Last post on May 20, 2013 at 10:07 PM
You are in the Prices Paid - Buying & Leasing Experiences
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Honda CR-V, Wagon, SUV
#11790 of 12319 Re: 2012 CRV EX-L AWD - What Price? [warwara]
Dec 19, 2012 (7:35 pm)
I would then tell them you are going to other dealers. Contact Liberty, Executive and Lia Honda by email and spell out the deal clearly and tell them that you will come in and buy if they can meet that price. One of them should agree. If not wait a week. Close to the end of the month they will be more anxious to deal. I have a couple of other out of state dealers that would make this deal too.
You will not get the $500 off if you do not finance through Honda though. The rate was good for us (2.9%). Not sure what you can get in the credit union but you may want to reconsider. Good luck and be strong. This is your money not theirs. Jay
#11791 of 12319 Re: $500 Flex Cash [shyboy]
Dec 19, 2012 (7:37 pm)
Our Flex Cash was applied to our loan as a downpayment, not a first payment. Jay
#11792 of 12319 Re: $500 Flex Cash [jayct]
Dec 19, 2012 (7:41 pm)
I forgot to add that I have a coworker that did finance to get money back and then paid the loan off a month or two later. You need to check the loan conditions to see if there is a prepayment penalty or minimum length of loan payments. Jay
#11793 of 12319 Re: 2013 LX AWD $23000 [annanyc1]
Dec 19, 2012 (10:46 pm)
Is this your OTD price?
Shopping for a cr-v and really want to know the price. It is so hard to get any price lower these days.
#11794 of 12319 Re: 2013 CR-V LX AWD QUOTATION IN NJ [njcrv2]
Dec 20, 2012 (7:37 am)
Not everything is negotiable. The freight and taxes are not negotiable. Documentation fees (actually dealer profit) should actually be considered part of the selling price, not MSRP, of the vehicle. These fees should be negotiated to $0.
The key to getting a good price is for you, the buyer, to control the negotiations. You do that by understanding the dealer's cost which should be the base price you use to begin negotiations. It is an easy process.
The best method, IMHO, to develop a base price is to find the invoice price of the car (Edmunds), subtract the dealer holdback (available from Edmunds) and any incentive provided by the manufacturer to the dealer (available online) and further reduce that amount by any cash back to the buyer (you). That gives you not only a nice starting price for negotiations but, more importantly, the knowledge to handle the sales person's inevitable BS.
Do not go to the dealership but initiate the process on line. The dealer's goal is to get you to visit the dealership and everything they do is done with that in mind. They believe once they have you on site they can work their "magic" to get you to buy on their terms. That is, obviously, not your goal. It is always good to keep them guessing.
The amount you initially offer should start at your computed base amount, or a bit higher, and increase by small increments ($100 to $300) until you reach a deal or a price which is simply too high. Do not be worried about offering too low a price, there is nothing to lose. They are not worried about quoting a high price.
If a price cannot be negotiated, contact another dealer and begin the process again. Of course there is nothing wrong with contacting multiple dealers on line at the same time. It is, after all, just business.
You need to know your approximate credit score and available interest financing rates before you go to the dealer. Credit Karma is a good free source of the approximate credit score. Takes only a few minutes. With your credit score you can find the prevailing finance rates on line, at a bank or the credit union.
One thing about dealer financing. Dealers often make money when they broker the financing. If a dealer can match the interest rate you find elsewhere, let them do it. If they make a bit of money in this area, at no significant cost to you, they might be willing to sell the vehicle at a lower price.
Finally, the big thing. After you have made a great deal on the price of the vehcile do not throw it away in the dealer's F&I office. The F&I manager, who is actually the dealer's best sales person, will offer you numerous "products" and may provide a littany of stories and props designed to get you to buy. They are all vastly overpriced and of little real value.
Many of their "products" particularly extended service contract or GAP insurance can be purchased elsewhere for a fraction of the cost if needed. Smart buyers just say NO to every product offered. But be prepared, F&I people are trained to ask buyers to buy their products at least three times as they foolishly believe the only reason a buyer would say no is because the buyer does not understand the "value" of the product.
#11795 of 12319 Re: 2012 CRV EX-L AWD - What Price? [jayct]
Dec 21, 2012 (7:52 am)
Do you know the name of the dealer that you purchase the CRV with? So your final price before tax and registration for a AWD EX-L is $26,649? I keep emailing dealers but mostly got 28K+.....Any tips?
