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SUVs Jeep Liberty and Jeep Liberty Diesel Jeep Liberty Diesel
10698 messages, Last post on Nov 30, 2009 at 5:16 PM
You are in the Jeep Liberty and Jeep Liberty Diesel Forum. Your Hosts are steve_ & tidester
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Replying to: mdamick (Nov 20, 2008 2:35 pm)
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Replying to: farout (Nov 21, 2008 12:32 pm) Nice to see you post again. I see you are enjoying your Pacifica. My CRD is doing reasonably well. The weak link is the torque converter. If it fails again, it gets an aftermarket (Suncoast) TC, a trans kit and that should be the end of transmission issues. Frankly, I am happy that I have hung onto my CRD. It has been very reliable and the dealer I have been using has been fabulous. Their tech has taught me a few tricks to help maintain my CRD properly. As for the cost of diesel, I last paid $2.559 cash. Fuel economy has remained quite good with mixed city highway at 23 MPG and straight highway between 29 - 31 MPG. In spite of the higher fuel cost, the CRD is significantly cheaper to drive than the gas counterpart. In January, my wife and I will be driving to Florida with the CRD. Her 1998 Chrysler Concorde with 2.7 L V-6 gets 28 MPG on the road but she finds the CRD safer and more comfortable. The CRD also has better pulling power at high speeds than the Chrysler. |
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Replying to: siberia (Nov 21, 2008 8:03 pm) I think we have common conditions in the case of the timing belt: - load cannot change significantly because camshafts acceleration is limited by the ECU (limitation of the acceleration value) and the effort to turn the water pump is negligible, - temperature is defined by the thermostat, - outdoor aging is generally related to UV exposure and material fatigue (total bends/folds in a given environment). The belt is protected from UV light, but the engine temperature creates the stable condition for deterioration. - original component quality is usually excellent. I don't know many people who take time to understand what's going on 
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My 2005 CRD has nearly 49,000 miles. Last night I put the transfer case into full time 4wheel drive. Today when I shifted out of full time to 2wheel drive it refused to go beyond part time 4 wheel drive. I push the lever all the way down but the dash display says "part time" and the car drives as if it is in part time. I have played around with the lever but it still will not go into 2 wheel drive. I have never had this happen before.  Any ideas?
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When placing the transmission into or out of 4 wheal {I do this for all changed} stop on an incline so the Liberty can roll back when placed in nutria. Let it roll back a couple of feet then place transmission into or out of gear. Finding this has made mine work every time. I hope it works for YOUALL! 
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Replying to: bcnail (Nov 25, 2008 3:41 pm) You can easily test the transfer case shifter with the engine turned off. On flat ground, put the transmission in 'Park' then manipulate the transfer case shifter into all positions. To help shifting, you can either move the Jeep using one foot on the ground (if you're tall enough) or someone can help you from outside the vehicle. |
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Replying to: bcnail (Nov 25, 2008 3:41 pm) When I go into drive I sometimes hear a clunk as it shifts. Works most of the time. |
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Replying to: caribou1 (Nov 24, 2008 2:19 am) I don't know many people who take time to understand what's going on I can not tell whether this is a veiled insult or a weak compliment so I take it as a veiled compliment.  I’m not willing to accept an argument that someone who accelerates hard all the time vs. someone who accelerates leisurely puts the same load on their timing belt especially with the firmer shifts that occur under high power. I agree that (belt) temperature is mostly defined by water temperature but my Scanguage indicates a range of 35 F coolant operating temperature between winter and summer weather and I don’t see the range in temps that would exist between, say, Canada and Arizona. I’m willing to wave away the original component quality argument as it applies to the Liberty ball joints and the cheesy mechanism used in the power windows and accept that initial quality of the timing belt is excellent since VM Motori may have made that decision. However, given the shelf life issue of “new” tires and understanding that timing belts are made of somewhat different materials than tires, I would personally not buy a timing belt off the shelf that I knew was 10 years old unless it was the only one available. I actually do not drive my CRD much in the city, but consider a hypothetical CRD that has my daily commute that almost never exits the city. My Scanguage average speed in the city is around 15 mph. Now consider my actual CRD that is almost never driven in the city. My weighted Scanguage average speed is around 50 mph including some suburban driving. At 100k miles the city CRD hypothetically has around 6,700 hours on the timing belt and the highway CRD has around 2,000 hours on the timing belt. The highway CRD belt has the additional advantage of less time spent idling and suffering the severe impulse torque of the 4 cylinder diesel and the average rpm (arguably) may not be much different between the two CRDs. So, 100k mile timing belt change based on some assumed mix that fits most drivers seems a bit arbitrary, yes? Is this not why some sophisticated vehicles keep track of their own oil changes (but for different criteria)?
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Replying to: bcnail (Nov 25, 2008 3:41 pm) The internal shift mechanism in the CRD transfer case is spring loaded. This allows the control lever to be moved to a new position and the shift to occur later when the parts are in alignment and not under any load. This is why you need to shift between forward and reverse, or shift to neutral or just let up on the pedal when moving with the wheel straight ahead for the shift to occur. |
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Replying to: siberia (Dec 03, 2008 3:06 am) - Industrial timing belts are designed to operate between -30C and +80C. - Most flat belts have a continuous wire core of steel or glass fiber spooled side to side across the width of the pulley on one layer only. By design, such a product should be able to survive 10,000,000 oscillations under full load at maximum temperature, given a bending radius of ~10 times the wire diameter. http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Fatigue_(material) It seems these belts suffer more from chemical and mechanical degradation rather than mechanical fatigue because we usually reach practically two orders of magnitude above the 10^7 value, and their bending radius on the engine is much larger than what the specification calls for. So yes, I clearly agree with you concerning the arbitrary approach, or should we call this a nasty commercial approach or even extortion of one's savings? I would see the oil change and type of driving tracking to evaluate the achieved acidity/alteration of the oil, as long as someone tells the computer the type of oil used; but a normal citizen doesn't need this.
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