a day. Then it came back again today. Has anyone had this same experience? I am concerned that it is doing some damage. This Jeep was towed behind an RV for awhile before we purchased it. | |
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