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Prices Paid: Buying & Leasing Experiences Honda CR-V Prices Paid and Buying Experience
9477 messages, Last post on Dec 08, 2009 at 8:20 PM
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In NJ its a buyers market. Invoice is very possible, almost easy. What I have been experiencing is trouble keeping the out the door price as low. From what I found out at the dealership to other day, if your credit score is above 720 you should be able to qualify for 3.9% APR. That is not last months 2.9% but a 1% difference is about an extra $350 on a $20,000 at 36 months which is not horrible. Ebill66, Try carsdirect.com if your local market is bad. I found it better to deal with the internet manager but when you only have one dealership in the area it might work out. About the accessories. Have you thought about installing some yourself? You can buy them online below suggested retail and they come with installation instructions. The mug guards attach with 2 screws, and the metal look trim comes as a peal off adhesive Basically I would only have them do the electrical work and everything else I would do somewhere else at a much lower install cost. The dealerships charge $40-$50 per hour in my area, which is clearly a rip off for something like snapping in roof racks. How many keys(remote and regular) did you guys get with your CR-V??? |
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Replying to: chiefjs (Apr 23, 2005 7:53 pm) CR shows the dealer cost of $23,078. That is a $23,836 invoice with a $758 dealer holdback. A 7% profit on the car would sell for $24,693, 6% $24,463. CR says a 4-8% profit is reasonable depending on the popularity and availability of the car. Now I want $4,243 worth of accessories (install not included), metal look trim, rear sensors, chrome sides steps, fender flares, fog lights, auto day/night mirror, etc. Anyone have any thought on how you figure the accessories into the deal? The Honda website shows an MSRP with these accessories at $30,018, but I am not sure if they mean "without installation." I figure a 7% profit with the accessories at $29,234, 6% at $28,960. Any thought on how I should approach this? I am thinking of just giving them the list of what I want and visiting several dealers just to see who gives the best price. Obviouisly you have not researched enough, or you would have stumbled into posts about online dealerships that sell accessories up to 50% off from retail prices. So, that $4,000 in accessories would cost you $2,000. Metal look trim can be had for under $150, cheesy but whatever floats your boat. Rear sensors, I assume you mean beack up sensors, any aftermarket will work, DIY price is under $200, Stereo/Alarm shop can probably do it for $300. Useless in my opinion. But OEM ones are $350 or so. Chrome side steps, the OEM ones are more decorative than functional. Side steps that you can step on, or running boards are $300 and an easy DIY. Fender flares -- can be had for under $300, kind of cheesy IMHO. If you want mud flaps, the two are already on, you just have to buy two more for under $40. Fog lights, the OEM ones even after discount are $200, and involve removal of the bumper. Although it is a DIY, aftermarket maybe a better option for lower cost, or HID's for the same cost. Day/night mirror is made by Gentex and distributed by MITO, and is not OEM Honda, I bought mine off ebay for $30. It is $99 on MITO site. You will need a CR-V bracket for $9.50. The OEM day/night mirror is $200. Look through the threads and you will find dealer info for regions. The sponsor of this site, HandA are in CA, Fair Honda is in CT, so is Majestic. College hills Honda is in MD. Hparts is in OK. |
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Replying to: dawner (Apr 20, 2005 1:07 pm) Sorry for the slow reply. I was out of town. I actually purchased the car during the lease. You can usually buy out a lease at anytime during the term (or at the very end). I called for the payoff amount, and found that the car was worth more than the payoff and taxes would cost. How much pleasure driving or non-commute driving do you do? If you live less than a mile from work, and don't drive much other than that, you should be fine on 12,000 miles per year. That's 1,000 miles per month. Driving to and from work should only take 40 miles per month, leaving you 960 miles for any other driving you might do. If you know that you will get bored with the vehicle, leasing may be the best option for you. You need to research leasing in general though because you have to negotiate the sales price of the vehicle when you negotiate the lease. The sales price will determine how much tax you pay every month and will determine at what price the depreciation starts (which will in turn factors into how much your residual will be at the end of the lease). Check out the leasing thread on Edmund's. You should also research how to negotiate a lease on other sites as well. Definitely DO NOT go in to negotiate a lease without being fully knowledgeable about how they work and how to negotiate one. Greer |
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Replying to: automatic (Apr 24, 2005 9:13 pm) I try to negotiate prices on the Internet as much as possible to avoid this type of situation (pushy salesman). It is so much easier to stand your ground at home with the Internet in front of you to do research and see what others are paying, invoice prices, etc. As many users have posted, you are not done after you negotiate your price on the Internet. Make that price is really what you pay, and watch out for hidden fees and gimmicks. I always ask for the the "out the door" price of the vehicle from the Internet price quote to include tax, tag, title, and ALL dealer fees. Most will give you this information and will be honest, but some will just use the Internet quote to get you down to the dealer and then the prices suddenly change. Just be leery, have information at your disposal, and do not sign anything if it does not feel right. |
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Replying to: ebill66 (Apr 23, 2005 7:10 pm)
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Replying to: automatic (Apr 25, 2005 11:36 am) A few of the dealers (like aforementioned Landmark Honda) used the Internet quote as a ploy to get me down to the dealer and then apply a high stress sales approach. I quickly walked out the door. To me, it was not even the cheapest price. It was the dealer who was the most honest, helpful, and direct. I am willing to put a couple hundred dollars back in the dealer's pocket if it means the whole buying experience will be honest and easy. I usually draw the line at $500 above invoice (depending on the vehicle, and current incentives, inventory, etc). |
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| I was quoted$ 20,200 for a crv lx 4wd.. in boston... is this a good price or can i do better?? any input is appreciated... | |
I bought a 05 CR-V EX this past weekend in Tacoma, WA for $22,650 including mudflaps and cargo tray. I was told by three other dealers in the area that if I could get it at that price, to go for it since they couldn't/wouldn't match it. So I did. How did I do for this region?
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Replying to: codester (Apr 26, 2005 11:33 am)
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Replying to: automatic (Apr 26, 2005 12:12 pm) |
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