Last post on Oct 03, 2013 at 1:25 PM
You are in the Volkswagen Passat
What is this discussion about?
Volkswagen Passat, Sedan, Wagon
Go to NHTSA to file a safety complaint.
Or call Monday-Friday (8 am to 8 pm ET) (888) 327-4236 TTY: (800)424-9153
#2489 of 3341 1.9 TDI PASSAT STARTING PROBLEMS 1996 B4
Jan 12, 2008 (1:35 pm)
true milage of 95000 .
the car as been running great for the 4 years i have had it not ever put a spanner on apart from the timing belt was done by vw 7 months ago serviced done by my self on the intervals .synthetic oil used all the time .passed every mot emissions perfect below 1% till a about 2 months ago it starting losing power for no reason on acceleration ,it would go from normal drive power to only doing about 70 miles and hour ..i when out the other day and its started fine till i reversed off the driven and it cut out for no reason ans its not started since.
problems to start with
the fuel line pump for some reason has air bubbles in the clear plastic pipe just by the pump ,this was happening when they tried to start the car the other day .with the above diagnosed problem ,apparently if the n75 sensor is faulty it will not affect the car from starting .and if the turbo was faulty this would also not cause the car not to start .because you don't use the turbo and till you put power on the throttle .
.i have taken the fuel filter off the car and its not even half full ,turned the car over and its no fuel getting through to the filter or coming through pipes ,but i have quarter of tank of diesel ..???????? i was told to hold the 2 diesel pipes in a separate container of diesel to by pass the tank for possible air intake leaks,i have no success in doing this as the pump still wont pick up the fuel from the by pass container tempory tank,there is lots of bubbles still in the clear pipe when i do this ,do i tried to bleed the fuel today get the pump the fuel dose pick up but still has lots of air /bubbles in line ??????eis the the pump the suspected
problem .because i have been told that the pump if there is not enough fuel getting through this will cause the same problems as the first problem
its belching whitish smoke but it do sort of clear when on idle .the car is very hard to start or turn over . because the car have been standing for a few days and we have been trying to start it and took some time to get it to go because when the guy was putting easy start in the pipe for sometime the accelerator was not responding till the burned fuel was burned off its very had to explain .the turbo is making a very strange clicking noise but you only here this noise twice and then the car runs fine and till you take your foot of the accelerator again its just whitish smoke not oil coming out of the exhaust just soot ,the car will not start since green flag got it to go .
as any one had this problem with type of car before.
#2491 of 3341 97 Volkswagon Passat GLX Sedan - Mystery
Jan 15, 2008 (12:10 pm)
Hi, I have a black 1997 Passat GLX sedan, 6 cylindar. I bought this car six months ago from the local VW mechanic. When i bought the car it shifted a little bit hard, but other than that, no problems. The person who owed the vehicle before me had put around 2 grand into the transmission, it would not work right. She had taken it to the VW Dealership in State College, PA, and got tired of throwing money into the car and sold it to the guy i bought it off of. He put a new transmission in it, and fixed a few other things before selling it to me.
Now soon after I bought it, my car began slipping gears. It got so bad I had to shift manually. It was never in the right gear, sometimes it would pull out of an interesection in 3rd gear and just dog along. I discovered the only way to make my car run correctly, was to floor it. As odd as that sounds, every time I floored my car it stopped slipping gears, stopped slamming into gears, and ran fine. I no longer had to manually shift it. So i thought I was alright.
Well about a week ago my car started doing something else. It stopping shifting right altogether. It wouldn't go out of first gear until (according to the RPM gage on the dashboard) it hit bewteen 40 RPM's and 45 RPM's. But it has quit slipping gears. Then between 2nd and 3rd gear, it wouldn't shift until it hit around 50 RPM's. Even then it was sometimes a fight to get it into 3rd. The ONLY way to get it to shift is - you guessed it - flooring it. Once I did that it would go into the right gear, and not mess up, and continually shift correctly until I stopped the vehicle.
Now the computer in my vehicle was thinking that every time I hit the gas on my car, that I was flooring it. When I actually did put the pedal to the medal it seemed to override that and run properly. It got continually confused, sometimes on my dashboard all the gears would highlight like my car didn't know what gear it was in. Also, when i pulled out from places or headed uphill, it would jerk forward and back for a few seconds until I floored it. It was explained to me that this computer thought I was hitting the brake and gas at the same time to cause that effect. Now my mechanic has replaced this computer, which resolved some of the problems, but my car is still not sure what gear to go in or what gear it is in. Has anyone else had this problem or one similiar to it? Or perhaps know what could be wrong? I appreciate any response!
#2492 of 3341 Re: Engine compartment fan noise [craigers77]
Jan 15, 2008 (9:05 pm)
Did you ever figure out what was causing this as I am having the same issue. My car went dead about 4 weeks ago, couldn't find anything wrong. Was OK for 4 weeks and now the problem is back, excactly how you described.