#11796 of 12319 Re: My 2013 EX-L AWD Deal [cmks02]
Dec 21, 2012 (12:29 pm)
I finally bought a 2013 EXL AWD!
O'Hare Honda offered to match the price I gave them from you on this forum however the actual quote turned out to be $26598 including the $830 destination charge + Doc fee of $161.39 and $25 electronic filing fee. The deal was conditional on financing through Honda Financing to take advantage of the $500 flex cash credit.
I wasn't too happy that they initially indicated they would match the price quoted from here and then increased it slightly. When I questioned them the games started a bit however in the end they indicated that was their best price and wouldn't remove the doc fee. I actually got the line, "If we remove it from yours we would have to go back to every other car we've sold and refund it to them." Seriously, do people actually believe that?
Anyway, I called several other dealers in the area to see if they could beat the offer and all were quoting higher and telling me to take the offer from O'Hare Honda if I was getting the EXL AWD for that price. Then I contacted a female Sales Manager (N*ra) at Castle Honda. She was very interested to gain my business and offered to match O'hare Honda's price. She was very open and straight forward and did not try to play any games. I told her the quote and she preceded to tell my what their invoice cost was on the car $26749 and also that the quoted price was approx. $1000 below invoice. She also let me know that the manufacturer hold back on the car was $700 thus they were actually losing money. I'm sure that is not the case however I don't think they made a lot in the deal. In addition to her honesty, openness and being straight forward, she also said the deal did not require financing with Honda Finance which was great for me as I had the cash and was planning to pay off any required financing with the deal in the first month. In the end these 2 factors made the choice easy and I bought from Castle Honda.
Here is a break down of the price - I added mud guards and wheel locks afterwards.
price incl. destination charge - $26598.00
mud guards - $198.00 installed
wheel locks - $89.00 installed
doc fee - $161.39
electronic filing fee - $25.00
sub total - $27071.39
tax - 8.25% = $2233.39
total = $29304.78
plate? - $15
registration - $194
Total OTD incl tax and registration = $29513.39
#11797 of 12319 Re: $500 Flex Cash [dpr12]
Dec 22, 2012 (12:48 am)
I bought CR-V EX-L AWD (no navigation, no dvd) a week ago. Paid $30,000 OTD, which included ALL the fees and taxes. It went like this: Paid with personal check $17,500, $2,500 put on my Am Ex (to get points), and then $10,000 financed. They gave me this price with condition that I will finance with them. I agreed, having in mind to pay off full amount as soon as I can. I called yesterday Honda Finance Services office and found out my account #. I went online and created profile and linked to my bank account. Paid $10,008.41 ($8.41 interest for 1 week). The dealer applied $500 flex cash to the total amount and on the paper it looks $30,500 plus interest. They applied 4.4% interest, but I did not care. Total interest was $1,171.40
Details look like this:
Car price: $27,612 including delivery or destination charge.
Documentation fee: $299
Taxes: $2,450.60 NYS 8.875%
Registration fee: $82
Online reg. fee: $56
I did not ask, but they gave me wheel locks for free (installed) and 2 oil changes which I accepted with no hesitation. Forgot to mention that I had my old plates from my flooded car and it was transfer of registration.
I did not care how they name and would spread their fees, but they met my target price of $30k and I am satisfied. Good luck.
#11798 of 12319 Re: $500 Flex Cash [zipa]
Dec 22, 2012 (12:24 pm)
ZIPA,, post the name of the Dealership in New York you purchased at. You should of tried to Negotiate that high doc fee. To many people just accept this charge of letting dealers get away with this.. Enjoy your CRV
#11799 of 12319 Re: $500 Flex Cash [brian125]
Dec 22, 2012 (1:15 pm)
I bought it from DCH Academy Honda in Old Bridge NJ. They were not afraid to give me a quote and negotiate through internet, and earned my business. Internet manager from Planet Honda for example wrote me a mini-lecture about how well they treat customers and so on, but did not give any specifics saying that it is not honest way to get specifics from them and then use it with other dealers. Their internet rep. writes that she is not authorized to give any details. Their tactics is to lure people into their place and then using their HONEST approach to separate them from hard earned money. It is the same as walk in from the street. The same BS I received from Route 22 Honda who complained that their competitors may find out about "structure of their business". I do not care about their structure, I just want to buy a car. Thus, they lost a potential buyer.