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Pontiac GTO
Pontiac GTO

4348 messages, Last post on Nov 08, 2009 at 9:33 AM
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Replying to: xtranaut (Oct 10, 2009 1:19 pm) My 2004 M6 GTO had a lifetime 14 MPG but I drove it like a bat out of hell (part of the reason why I had to give it up now that I'm a Daddy) but I could get mid 20s on the highway easily at 75+ mile speeds. I was putting in regular too.
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Replying to: cracovian (Oct 13, 2009 6:07 am) I absolutely love this car as much as I did the vette and the interior is even better. I put a Pioneer Nav with about every bell and whistle you can get. It fit right in the Blauplunkt radio slot and looks like factory. My car is an A4 and runs strong. I have been a bit worried since I read about the tire shredding issue with the way they put wider tires on the car that rub the struts. I have the original tires and wheels on the car..17s..although I don't much like them. I don't know what I will replace them with yet but for sure, something quieter than these BFGs. They sound like truck tires. It doesn't help that my car didn't come undercoated to deaden some of the road noise. I am also in Houston where everything is concrete so you note every little variance in the grading as you drive. I found a chip made by VOLO that seems to be the only possible legit performance-fuel economy chip that rally does anything, aside of a programmer. http://yhst-19807630266082.stores.yahoo.net/vp12-performance-ch12.html The VOLO says it retails for 149.95 but sells for 89.95 at the intro discount. I am thinking about getting one after I see what a few guys that bought them think. I also noticed that before I bought the car, the dealer changed the oil and 1000 miles later, it looks to be a full quarter low. Is this normal and what kind of oil do you guys run that you find best for this car? The car doesn't smoke at all and there isn't a drop on my garage floor so ??? I am seeing more people saying that a Group 3 like Castrol GTX is the best for this car instead of synthetic. Many are also suggesting to ad a product called AUTO-RX to the oil at change and run for 3,000 miles then change and ad a small amt again. The product is ester based so isn't corrosive but cleans all the engine parts and rings. Since my car wasn't driven that much over the almost five years the original owner had it and it was a woman, I think it could be possible that the car built up sludge from just sitting or not being run like an LS1 should be. Your thoughts about any and all of this? |
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Replying to: cracovian (Oct 13, 2009 6:07 am) I have an K&N in my airbox but don't have cold air....and by itself, cold air doesn't help anything. Then I would need to change the exhaust and can't get away with anything less than about $800... so there is an easy 1200. dollars to get maybe a few MPG more. Now that the economy is tanked, I give a lot of thought on everything i do and what kind of a return it's going to give me on my mone. I figure I could make that CAI-EXHAUST money back in 18 months but its always easier to pay for the gas as you go than plunk out 1200 and not even be able to get excited! ha.
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Replying to: xtranaut (Oct 13, 2009 7:17 am) |
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xtranaut, i wouldn't try any mods/chips/programming without reading all about others who have tried the same things: ls2gto web site. imho your mpg can only get worse if you alter the factory programming! A4 GTOs are expected to get less mpg than M6 models, so that might be the main factor - same thing that caused the gasguzzler tax for the A4 cars... Re oil: GM sent a letter to all owners warning them the car could burn a quart every 1k miles especially if driver does lots of high-rpm coast-downs. It also warns to check the oil every time one fills the gas tank. I don't! I change oil every 10k or 15k miles. Never had to add a quart over those 10k or 15k.
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Replying to: elias (Oct 14, 2009 6:57 am) |
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Dear Fellow GTO owners, If you replaced your strut bushing and/or front radius arm bushing, please read my post on the strut bushing thread. Thanks, RR70 |
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