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Car Safety, Tires, Engine, Transmission, Sedan
#115 of 121 re: Break-in
May 07, 2003 (7:42 pm)
My last car went 236k with this break-in:
1st oil change 1k
All oil changes at 3k - DIY oil changes with dino-oil is just too cheap not to replace at 3k, imo.
No cruise till 500 miles. (hit that tomorrow on my '03, whew!) Of course a filter change at all oil changes.
Moderate acceleration and keep it under 70 mph for the first 500k.
Just got 31 mpg on my first tank of gas, not bad!(4 cyl/auto)
#116 of 121 Continuing from a different thread....
May 08, 2003 (6:11 am)
This arguement is mechanically sound to me, and it is the recommended break-in for an airplane engine.
Perhaps the car engines are run really, really hard for a very short duration at the factory, and upon delivery we're supposed to finish the break-in by running them a bit more calmly. That's as good of a hypothesis as I can come up with.
#117 of 121 Break-in secrets
Jun 13, 2003 (3:41 am)
To sum up Motoman's break-in recommendations, which he says brings less combustion gas blow-by and better piston ring seat; translating into more HP, less oil consumption and longer engine life:
1. Only after engine is fully warmed up! ... during the *first 20 miles* run it hard (meaning over 4k rpm to put a load on the engine) using gears 2-4 with short bursts of hard acceleration and deceleration. After this, continue to vary the RPMs for 500 miles. He explains how this works on his site and says that breaking your engine in "easy" is the wrong way to go for proper ring seating.
2. Change the original oil *way* sooner than the manual says, like after 20-50 miles.
3. Don't go to synthetic until at least 1,500 miles. Synthetic is so slippery, it will arrest the break-in process. (I think 0patience's suggestion to wait until 5,000 miles is even better.)
Though primarily referring to racing bikes, Motoman says the same advice applies to all four-stroke engines, including cars.
Motoman continues the discussion about this method in more recent editions of his newsletter (about a third of the way down): http://www.mototuneusa.com/future_horsepower.htm ... (he could use a little help w/ web design) ... and here (about a third down): http://www.mototuneusa.com/the_factory_superbike.htm
Anyway, that's the claim. Some long-term tests on car engines (backed up w/ oil analysis) would go a long way toward making a believer out of me.
But I'll have to say, the conditions these race bikes endure are brutal to the extreme and simulate in one racing season the engine wear a normal driver wouldn't see until many, many thousands of miles. So, it does offer a compelling proving grounds for his claims.
Jun 23, 2003 (8:18 pm)
That is rediculous to void the warrenty if they switch to synthetic! I will remember to stay away from your engines. Gm porcshe bmw all come with mobile 1 synthetic in them! I called cadillac to ask them what oil came in my cts and they said mobile 1. Also I can use any oil that meets or exceeds the standards set. Synthetic exceeds those standards. Even cadillac will not void my warranty for using synthetic.
Jun 23, 2003 (9:15 pm)
I will remember to stay away from your engines.
Glad to hear that. If it makes you happy, then more power to you.
You know nothing about me or who I am and I don't know you from Adam. If you don't like what I say, don't read it.
Personally, I could care less. Every person who builds engines have their own set of rules.
Wrong or right, they are their rules, not yours.
I'm not going to argue with you here about how I chose or chose not to do business, if you don't like it, don't do business with me, I could care less. In fact with your attitude, I would just as soon you didn't do business with me.
I don't build engines to make money, so if folks don't like my rules, then they can go somewhere else. I have that luxury.
It is one of those opinion arguments that anyone can make. If you prefer to use synthetic then by all means, use it.
When you have half the mechanics who say you may not want to use it until 5,000 miles, some say 3,000 and the other half that say it isn't a problem, make up your own mind.
To tell me that something I choose to do is ridiculous [check the spelling] is an insult to me, which I find offensive.
No one said that synthetics didn't meet the standards, just that in my opinion and experience, motors with synthetic install early on had problems getting the rings to seat, because the synthetics does its job too well in that case.
#120 of 121 I'll back up 0patience on this, for sure -
Jun 24, 2003 (4:19 am)
Cadillac and Chevrolet use Mobil 1 from the get go as a marketing tool. They also have infinitely deep pockets compared to an independent shop owner.
All three (Cad, Chevy and shop owner) have to warranty their work. All three have the right, by Federal law, to set their own parameters for maintenance on a component that they warrantee.
0patience is certainly right about synthetics not allowing an engine to properly break in. Cad and Chevy take the chance because Mobil 1 actually sells cars for them.
Mobil 1 doesn't do a thing to support a shop owner.
#121 of 121 Break-in and Mobil 1 Syn - my thoughts (IMHO)
Jun 24, 2003 (8:18 am)
According to Mobil oil you can replace engine oil at any time with synthetic. They claim it is factory fill for Volvo, Porsche, VIPER, Corvette, Mercedes Benz. I changed my brand new lil pick-up
at 1000 miles with Mobil 1 5W-30 SuperSYN. Dipstick was full prior to change. Already 1700 miles later, dipstick still full. This indicates to me the rings have properly set.
If you recently re-built your engine, ie. Bore out cylinders, there may be cross hatch hone marks. I would break in with DINO oil until the rings seat. Say approx. 1500 miles. That means uneven driving, heavy stop and go. Otherwise you may end up with an oil burner. Been there, done that.
Regards to all
circa early 60's muscle car era.