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SUVs Jeep Liberty and Jeep Liberty Diesel Jeep Liberty Diesel
10697 messages, Last post on Nov 27, 2009 at 12:02 PM
You are in the Jeep Liberty and Jeep Liberty Diesel Forum. Your Hosts are steve_ & tidester
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Replying to: zeller (Sep 16, 2008 3:57 am) I had the same problem and I left it squeak for a long time until a friend begged me to stop it  It was only the serpentine belt that was not routed properly: it went around (outside) the alternator & idler & A/C pulleys instead of wrapping around the inner side of the idler pulley. Look at the routing picture above the radiator and you will rapidly understand. Fix: Take a 15mm ratchet (that has a long lever) and tension the spring of the tensioning pulley located between the crankshaft and power steering pulleys. You will get dirty rubbing agains the fan shroud  This takes less than one minute  I may have inverted the A/C and power steering pulleys, I don't remember which is which. |
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Replying to: carlottagood (Sep 16, 2008 2:49 am) nescosmo..... |
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Replying to: zeller (Sep 16, 2008 3:57 am) If you go back to the dealer tell them to replaced the pulley not the alternator, you need that any way if your have high mileage, then see what happen. Note: If you buy the tensioner. pulleys they are all the same, one of them is different but the pulley is the same. that one cost more that the others so do not do it, buy the regular one. Good luck. nescosmo..... |
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Replying to: nescosmo (Sep 14, 2008 9:57 pm) The smoke I get when I blow the nose lasts for a second or two and after a second consecutive application is gone. I attribute a good part of the smoke problem to the poor quality diesel swill sold in this country and secondly to stop and go driving that many of us do. The addition of detergents and cetane improver help significantly. The use of biodiesel helps even more. |
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Replying to: carlottagood (Sep 16, 2008 2:49 am) As suggested, find a nice lonely, long, straight piece of highway. Make sure you have driven your CRD at least ten miles so that the engine is thoroughly warmed up. While at a complete stop, lockout the overdrive (button on side of shift lever. There will be light on the dashboard). Then nail the gas to the floor and hold it there until you get to to 3200 RPM (speed > 60 MPH) and hold there for a few seconds. Come to a complete stop and repeat the process several times until you do not get large clouds of soot. By the time all or most of the carbon has been removed, you should get little or no visible smoke. You will need to use detergents and cetane improvers regularly along with flogging the engine several times per week. Also, check your air filter. |
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Will a 02 Jeep Liberty Over Head Console work in a 2006 Diesel? Is the wiring harness in place even though the vehicle was never so equiped. thanks dusty |
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On Friday afternoon when I was performing an oil change on my CRD, I noticed a bunch of black oil on the right rear quarter of the engine block, the rear one-third of the oil pan, and the front of the transmission pan. I checked the top of the engine and found oil leaking from around the CCVC on top of the valve cover. I cleaned everything off with solvent (Amsoil Power Foam) and ran the engine for a few minutes and nothing more seemed to leak out. Today I drove the Jeep and after a bit started to smell burned oil. I got the car home and there was oil leaking from the back of the engine and not the CCVC. I again cleaned everything. I ran ran the engine and opened the oil filler, I put my hand over it and noticed positive pressure. I was expecting a vacuum. Also, I pulled the hose off of the CCVC and it was spitting out small droplets of oil. My first suspicion is that the CCVC has failed. I will try to remove it tomorrow and see if it is cleanable. As for the oil, I am wondering if the rear main seal has failed or if this stuff I did not get with the first cleaning.
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Replying to: winter2 (Sep 20, 2008 5:08 pm) I also found "oily" stains on the ground that I interpretated as an oil leak. Liquid was dripping from the two bolts located under the engine, near the transmission. All levels were OK (coolant, transmission, power steering, engine oil). I put a white piece of wood under the truck to identify the color of the "oil" and left it overnight. It turned out to be diesel fuel that had washed the block on its way down.
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Replying to: caribou1 (Sep 20, 2008 11:11 pm) Was not diesel fuel. The right rear of the engine was where the oil was with almost nothing on the left side. Did not smell like diesel fuel but like engine oil. It is black like the engine oil. On top of that, I have a new issue. The trans slips when it engages in top gear. You get the sensation of going over rumble strips for about one-half second. The CRD is off to the doctor tomorrow. I am going to check the color of the trans fluid and see if any codes have been thrown.
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Replying to: winter2 (Sep 21, 2008 1:51 pm) The best way to destroy the torque converter is to drive long distances at 60 mph in 5th gear. This is what the local JEEP technician told me a long time ago when I asked to have the 163HP chip instead of the one I have... Local driving speeds are well above and below the shift point. In this case (only) manual shifting is better.
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