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Idle or Stalling Problems - All Vehicles

446 messages,  Last post on Jul 28, 2009 at 4:58 PM

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#397 of 446 Re: stumped [mybonnie] by michaelm5 Oct 18, 2007 (12:42 pm)
Replying to: mybonnie (Mar 18, 2003 5:17 pm) i have a 92 buick regal with a 3.8 that had the same problems and i replaced all the parts that were said to be the problem including the computer and all the sensors ,except for one. And that was my crank shaft sensor, and wala ,that was my problem. A code did not come up, cause it had shorted out and it read normal. That's the reason i spend so much money on everything else. About a thousand dollars worth of parts i didnt need, because it only cost me under thirty dollers to replace. hope this helped.
#398 of 446 93 Infiniti J30 STALLING by bcornstars03 Dec 02, 2007 (9:45 am)
I have a 93 Infiniti J30 with 180,000 miles. Always ran great, Ive kept it up nicely. Now this week it has died on me about 6 times. I am noticing patterns now that go like this...   I will be driving and car runs great as usual, then my interior dash lights/radio lights/clock light all dim down anytime I hit my breaks. Sometimes my gas pedal becomes very unresponsive and car will stutter when I hit gas pedal. Then it will either pull out of its "funk" or will just shut off. My check engine lights, ABS light, Seat belt light, Air bag lights all come on in dash. Then the car takes anywhere from 1-6 times of turning over until it will start. My starter is good and has never been an issue.   Does ANYONE have anything useful I should know???   Thank you!! Replies to this message: 0patience (Dec 06, 2007 10:29 pm)
#399 of 446 Re: 93 Infiniti J30 STALLING [bcornstars03] by 0patience Dec 06, 2007 (10:29 pm)
Replying to: bcornstars03 (Dec 02, 2007 9:45 am) It almost sounds as if you have a ground or charging system problem. This is purely a guess, but going on what you say.   I would have the battery load tested and check to see if the charging system is working correctly.   The other thing I would do, mostly as preventive maintenance anyway is to make sure the battery connections are clean and tight. Check the ground connections and look for any corrosion or looseness.   If that all checks good, then it is time to see what the computer diagnostics tells you. Have it scanned, Autozone, Schucks or one of those usually offers free diagnostic scanning. Don't buy anything until you are sure.
#400 of 446 sadness with 95 probe by munkeystomp Dec 10, 2007 (2:48 pm)
hey how's it going, i have a 95 probe(4 banger) and i'm not too car savvy/ i was reading an older post and i need some help because it's not idling correctly. originally it was just a rough idle at red lights, then the problem grew worse...   now it goes in and out of running correctly, when it warms up the car stalls when i'm SLOWING DOWN past 25 or so or sitting at light. sometimes running the heat or a/c keeps it running. sometimes it doesn't stall at all(rarely). overall it's freaking me out and the prices of sensors and such pretty high/   so i'm just seeing if anybody of great knowledge has answers/ Replies to this message: 0patience (Dec 11, 2007 9:25 pm) pmakki (Dec 11, 2007 11:20 pm)
#401 of 446 Re: sadness with 95 probe [munkeystomp] by 0patience Dec 11, 2007 (9:25 pm)
Replying to: munkeystomp (Dec 10, 2007 2:48 pm) Some common causes of those types of symptoms are a vacuum leak (possibly a cracked or broken vacuum hose), an Idle Air Controller (IAC) malfunctioning, problem with the fuel filter (plugged or partially plugged) or possibly a partially plugged catalytic converter.   I would check for a vacuum leak. Easy enough to check. Visually inspect all of the vacuum hoses for any loose, disconnected or cracked vacuum hoses and replace the ones that are bad. If no improvement is seen, get a can of carb cleaner and start the engine. Be extremely careful working around a running engine. With the engine running when the condition of the rough idle occurs, spray the carb cleaner at the base of the intake, around the throttle body and at the throttle body shaft. Wear eye protection, as the fan could possibly come on and blow the carb cleaner around, which has a tendancy to end up in your face.   If there is a vacuum leak, the idle will change. If the idle changes, stop. Let the idle return to how it was, then spray a small burst into the area where the idle changed. If the idle changes again, you have located the vacuum leak. Replies to this message: pmakki (Dec 11, 2007 11:20 pm)
