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Wagons Suzuki Wagons Suzuki Aerio Maintenance and Repair
423 messages, Last post on Oct 02, 2009 at 11:54 AM
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My aerio won't turn on. I took it to a local mechanic who replaced the fuel pump and then told me the computer was bad so they replaced that. It worked for one day when the exact same thing has happened again. Has anyone experienced this or have an idea of what the cause may be I would greatly appreciate your help.
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Replying to: 2002aeriosedan (Jun 27, 2007 2:06 pm) In the interim check the fuel pump fuse;and the wires going to the pump as one may be shorting out to ground along the frame. |
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Replying to: carthell (Apr 22, 2007 8:42 pm) I have also had a real problem getting parts for my 2003 Aerio SX. I have had to over pay at the dealer several times. |
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I bought my Aerio SX (AWD w/ Automatic) new when the 2004s came out. I admit I loved it for a while. I had several trips to the dealer for little nuisances exhaust rattles and CD player not giving my CDs back. The first replacement CD player skipped so much I had them replace that one. After they did that work the clock light would go out and on when it wanted to. I also had the exhaust rattles fixed again on all of these trips. With less than 20K miles the radiator sprung a big leak. it left us stranded. Inconvenient but the 7 year / 100k mile warranty will cover it it. Wrong! I had it towed to my local earlier. They refused to cover it and said that it must have been a rock or something. They wanted $650 to fix it. I said that was a lot for a radiator and they told me the part alone was $500 and the dealer was the only place to get one. Fortunately, they were wrong and I found it online for under $200 sipped next day. I replaced it in their parking lot. When 36k miles were up I took it in for exhaust rattles, a/c did not seem cold and a few body clips. They said that they fixed the rattles and all of the little stuff, nothing wrong with the A/C. The exhaust still rattled and some of the clips were still gone. Back again they said it was fixed. Still not fixed. I finally gave up. A few months latter I started having a problem with the heating system. It would blow hot air on the driver's side and cold air on the passenger side. The colder it was outside the colder it would be on the passenger side. The hot side could not keep up. The dealer wanted $400 to fix it. They claimed it was a mouse nest. I did not think that was the cause but I thought they would fix the problem while they were working on it. The had my car for 10 working days (no loaner for me)and did not fix the problem. They needed it back when a few parts came in. When I got it back It still had the same problem and now I could not select a temperature or shift from defroster to heat. Eventually the parts came in. I took the car back and they charged me for the parts and labor. Of course they did not tell me that it still did not work. On a cold day the right side would blow 30°F colder than the left. Several mot trips and back and forth they never got it fixed and I never got my money back. Summer came and I let it go. I should have sold the car but I did not. The car started revving fast at idle. Since I did not have confidence in the local dealer I took it to the next closed dealer on 80 miles. I new that it was some thing to do with the IAC but since it was still under the 7 year / 100k mile warranty let them take care of it. turned out not to be covered because the IAC was fine but the ground wire was burnt. They took pity on me and only charged $100 to splice in a little piece of wire. I still can't figure out what a ground could short to to cause the problem. It does not run with any other wires. One night driving home the car started to make a noise coming from the final drive on the front (seemed to be at the wheel speed). I cold not see anything wrong I drove it hoping the car would die so I would know what needed to be fixed. After a few days (probably related) I would start to get the check engine light and the transmission would go int a limp home mode. 2500 RPM in second gear. A key restart would usually fix it for a while. The code said that it was a transmission feed back sensor error. After a test drive I the dealer said they would replace the transmission and it would take care of the noise and the error code. 3 weeks latter when the part came in i took it back and asked them to look at the heat while they had it for the transmission. When I got the car back the noise was still there, the error code still comes up periodically, an the heat still does not work. That was $300. I called the Suzuki NA line for help again. I did not want to bring that up before because this is long enough as is. The were insulting and no help yet again. The regional representative is the all mighty power and no one else at Suzuki can help. An A/C line in the engine compartment blew and now I don't have any heat / cooling / transmission part of the time. Any suggestions would be appreciated.
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Replying to: dkarasin (Jul 03, 2007 9:27 am) The fan blade broke at the mounting. Of course it did not break clean, so the fan rubbed on the radiator and caused a leak. I heard the noise but could not find the source until it was too late. The car has 74k mile on it. I have never seen this before have others heard of this happening. It looks like the only place to get the fan blade is at the dealer for $56 plus $180 for the radiator online. |
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Replying to: pml27 (Jun 10, 2004 9:54 am) |
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Replying to: zeebo (Mar 10, 2006 12:25 pm) |
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Replying to: cknsls (Jan 05, 2003 4:09 pm) |
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Replying to: davidd5 (May 05, 2003 6:20 pm) Watch out for the crankshaft sensor that fails without warning. Driving along the road starting to apply the gas and then no power. the oil light comes on. The car will not restart. IT took the mechanic 7 plus hours to figure out what the problem was. 10 plus hours to do the whole job at $85.00 an hour. $750.00 for the part. Watch out Trade it in on domestic car. I am. |
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Replying to: mesx (Jul 05, 2006 5:55 am) |
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