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Sedans Mazda6 Mazda6 Maintenance and Repair
2590 messages, Last post on Dec 07, 2009 at 6:18 PM
You are in the Mazda6 Forum. Your Hosts are pat & karens
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Replying to: sedmund (Jun 07, 2009 4:11 pm) From my 2007 manual: Follow Schedule 1 if the vehicle is operated mainly where none of the following conditions apply. If any do apply, follow Schedule 2 (Canada and Puerto Rico residents follow Schedule 2). Repeated short-distance driving Driving in dusty conditions Driving with extended use of brakes Driving in areas where salt or other corrosive materials are being used Driving on rough or muddy roads Extended periods of idling or low-speed operation Driving for long periods in cold temperatures or extremely humid climates They have not changed their vague wording, have they? I'm following schedule 2 until the warranty ends, then I will go to 6 mo/5000 miles for oil changes. This is (or was) Ford's normal schedule for the same engine and I do fit under Ford's much clearer definition of "normal".
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Replying to: jeffyscott (Jun 08, 2009 5:03 am) |
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Well I took my car for an inspection at the dealership. Mechanic listened to noise, acknowldged there is a noise, but said it is normal, or not excessive enough to warrant opening up the engine to check it out. While I might agree that I do not want them to open up the engine, getting noises when accelerating with such a low mileage on the car is ridiculous. The question is, what are my options now? Get a second opinion from an independent mechanic? Would Mazda replace a knocking/tapping engine under warranty even though it is only noisy and runs fine otherwise? Or does it have to show a real malfunction before they do anything? Any help or insight is appreciated. |
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| I have an 09 Mazda6i that has an intermittent rattle (more of a slapping noise) that seems to be coming from between the glovebox and the firewall. It almost always does this for a just a second after the A/C is turned on for the first time of the day, but I've also noticed it with the A/C and fan off. On occasions that it happens with the A/C and fan off, the noise only happens with the transmission in park or drive (with the car stationary), and stops immediately as soon as I shift out of park or press on the gas. Due to the intermittent nature of the noise, of course it hasn't been reproducible when I take the car in for service. I know this is not the normal soft thud of an A/C compressor coming on. Anyone else have this noise or have ideas as to what it could be? I've probed around a little in the firewall area visible with the hood up, but can't find anything loose. | |
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Replying to: vfontjr (May 27, 2009 10:58 am) Just went over 15,000 miles. Bought the car last October. |
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Hi All- Ok, so I am officially done with my '07 M6 Wagon. Only 15k miles.... As I have mentioned I bought certified in late '07 with low mileage-------- in the last 6 months I have had the following pattern happen which no one can figure out: 1) Late November- turn car on---------- all engine and system lights come on and stay on. Turn off engine- Turn on Engine again and CEL comes on and stays on for about a day then goes off. Bring the car to dealer- they pull codes and replace the Cat. pipe. 2) Early March- same thing happens again. Bring to dealer, they pull codes. This time its the Transmission Control Module and the wiring harness 3) This past week; same thing. Bring to dealer. They havent told me what (if any codes) they pulled- but they did open a case with the Mazda Tech line as this is the 3rd time this has happened- they had them try a few things but havent explained yet what ( I am going to call tomorrow)- they gave me the car back and told me they are waiting for further instructions from Mazda Tech and that they are getting the Mazda Regional Rep involved. I contacted Mazda myself and started a case with them- not sure if they will do anything; but would love for them to take this car back (they wont I am sure). I've got 2 more months of full warranty before just 6 year powertrain warranty kicks in. Also complained to the GM at Crystal Mazda in Greenbrook NJ- their service dept has been dilligent and top notch to this point and hope they can pull through. This on top of the leaky CV boots and axle replacements last September.... Any thoughts? I think I may trade this baby for a certified Subaru Outback or Forrester or Nissan Rogue Thanks, -Lg2207
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Replying to: lg2207 (Jun 23, 2009 5:40 pm) |
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Well I finally solved the mystery of the engine tapping sound after the car warms up when accelerating at low rpm (1200 rpm). Since this noise started happening immediately after my first oil change, I replaced the dealer installed oil with a quality oil (Valvoline 5W20), and behold, my engine is back to smooth even after it warms up, no more noticable tapping at low RPM. My theory is the crappy bulk oil being used by the dealerships (I tried 2 dealers) shears or thins out at high temp, and it is viscosity changes and is unable to provide the same lubrication to the upper engine (valvetrain). Since I do not get those noises when the oil is cold, that is the only explanation I can find. The valvoline oil seems to behave consistently well even after the car has warmed up. Now the question, what do I do now with this information. Mazda mechanic said Mazda would not honor warranty if I am doing my own oil changes. I am thinking of using their oil simply as an engine flush, and then draining it the moment I get back from their service shop and replace it with a quality oil. However should I be worried about any long term effects to my car since I already drove it about 10,000 kilometers on their crappy oil. Is there a way for me to prove easily their oil is bad such as an analysis by a third party that can give me written confirmation that the oil they are using is no good. Then I can take them to small claims court or something.
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Replying to: jkobty2 (Jun 24, 2009 10:14 am) As far as the oil is concerned, I've never heard it being an issue in terms of the tapping sound (unless there's no oil in the engine at all). Then again, my dealer uses Valvoline... 
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Our 2005 M6 seems to have the heat stuck on all the time. Now that it is hot, the AC can't keep up. It runs full blast and doesn't really cool the car. The strange thing I notice is that when it is cool outside, (50-60F) and I hit the auto climate button, then press the AC button to turn off the AC, the air coming out of the vents is warm, much warmer that ambient. I took it back for this last year, and the techs went over the AC system, as it wasn't completely full, and recharged the system. I pointed out this same heat thing at that time, they didn't address it, only played with the AC system. I still think some valve is stuck so that heat is always being added to ambient air, even when not needed. Anyone seen anything like this? Or know how ambient air is routed thru the heater?
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