#402 of 446 Re: sadness with 95 probe [0patience] by pmakki Dec 11, 2007 (11:20 pm)
Replying to: 0patience (Dec 11, 2007 9:25 pm) sounds like a intake manifold leak. Get a spray bottle and fill it with water and spray around the intake manifold gasket while running. If it steadies out, you found the problem. These cars are notorius for it
#403 of 446 1999 ford taurus by bido76 Dec 27, 2007 (6:06 am)
check engine light on and when at stop sign or light car turns off
#404 of 446 Re: 2000 Maxima rough idle on warm startup only [dmaljunk] by frustratedlady Jan 08, 2008 (7:41 pm)
Replying to: dmaljunk (Dec 30, 2006 11:10 pm) I am new to posting and hope I am reaching dmaljunk or someone that can really help me. A post from you in 12/2005 addressed cold start problems on nissan maxima. Dmaljunk, Isee you had problem fixed. Is it still fixed or did you encounter more problems later?   My car (2001 Maxima) started dying once foot taken off accelerator. Had MAF and TPS changed and now constant dying during cold starts. RPM gage stopped working after new parts installed and I believe code P0505 coming up ( idle control sensor) . Car started perfectly until parts were replaced. Now, I need to give constant gas and take foot of gas slowly for it to remain running then it is when cold, then no problems restarting unless it sits. Extremely poor gas mileage too. Started off w/ 375-380 per fill up and now 300-325 per fill up.   Alternator and battery replaced a month later, so additional problems. Battery and brake light remain on until car warms up, hear squeaching at start and sometimes lights dim and battery is not charging, then suddenly you hear a click and everything is bright and remains that way until car is cold again. Do I need a new alternator belt?.   This car has costed me so much $$$$$$$$. I hate to sell it and it is a simple problem to fix. Female desperate to have my car become more reliable, but cannot afford to continue to go to dealership, especially since they don't know what to do except replace parts and problems still not fixed. I see cold start problems are common in Maximas.
#405 of 446 2003 sunfire idling unusually low, stalling by mypoorsunfire Jan 30, 2008 (7:48 pm)
I could really use some help. My poor Sunfire is doing some really weird things lately.   About a month ago, I was trying to find a parking spot when my car dropped below 500rpm, then stalled, with only the oil and battery lights coming on. I was able to start the car up again with no problems. The weather had recently become cold, so I put some gas line anti-freeze in my tank, and for a while, the problem went away.   About a week after that, while I was driving, my car would not drop below 2000rpm. Even as I applied the brake, the car would not drop below 2000rpm, when it finally did, it then dropped below 500rpm, stalled out, and the oil and battery light came on. I started the car up again, and it ran fine, no problems. I used an OBDII reader to see what, if any, codes came up, but there was no problem codes.   Two days ago, my city was hit by a cold snap that brought the temperature below -36 degrees Celsius, and my car did the same thing again. I put gas line anti-freeze in the tank again, and that seemed to help until today. On the way home from work, my car did the same thing, first it would not drop below 2000rpm, when it did, it would drop below 500rpm, stall, and the oil and battery light came on. This time I put some fuel injector cleaner in my tank.   Now my car idles at 500rpm, and my instrument panel lights and heater seem to loose a small amount of power at 500rpm. Sometimes my car will jump up to 1000rpm by itself, then slowly go back to 500rpm, but now it doesn't stall.   My car, up until that first problem, has never idled below 1000rpm. I have no idea what's going on, but I could really use some help.   Thanks! Replies to this message: autotec51 (Feb 07, 2008 8:28 pm)
#406 of 446 95 Suburban idle misses by mckenzkj Feb 05, 2008 (6:38 pm)
My 95 5.7L misses in gear at idle (Auto trans). Off idle is fine no problems. I checked the resistance of the IAC and it is within the tolerances specified in my repair manual. Jumpered the ADL connection and flashed for codes. No codes other than the code 12 handshake. Two weeks prior to this problem starting I had to remove the intake manifold to remove a very corroded and busted heater hose connection at the rear of the manifold. At that time I also replaced, plugs,wires,cap and rotor. Engine ran fine until the idle miss appeared. Any advice is greatly appreciated.

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