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Honda CR-V Prices Paid and Buying Experience

9474 messages, Last post on Dec 07, 2009 at 7:14 PM
You are in the Prices Paid: Buying & Leasing Experiences Forum. Your Hosts are car_man & kyfdx
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Replying to: edmunds4mk25 (Apr 15, 2005 7:16 am) Lyle
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Replying to: lmoyer1 (Apr 16, 2005 2:58 am) Just got back from Houston with the 2005 Crv LX FWD (Blue). Delear stood by his word and sold the V for $20,200 (drive out). When he showed me the V, I asked him how many miles it had on it. He asked me to start it up, so my wife did and it has 2 miles on it! I've never seen a new V with so few miles. The sales guy also spent a hour in Houston traffic helping me drop off the rental car. Got to ride in a loaded 2006 Ridgeline - very nice. I can't pick out ANY thing to really complain about as far as the dealer is concerned. I'd recommend my sales guy. Lyle I sent you a personal message with the dealers details. Oh before I forget my crv is PTTR:( (pulling to the right). I did test drive the V for around 5 miles, but couldn't detect PTTR. However on my way back It definitely was noticeable on the higway. Any suggestions on how to deal with this. I noticed this only because I took both hands of the wheel, with a hand on the steering wheel, I couldn't notice it. that's all folks.
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Replying to: lmoyer1 (Apr 16, 2005 2:58 am) I can't seem to send you a private message, try to get in touch with me and I'll give you the sales guys name. best, -M |
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| I have an 05 EX 4WD that had a definite drift (i.e. I did not notice it until I took my hands off the wheel), but not what I'd call a "pull." It would drift out of a level lane in 5 seconds or so at freeway speeds. Dealer realigned all 4 wheels (some specs were out of tolerance) but drift still remained. Then they swapped the front tires and that fixed it. I am attributing the drift to "conicity" in one of the front tires. Tire Rack has a good writeup on their website about conicity. Sounds like you have a drift, as the PTTR folks sound as if they have to use some muscle on the wheel to keep the car tracking straight. Like you, I also did not notice the drift on my test drive...the steering wheel felt completely normal. | |
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Replying to: edmunds4mk25 (Apr 16, 2005 11:23 pm) |
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I bought an SE for invoice ($23,651) before the first of the year. My step-mother is looking for the same car now and I am trying to give her a hand with the process. Has anyone purchased one in Michigan in the last month-or-so? If yes, what did you pay? Thanks, Mike |
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I have been looking over this site for months and have haggled with a couple of dealers. One of them dropped out of the race and said if the other dealership could give me that price, then go there. So this is the LEASE quote 2005 CRV EX Black Manual 36 months-12K miles a year Total Cap Cost 21642.62 which includes the assignment fee of 595 which apparently is standard from the honda dealership. Money Factor 0.002350 Residual 13899.00 payments are 298.62 for 36 months Inception Fees(due at signing including first payment) 495.62 I live in NH and haven't seen much from there... Also I of course am still trying to haggle via email... Can dealers negotiate any with the miles alloted per year? I want 15K but don't want to pay much more. Thanks for any info regarding this.. |
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Replying to: dawner (Apr 19, 2005 3:13 pm) you should look at the Lease board also here at Edmunds to get some feedback. I can tell you that my payment is that and I purchased the V. good thing about purchase is that you can usually sell for more than you owe, therefore putting some money into your pocket for the next vehicle downpayment.
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Replying to: dawner (Apr 19, 2005 3:13 pm) The residual will be 2% of MSRP lower, if you go up to 15K mileage. (56% vs. 58%, I think) I don't remember the exact MSRP, but figure the residual to go down about $480, which will raise the payment by about $12/mo. + tax.. Well worth it, if you need those miles... regards, kyfdx |
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Replying to: dawner (Apr 19, 2005 3:13 pm) That looks like a pretty good lease deal. Something you might want to consider is the fact that you will have to keep up with all of the scheduled maintenance in order to be in compliance with the lease. If you 'think' you need more miles, definitely negotiate the lease for more miles. It's better to have some left over at the end of the lease than to pay like 15 cents per mile for every mile you are over the limit (it adds up really fast). Another interesting tidbit. I'm not saying that you will be in this situation, but there are instances where at the end of your lease, the car might actually be worth more than your payoff. This is more of a possibility with vehicles that hold their value well (like Hondas,Toyotas, and Lexus). You have to consider the market in which you live. I just paid off a lease on a Lexus IS-300 because I knew that I could get more for it than the payoff (and taxes). I was in a situation where even if I traded it into a dealership, I would make a little bit. As it turned out, I sold to a private party and managed to get $3500 out of the deal when all was said and done. And yes, I bought a new CR-V My advice is if you are planning on having the car long term, definitely just buy (consider the fact that most Hondas get 150K miles plus without too much trouble). If you only want it for the short term the lease isn't a bad deal. At the end of the lease, check to see what the vehicle is worth (market conditions as well as Kelley Blue Book), but don't enter into the lease assuming that you will be able to get any money out of the car in the end. Good luck. Greer
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