Last post on Oct 03, 2013 at 1:25 PM
You are in the Volkswagen Passat
What is this discussion about?
Volkswagen Passat, Sedan, Wagon
Go to NHTSA to file a safety complaint.
Or call Monday-Friday (8 am to 8 pm ET) (888) 327-4236 TTY: (800)424-9153
#2530 of 3341 Re: About to buy 2003 Passat 1.8T GLS [shipo]
Jan 29, 2008 (4:24 pm)
Mobil 1 synthetic oil runs about W10,000, which equates to about $11 per quart. Additionally, when it comes to auto parts, it's roughly twice the US going rate. Hence, I was trying to get a reliable online VW parts store to develop a relationship.
I've finalized the deal yesterday, and now my "new" 2003 Passat GLS is sitting at the Embassy compound, waiting for diplomatic plates to be authorized and installed.
Thank you again for your advice.
#2531 of 3341 Re: About to buy 2003 Passat 1.8T GLS [navyguy1990]
Jan 29, 2008 (7:42 pm)
#2534 of 3341 Non working remote keys
Jan 30, 2008 (8:57 am)
Recently I had the battery on my '02 Passat wagon run down. I ultimately replaced it, but in the process I've had problems with my two remotes. They will unlock/lock the driver's door, the rear lid and the panic button, but not the passenger doors. I've tried resetting the keys and reprogramming them according to the manual, but to no avail.
You can hear the acuators working, but they're not unlocking the doors. A trip to the VW dealer brought the "We don't know. Leave it and we'll take a look." Any suggestions? Thanks.
#2535 of 3341 Re: Help for a (V6) 1996 VW Passat [davec9]
Jan 31, 2008 (8:55 am)
Here's a thought... is it possible that the radiator cap is not keeping appropriate pressure in the cooling system? Or the cooling system has a leak that is not apparent?
If the cooling system is not properly pressurized the antifreeze can expand and push out into the expansion tank. This condition will also reduce the cooling system's ability to keep the engine temp where it should be, possibly causing overheating, which in turn expands the antifreeze even more.
The radiator cap should hold around 15 psi pressure in the cooling system. It might be worthwhile to pressure test the cooling system and the cap. The former will reveal any leaks that may exist in the cooling system. The later will tell you if the cap can keep the pressure up.
#2536 of 3341 Re: Engine compartment fan noise [taikens]
Jan 31, 2008 (9:00 am)
The thought that crosses my mind when reading about this (fan noise) problem is... the fan will run even after the car is shut off to cool the engine. This is normal. It is possible for the fan switch to become locked in its on position. It is a temperature sensitive switch. It is a relatively inexpensive part and should be located in a relatively accessible position (not sure where). I would suggest that you replace this fan switch.
#2537 of 3341 Heater, Check Engine and ABS Problems HELP PLEASE
Feb 07, 2008 (6:39 am)
I have a 2000 VW Passat with the 1.8t ATW engine. I drove it for 190,000 virtually trouble free miles...then it ate the timing belt. I had the top end of the engine rebuilt because when the timing belt went, it took out a number of valves etc. Anyway, new top end, water pump etc was installed. It ran perfectly for about a day, then the idiot light circus began. Here are my questions:
1) The check engine light came on first, and after checking the code it says that my Air Intake Sensor is bad. This isn't the same as the MAF sensor, right? I think that I have read somewhere that it may be possible to take this sensor out, clean it and perhaps it will work again?
2) My engine temperature light was on. I could see that my engine temp would stay really low, then jet to the extreme, so I had the thermostat changed, and now the engine has no temperature problem. BUT, my heater has a mind of its own. It comes on, and then goes off (the fan works perfectly). Is there a valve, or some kind of sensor that controls the heater? This is not the electronic climate control system.
3) ABS fault. My brakes work fine until you get almost to a complete stop, then the ABS engages. Some days the ABS light will come on and the brakes work fine, but the ABS will not engage. Most days, no light, but the ABS engages just before full stop. Anyone venture a guess?
Thanks in advance for any help.
#2538 of 3341 Re: Heater, Check Engine and ABS Problems HELP PLEASE [wrightsax]
Feb 07, 2008 (8:03 am)
1) I'll take a shot at the Air Intake Sensor question. I'd like to see the actual code, but it sounds like you are referring to the Air Intake Temperature sensor.
I had a CEL and pulled the code at a local Autozone store. My sensor showed as intake temp sensor showed as bad. I pulled the sensor and cleaned it (I may have used brake cleaner spray, I don't actually recall) and reinstalled it and it never threw another code. On the AWM engine, that sensor is located on the intake manifold and has two hex bolts holding it in place. Very easy to find and clean yourself. Not sure where it is on the ATW.
Post your actual codes to make sure...
2) Heater issue: Is this with the Climatronic system, or the manual controls? Could be something as simple as air trapped in the coolant system.
3) ABS: Sorry, I've got nothing for you on this one.
#2539 of 3341 Re: Heater, Check Engine and ABS Problems HELP PLEASE [wrightsax]
Feb 07, 2008 (3:10 pm)
Hi: Had the same problem with my 2000 GOLF at 75,000 miles. The cheap VW water pump froze, and stripped the teeth on the timing belt. It took out valves etc.
When they put it back together, they had to completely reboot the on board computer.
And now...VW says to replace the timing belt every 60,000 miles.
Oh, and the new water pump has aluminum innerds. jesss my 2cents.