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SUVs Jeep Liberty and Jeep Liberty Diesel Jeep Liberty Diesel
10698 messages, Last post on Nov 30, 2009 at 5:16 PM
You are in the Jeep Liberty and Jeep Liberty Diesel Forum. Your Hosts are steve_ & tidester
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Replying to: caribou1 (Sep 20, 2008 11:11 pm) Was not diesel fuel. The right rear of the engine was where the oil was with almost nothing on the left side. Did not smell like diesel fuel but like engine oil. It is black like the engine oil. On top of that, I have a new issue. The trans slips when it engages in top gear. You get the sensation of going over rumble strips for about one-half second. The CRD is off to the doctor tomorrow. I am going to check the color of the trans fluid and see if any codes have been thrown.
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Replying to: winter2 (Sep 21, 2008 1:51 pm) The best way to destroy the torque converter is to drive long distances at 60 mph in 5th gear. This is what the local JEEP technician told me a long time ago when I asked to have the 163HP chip instead of the one I have... Local driving speeds are well above and below the shift point. In this case (only) manual shifting is better.
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Replying to: caribou1 (Sep 22, 2008 6:33 am) In late 2006, Chrysler detuned the engine to save the torque converter in what is known as the "F37" recall. The recall took away about six percent of the torque in the hope it would save the torque converter from being eaten alive by the engine torque.. For long distances, I generally drive between 62 MPH and 65 MPH and the engine does not feel like it is lugging. The quality of the shift now seems to have changed and is working it's way down to lower gears. I am getting firmer shifts lower down but the shift at 48 MPH and the shift at 57 MPH both have that "rumble strip" sensation but the 57 MPH shift has become a two part shift with a split second delay before full engagement. |
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Replying to: winter2 (Sep 20, 2008 5:08 pm) When you empty the engine oil put only six quarts do that because allways oil stay in the engine and if you put the right amount , you will be over fill. If you take the ccvc watch the O rings, they are very bad to install, be aware the if you do not put the O rings well, it wil leak oil. If you think that the CCVC is bad buy a new one, they are not that expensive. and allways use a ProVent. also check your Turbo.
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Replying to: nescosmo (Sep 22, 2008 1:43 pm) I have always put in six full quarts and twelve ounces from another and have never seen the engine overfilled. The level on the dipstick is always between the "MIN" and "MAX'. As to the CCVC, I believe it did fail. I have been driving for the past day or so with the oil filler cap loose and no oil has appeared around the CCVC. As to adding a Provent device, maybe later on. First I need to have the trans evaluated to see what is going on in there. One question; is the CCVC available as an aftermarket part or is it still a dealer only part? |
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Replying to: winter2 (Sep 20, 2008 5:08 pm) Nescosmo....
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Replying to: nescosmo (Sep 22, 2008 9:48 pm)
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The dealer called me today and told me of two issues. 1. The oil leak was caused by a blown rear main seal. How the oil got on the top of the engine I will never know. It leaked around the CCVC. 2. Torque converter is toast and probably the front pump too. Had the F37 done in December of 2006. They replaced the TC at that time. I am going to speak with the tech tomorrow PM. and see what else he has to say. I would like to retain that nice firm shift if possible. |
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Replying to: winter2 (Sep 23, 2008 4:15 pm) Could you try to explain what "toast" means? Is it excessive wear of the clutch plates or destruction of the central element within the TC? You had given the name of a company proposing a reinforced component that could handle the extra torque. Even if you change this component, the lockup clutch plates remain the same  I have to admit, 5 years ago my local Jeep tech understood well the latent problem of automatic shifting under high torque.
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Replying to: winter2 (Sep 23, 2008 4:18 am)
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