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Jeep Liberty Diesel

10698 messages,  Last post on Nov 30, 2009 at 5:16 PM

You are in the Jeep Liberty and Jeep Liberty Diesel Forum. Your Hosts are steve_ & tidester

What is this discussion about? Jeep Liberty, Biodiesel, Diesel, SUV


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#10286 of 10698
Re: Timing Belt Replacement [caribou1] by mdamick
Nov 21, 2008 (1:10 pm)
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Replying to: caribou1 (Nov 21, 2008 1:48 am)

Our book says 100000 mi.
#10287 of 10698
Re: Timing Belt Replacement [mdamick] by caribou1
Nov 21, 2008 (1:23 pm)
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Replying to: mdamick (Nov 21, 2008 1:10 pm)

Ours may have been translated by someone who doesn't know what "mi" stands for
#10288 of 10698
Re: Timing Belt Replacement [fust] by siberia
Nov 21, 2008 (7:40 pm)
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Replying to: fust (Nov 20, 2008 1:32 pm)

It is standard procedure on VW TDIs to change the belts, idlers, belt tensioner, water pump and bolts with every timing belt change. Complete kits can be bought for around $300 that include everything needed. Depending on the mechanic (independent or dealership) the cost ranges from, say, $600 to $1500. The argument is that most water pumps will run 100k miles but many will not run 200k miles. $2,000 for timing belt, water pump, etc replacement may be some what reasonable for a CRD.
 
A fiend owns a Honda CRV and has spent $1,500 for each timing belt / water pump change so some gas engines that need timing belt changes are not cheap. I think a lot of gas cars are just driven without concern for timing belt changes and if the belt doesn't break fine. If the belt does break the car is approaching it's useful life anyway and the response of the owner to the mechanic is, What's a timing belt and why did it destroy my engine?
 
The expectation of diesel owners is that the engines will run much longer so the timing belts (should) get better attention.
#10289 of 10698
Re: Timing Belt Replacement [mdamick] by siberia
Nov 21, 2008 (8:03 pm)
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Replying to: mdamick (Nov 20, 2008 2:35 pm)

It would be nice to know what is the mean and standard deviation of timing belt failures found during testing. Timing belts don't really fail due to miles (exactly), they fail due to load, hours, age, contamination, operating temperature, original quality and the like.
#10290 of 10698
Re: Timing Belt Replacement [farout] by winter2
Nov 23, 2008 (6:14 pm)
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Replying to: farout (Nov 21, 2008 12:32 pm)

Hello Farout,
 
Nice to see you post again. I see you are enjoying your Pacifica.
 
My CRD is doing reasonably well. The weak link is the torque converter. If it fails again, it gets an aftermarket (Suncoast) TC, a trans kit and that should be the end of transmission issues.
 
Frankly, I am happy that I have hung onto my CRD. It has been very reliable and the dealer I have been using has been fabulous. Their tech has taught me a few tricks to help maintain my CRD properly.
 
As for the cost of diesel, I last paid $2.559 cash. Fuel economy has remained quite good with mixed city highway at 23 MPG and straight highway between 29 - 31 MPG. In spite of the higher fuel cost, the CRD is significantly cheaper to drive than the gas counterpart.
 
In January, my wife and I will be driving to Florida with the CRD. Her 1998 Chrysler Concorde with 2.7 L V-6 gets 28 MPG on the road but she finds the CRD safer and more comfortable. The CRD also has better pulling power at high speeds than the Chrysler.
#10291 of 10698
Re: Timing Belt Replacement [siberia] by caribou1
Nov 24, 2008 (2:19 am)
Reply

Replying to: siberia (Nov 21, 2008 8:03 pm)

Hi siberia,
I think we have common conditions in the case of the timing belt:
- load cannot change significantly because camshafts acceleration is limited by the ECU (limitation of the acceleration value) and the effort to turn the water pump is negligible,
- temperature is defined by the thermostat,
- outdoor aging is generally related to UV exposure and material fatigue (total bends/folds in a given environment). The belt is protected from UV light, but the engine temperature creates the stable condition for deterioration.
- original component quality is usually excellent.
 
I don't know many people who take time to understand what's going on
#10292 of 10698
transfer case sticks by bcnail
Nov 25, 2008 (3:41 pm)
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My 2005 CRD has nearly 49,000 miles. Last night I put the transfer case into full time 4wheel drive. Today when I shifted out of full time to 2wheel drive it refused to go beyond part time 4 wheel drive. I push the lever all the way down but the dash display says "part time" and the car drives as if it is in part time. I have played around with the lever but it still will not go into 2 wheel drive. I have never had this happen before. Any ideas?
#10293 of 10698
johnhayworth by johnhayworth
Nov 25, 2008 (5:09 pm)
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When placing the transmission into or out of 4 wheal {I do this for all changed} stop on an incline so the Liberty can roll back when placed in nutria. Let it roll back a couple of feet then place transmission into or out of gear. Finding this has made mine work every time. I hope it works for YOUALL!
#10294 of 10698
Re: transfer case sticks [bcnail] by caribou1
Nov 26, 2008 (1:00 am)
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Replying to: bcnail (Nov 25, 2008 3:41 pm)

I just go into reverse for a short period of time then back into 'Drive'. This allows the transmission to unlatch the transfer case differential when it stays stuck in 'Part Time' mode.
You can easily test the transfer case shifter with the engine turned off. On flat ground, put the transmission in 'Park' then manipulate the transfer case shifter into all positions. To help shifting, you can either move the Jeep using one foot on the ground (if you're tall enough) or someone can help you from outside the vehicle.
#10295 of 10698
Re: transfer case sticks [bcnail] by mdamick
Nov 27, 2008 (9:57 am)
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Replying to: bcnail (Nov 25, 2008 3:41 pm)

While driving I shift into neutral and then shift the transfer case.
When I go into drive I sometimes hear a clunk as it shifts.
Works most of the time.

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