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Honda CR-V Prices Paid and Buying Experience

9474 messages, Last post on Dec 07, 2009 at 7:14 PM
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Replying to: hi321 (Jul 05, 2006 8:03 am) I am looking into a credit union...I have already checked out a bank and their interest rates are pretty high. My credit it really good...I checked it out online last night. I have no idea about my income to debt ratio...my credit report says my score isn't as high as it could be b/c I don't HAVE enough debt. I'm going to do a little more research...and wait a few weeks before making any decisions. You can apply online for Honda finance. Go to the corporate site, AHFC and fill out the application. This way you know for sure if you qualify or not for Honda financing. Honda does not have tiers, you are either qualified, or you are not. They don't jack up your rate if you have less then perfect credit, they just tell you "no" Then dealers usually find local lenders, or go to a loan shark. To qualify for Honda finance you have to have FICO of 700 or more, and high income to debt ratio. Honda owners have the highest median income when compared to other makes, so they can be picky. But that allows them to offer rates that are usually lower than credit unions or anyone else, because they don't have to take on risks. Median household income year ended april 2005 1. Honda — $87,907 2. Nissan — $82,618 3. DaimlerChrysler — $81,735 4. Toyota — $80,746 5. Ford* — $80,059 6. GM — $75,888 *Excludes Aston Martin Source: J.D. Power and Associates 2005 light-truck sales mix 1. Honda — 42.7% 2. Toyota — 43.0% 3. Nissan — 46.8% 4. GM — 59.9% 5. DaimlerChrysler — 65.3% 6. Ford — 66.6% Source: Automotive News Data Center CAFE Corporate Average Fuel Economy, 2005 Model year 1. Honda — 25.1 mpg 2. Toyota — 23.5 mpg 3. Nissan — 21.7 mpg 4. GM — 20.3 mpg 5. DaimlerChrysler — 19.8 mpg 6. Ford* — 19.5 mpg *Includes Mazda Source: EPA Green image 1. Toyota 2. Honda 3. Ford 4. Nissan 5. GM 6. DaimlerChrysler Source: Automotive News analysis Overall rankings 1. Honda — 23 pts 2. Toyota — 19 pts 3. Nissan — 16 pts 4. GM — 9 pts 4. DaimlerChrysler — 9 pts 5. Ford — 8 pts |
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Replying to: singlemomprice (Jul 06, 2006 2:55 am) You know the invoice of the vehicle, you decide what a fair profit is for the dealer. That's what you pay. Tax is a given, you pay it no matter what. Doesn't matter where you buy, state law will require you to pay the tax for the county where you live. Most will charge a DOC fee. It may vary from place to place, but no by much. That should be it. If they are adding anything else (e.g. advertising fee) it is a rip off. Just get the deal you want on the vehicle, the rest takes care of itself (with your diligence of course).
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Replying to: thereluctant (Jul 05, 2006 10:07 pm) |
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Replying to: drive62 (Jul 06, 2006 5:44 am) Dealers may try to stick it to you with other add on options. They agree with you on the vehicle price but then add things like a $300 doc fee (which shouldn't be much more than $50), overpriced fabric/paint protection, etc. Getting the OTD price gives you leverage when they try to play games after the fact. Yes, taxes will vary from state-to-state (none here in Oregon I always ask for the OTD price with a complete breakdown of the pricing. When they try to hit you for some worthless item that they already "installed" (paint protection for example), I will refuse to pay for it. Since it cost them virtually nothing, they will usually just throw it in rather than lose the sale. OTD prices are valuable in negotiations. When posting here on the forum they get a little convoluted. In reading prices on the forum I would prefer to read of the vehicle price only since taxes, etc. just cloud the actual pricing. My two cents
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Replying to: farleyk (Jul 05, 2006 6:24 pm) |
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Replying to: scegla (Jul 06, 2006 8:01 am) But reading your post I can say that we differ on purchasing tactics. I know the invoice price for the vehicle. I know how much profit I want to give the dealer. I know how much the sales tax is. I know how much the DOC fee is. That seems to cover it. You negotiate on a vehicle that may have stuff on it that you don't necessarily want or need (paint protection). I buy the vehicle I want equipped the way I want it. And if a dealer plays "games" as you imply is the reason you like to deal with OTD prices, I don't buy from them. Different strokes....
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Anyone got any recent prices? According to Edmunds, MSRP 22,145 Invoice 20,504 TMV 21,165 ("what others are paying") (above prices include destination charge) This gal got one for 19,375... (dest. included)... http://townhall-talk.edmunds.com/direct/view/.ef11a94/3111 I suggest that everyone post as much info about all the parts of their price package as possible, that will solve this question of what to post, just post it all. Are there any dealer incentives active at this time? The dealer noted that this model is made in both England and Japan. You can tell if a car is made in Japan if the VIN starts with a J. (1 is USA, somewhere there's a chart). |
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I contacted 5 dealers in the Northeast Philly area and within a few hours 2 offered these prices (destination fee included): Piazza: 19,504 Keenan: 19,655 Willis: Sloane: (earlier post reported 19,375) Conicelli: One problem, asked about Black side steps, was quoted full price of $674 ($461 plus installation). I'm going to have to try to drive a harder deal on that. Or is it easier to just find some 3rd party aftermarket running boards? |
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A few recent posts have been about dealer cash incentives for the CRV over the July 4th weekend, but I was looking on Edmunds.com and other car websites over the last weekend and found nothing. Can anyone tell me how they found out about these incentives? Thanks!
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Replying to: drive62 (Jul 06, 2006 9:19 am) Actually I will get as many dealers dealing against each other as possible. That's where the "extra" stuff can come into play. It is superfluous and I just ignore it. I ultimately get the car I want and at at least several hundreds under invoice. Like the dealers, I play games too-- after all, a game with only one player isn't as much fun. |
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