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SUVs Jeep Liberty and Jeep Liberty Diesel Jeep Liberty Diesel
10698 messages, Last post on Nov 30, 2009 at 5:16 PM
You are in the Jeep Liberty and Jeep Liberty Diesel Forum. Your Hosts are steve_ & tidester
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Replying to: carlottagood (Sep 16, 2008 2:49 am) As suggested, find a nice lonely, long, straight piece of highway. Make sure you have driven your CRD at least ten miles so that the engine is thoroughly warmed up. While at a complete stop, lockout the overdrive (button on side of shift lever. There will be light on the dashboard). Then nail the gas to the floor and hold it there until you get to to 3200 RPM (speed > 60 MPH) and hold there for a few seconds. Come to a complete stop and repeat the process several times until you do not get large clouds of soot. By the time all or most of the carbon has been removed, you should get little or no visible smoke. You will need to use detergents and cetane improvers regularly along with flogging the engine several times per week. Also, check your air filter. |
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Will a 02 Jeep Liberty Over Head Console work in a 2006 Diesel? Is the wiring harness in place even though the vehicle was never so equiped. thanks dusty |
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On Friday afternoon when I was performing an oil change on my CRD, I noticed a bunch of black oil on the right rear quarter of the engine block, the rear one-third of the oil pan, and the front of the transmission pan. I checked the top of the engine and found oil leaking from around the CCVC on top of the valve cover. I cleaned everything off with solvent (Amsoil Power Foam) and ran the engine for a few minutes and nothing more seemed to leak out. Today I drove the Jeep and after a bit started to smell burned oil. I got the car home and there was oil leaking from the back of the engine and not the CCVC. I again cleaned everything. I ran ran the engine and opened the oil filler, I put my hand over it and noticed positive pressure. I was expecting a vacuum. Also, I pulled the hose off of the CCVC and it was spitting out small droplets of oil. My first suspicion is that the CCVC has failed. I will try to remove it tomorrow and see if it is cleanable. As for the oil, I am wondering if the rear main seal has failed or if this stuff I did not get with the first cleaning.
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Replying to: winter2 (Sep 20, 2008 5:08 pm) I also found "oily" stains on the ground that I interpretated as an oil leak. Liquid was dripping from the two bolts located under the engine, near the transmission. All levels were OK (coolant, transmission, power steering, engine oil). I put a white piece of wood under the truck to identify the color of the "oil" and left it overnight. It turned out to be diesel fuel that had washed the block on its way down.
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Replying to: caribou1 (Sep 20, 2008 11:11 pm) Was not diesel fuel. The right rear of the engine was where the oil was with almost nothing on the left side. Did not smell like diesel fuel but like engine oil. It is black like the engine oil. On top of that, I have a new issue. The trans slips when it engages in top gear. You get the sensation of going over rumble strips for about one-half second. The CRD is off to the doctor tomorrow. I am going to check the color of the trans fluid and see if any codes have been thrown.
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Replying to: winter2 (Sep 21, 2008 1:51 pm) The best way to destroy the torque converter is to drive long distances at 60 mph in 5th gear. This is what the local JEEP technician told me a long time ago when I asked to have the 163HP chip instead of the one I have... Local driving speeds are well above and below the shift point. In this case (only) manual shifting is better.
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Replying to: caribou1 (Sep 22, 2008 6:33 am) In late 2006, Chrysler detuned the engine to save the torque converter in what is known as the "F37" recall. The recall took away about six percent of the torque in the hope it would save the torque converter from being eaten alive by the engine torque.. For long distances, I generally drive between 62 MPH and 65 MPH and the engine does not feel like it is lugging. The quality of the shift now seems to have changed and is working it's way down to lower gears. I am getting firmer shifts lower down but the shift at 48 MPH and the shift at 57 MPH both have that "rumble strip" sensation but the 57 MPH shift has become a two part shift with a split second delay before full engagement. |
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Replying to: winter2 (Sep 20, 2008 5:08 pm) When you empty the engine oil put only six quarts do that because allways oil stay in the engine and if you put the right amount , you will be over fill. If you take the ccvc watch the O rings, they are very bad to install, be aware the if you do not put the O rings well, it wil leak oil. If you think that the CCVC is bad buy a new one, they are not that expensive. and allways use a ProVent. also check your Turbo.
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Replying to: nescosmo (Sep 22, 2008 1:43 pm) I have always put in six full quarts and twelve ounces from another and have never seen the engine overfilled. The level on the dipstick is always between the "MIN" and "MAX'. As to the CCVC, I believe it did fail. I have been driving for the past day or so with the oil filler cap loose and no oil has appeared around the CCVC. As to adding a Provent device, maybe later on. First I need to have the trans evaluated to see what is going on in there. One question; is the CCVC available as an aftermarket part or is it still a dealer only part? |
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Replying to: winter2 (Sep 20, 2008 5:08 pm) Nescosmo....
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