Last post on Sep 29, 2013 at 5:14 AM
You are in the Mazda6
What is this discussion about?
Mazda MAZDA6, Hatchback, Sedan, Wagon
Go to NHTSA to file a safety complaint.
Or call Monday-Friday (8 am to 8 pm ET) (888) 327-4236 TTY: (800)424-9153
#1650 of 2861 Re: Mazda6 engine light? [zoom6zoom]
May 11, 2005 (8:40 am)
Since they replaced my fuel pump my keychain door lock button has a mind of it's own.Lights flash on 1 push, horn blows on second push. Then next day lights don't flash and horn doesn't blow.3rd day it works again. Had 2 dealer upgrades installed but this problem wasn't fixed yet. Doors always lock and unlock even if the lights don't flash or horn doesn't blow. Owned Mazda's since 1979,wife drives 1996 626 and daughter drives a Millenia currently. Never had a problem before with any of many Mazda's, some purchased new,some used and some off lease. Anyone want to buy a 2004 Pebble Ash Metallic Mazda 6,5 spd, Bose,Sunroof,black leather,sports package and I will even throw in 4 Blizzak 16 inch steel rim snow tires.
#1651 of 2861 Re: Mazda6 engine light? [zoom6zoom]
May 11, 2005 (11:34 am)
Let's try this again (my first reply was removed for mentioning another Web site that must remain unmentioned). I experienced a similar problem: CEL came on, but car ran fine. The dealer repleaced the throttlebody under warranty.
Schedule an appointment at your Mazda dealer for a CEL. When you fill out the paperwork, include a copy of the info below. Good luck.
These CEL codes indicate a failure in the part of the electronic throttlebody. Either through the failure of the electronics, or the sensor, the throttlebody no longer functions as designed. This results in a Check Engine Light with one of the following codes P2135, P2101, and whose appearance indicates that the entire throttlebody assembly must be replaced.
The electronic throttle actuator can't be serviced itself, and thus the entire assembly must be replaced. Below are the codes the scanner will pick up and display.
Originally this also included P2110. That CEL has been upgraded to a full Technical Service Bulletin, and is solved through a PCM update. The other two CEL's above appear to still require replacement of the throttlebody assembly.
DTC P2135 [AJ]
TP sensor No.1/No.2 voltage correlation
The PCM compares the TP sensor No.1 signal value and TP sensor No.2 signal value. If the signal correlation for both is out of specification, the PCM determines that the TP sensor has a malfunction.
Diagnostic support note
This is a continuous monitor (CCM).
MIL illuminates if PCM detects the above malfunction condition during first drive cycle.
PENDING CODE is available if PCM detects the above malfunction condition.
FREEZE FRAME DATA is available.
DTC is stored in the PCM memory.
TP sensor malfunction
DTC P2101 [L3]
Throttle actuator circuit range/performance
If the PCM detects any of the following conditions, PCM determines that throttle circuit has malfunction.
Default throttle angle that PCM memorized and the throttle angle with ET control relay OFF is not much.
Voltage from ET control relay is too high or too low
PCM detects big voltage difference between from ET control relay and from main relay
PCM internal malfunction
Diagnostic support note
This is a continuous monitor.
MIL illuminates if PCM detects the above malfunction conditions in two consecutive drive cycles or in one drive cycle while DTC for the same malfunction has been stored in PCM.
PENDING CODE is available if PCM detects the above malfunction condition during first drive cycle.
FREEZE FRAME DATA is available.
DTC is stored in PCM memory.
ET control relay and related circuit malfunction
Main relay and related circuit malfunction
Throttle position sensor No.1 and related circuit malfunction
Throttle position sensor No.2 and related circuit malfunction
#1652 of 2861 Re: Rough downshift in '04 6i ATX, from fourth to first [hatch5speedman]
May 12, 2005 (4:45 pm)
My Mazda is a 2003, 6cyl automatic, 27,000 miles, and like you, hatch5speedman, when I first start up in the morning and put it in drive, it surges forward like a race horse out of the gate. Luckily, my foot is firmly on the brake because I'm coming out of the garage "blind", at least or a second or two. I chalk that up to a very brief idle problem. But that's not what I understand to be shift-shock....
Shift shock is when you start up from a light (somewhat lead-footed) and the engine is reving like crazy and, suddenly, it surges forward violently with a sound like you've been hit from behind. Since it's been doing this, I've learned to accelerate a bit more gently. Somewhere in this forum, someone gave instructions on what to tell the dealer but I dislike all the dealers in my area. I mentioned the shift-shock to a service advisor once and he said "I've never heard of the 6's doing that" and I didn't want to push it. The car runs great, except for that. I've never had any other real problems. So I don't want the dealer to mess up the good that I've got - call me cynical.
#1653 of 2861 Re: Rough downshift in '04 6i ATX, from fourth to first [deedee14]
May 12, 2005 (6:25 pm)
The surge you experience when you first start up in the morning is due to a fast cold idle and is normal. The engine runs faster to shorten warm-up time and reduce emissions during warm-up. Most cars do this. It's not a problem with a MT.
AT "shift shock" is just a harsh or hard shift between gears, not from a dead stop in 1st first gear. The behavior you describe from a dead stop isn't "shift shock" and isn't normal, assuming that this is all happening in 1st gear and not during to the 1-2 shift. It sounds more like low trans fluid or some other trans problem. Some cars will do this a little when the trans is cold. If you try a start from a dead stop using your AT in manual mode in 1st gear and get this behavior, you've got a problem.
May 18, 2005 (11:15 am)
I want to rotate my tires this weekend. I went to check the size of the wheel nuts, and discovered that my 3/4" socket was too small. What size socket do I need for the wheel nuts? Do I need a thin-wall socket? (I have the 17" OEMs)
Any help would be appreciated...
#1655 of 2861 Re: Rough downshift in '04 6i ATX, from fourth to first [mazda6s]
May 18, 2005 (3:30 pm)
The car is moving forward, though slowly, when the "shift shock" occurs (wouldn't that be from 1-2?) and it seems like it's trying to shift into 2nd. It's always when the car is fully warmed up, never when it's cold. If it were a trans problem, I wouldn't be able to stop it from happening by slower acceleration, would I?
#1657 of 2861 Re: Rough downshift in '04 6i ATX, from fourth to first [deedee14]
May 18, 2005 (9:01 pm)
If it's a 1-2 shift you will see the RPMs drop on the tachometer.
#1658 of 2861 Re: Rotating Tires [mz6greyghost]
May 19, 2005 (9:21 am)
I would buy a torque wrench and the correct sockets for lug nuts. You definitely don't want to over torque the nuts and possibly warp the rotors. If you have a Harbor Freight tools in your area, you can get it all for $25.
#1659 of 2861 Re: clutch [audia8q]
May 19, 2005 (11:13 am)
Rich, Edmonds still has no detail posted on this TSB. Do you know if it applies to a certain VIN range? My car has the clutch shudder on humid days.
FWIW, I also had the brake moan when turning into a parking spot. Dealer found the brake pad shims were rubbing on the rotors. Replaced with new pads under warranty. Problem solved. '03 with 22.5K miles.