#2493 of 3341 Re: Engine compartment fan noise [taikens]
Jan 17, 2008 (4:36 pm)
I have a 99 Passat with the exact same problem. Anyone know what it is yet? Anyone know how to fix it?
#2494 of 3341 Re: Engine compartment fan noise [jenm24]
Jan 22, 2008 (10:21 am)
I have not figured out what the problem is, but it has stopped for now. I disconnected the battery during the week once I got to work (dead batteries after a long day at the office are no fun) and at night. On Friday night I left it connected just to see what would happen and the fan ran a couple times but the car started. It has now been more than a week without the fan running at all. Go figure. My wife picked me up one of those battery jumpstart machines just in case. I still want to know what the hell the problem is, but hopefully it can wait until the next oil change.
#2495 of 3341 Timing Belt/Camshaft Tensioner
Jan 22, 2008 (10:29 am)
I just took my 03 Passat in for an oil change and was told their is a leak and I need to replace the camshaft tensioner and timing belt at $510 and $650, respectively. Aren't the two related and easily fixed at the same time. I was previousl told approx $650 for the timing belt and to replace it around 90K miles but now the tensioner also, is this reasonable? Also should I expect to get another at least 90K mile with no problems?
#2496 of 3341 Re: Timing Belt/Camshaft Tensioner [thesherriff]
Jan 22, 2008 (12:42 pm)
Timing belt is on the front of the engine. Camshaft tensioner is under the valve cover at the rear of the engine's valvetrain (on the 1.8T). The timing belt has a tensioner, too, but it's not called the camshaft tensioner.
Does the $510 price on the the TB include all the associated parts? While you are in there, you might want to consider replacing the water pump, the t-stat, the rollers and tensioner. I would, especially if you're planning on keeping the car. If the $510 covers it all, it's an outstanding price. ECS Tuning has an Ultimate Timing Belt kit for $279 that includes:
OEM Tensioner Roller
OEM Idler Roller
Hepu OE Water Pump With gasket
Wahler OE Thermostat with O-ring
2) 1.5 Liter bottles of G12 Coolant
Can't tell you if the $650 for the cam tensioner is good or not. Looks fairly labor intensive, to me.
The mileage to change the TB is a real crapshoot. I can tell you this, though: while VW suggests a 105K miles changer interval, the editors of the shop manual (Bentley) suggest 60K. I have an '03, mostly city driven, and I'm getting this done next autumn when I'm at about 60,000 miles.
If your car is mostly highway driven, maybe you'll make 90K. If you are mostly stop-n-go, maybe you won't. The problem is that if the TB goes, the valves get smashed and the repair is pricey.
So, how many miles on your car? What engine is it?
#2497 of 3341 Re: Timing Belt/Camshaft Tensioner[thesheriff] [altair4]
Jan 22, 2008 (5:29 pm)
If I may add to this discussion:
If the timing belt is the original one, I would highly recommend changing it between 60K and 65K. The reason being that the plastic impeller on the waterpump begins to disintegrate at said interval. I had the timing belts changed on my two 1.8Ts at 73K and 65K (respectively) just for that reason.
As far as the timing belt itself, here's a guideline to follow:
1) If you have a 1.8T Passat prior to 2003, the timing belt is more than likely the older design which should be changed at 60,000 miles. The newer replacement belts is a robustly constructed redesign which will last 100,000 miles.
2) If you have a 2003 or later Passat 1.8T, the engine has the upgraded timing belt which will last 100,000 miles.
My advice to you is to purchase a complete timing belt kit with the upgraded metal water pump, improved timing belt, tensioner, serpentine belt, etc. from places like germanautoparts.com or ECStuning (approximately $280-$300), and have a private VW mechanic perform the installation (approximately 4-6 hours labor). You will save hundreds of dollars, and the improved timing belt and metal waterpump combination should last for the next 100,000 miles before you need to have it changed again -
(CAVEAT): provided you also have the oil changed every 5,000 miles with a VW 502.00 or VW 503.01 specification motor oil (hint: motor oils in both specifications are synthetic only) - lest the engine may suffer from the dreaded sludge monster - and all bets are off.
If you have the dealer perform the installation, chances are you will get the improved timing belt, but they will install the factory plastic waterpump - which means you will have to change the timing belt every 60,000 miles (because of the plastic waterpump) - and pay several hundred dollars extra for the privilege.
The same timing belt guidelines should apply to the V-6 model Passats (30-valve engines).
#2498 of 3341 Re: Timing Belt/Camshaft Tensioner[thesheriff] [altair4] [600kgolfgt]
Jan 23, 2008 (6:38 am)
I had the timing belts changed on my two 1.8Ts at 73K and 65K (respectively) just for that reason.
I'm curious about how the impellers looked on your two pumps. Did you get a chance to see them after their removal?
So, basically, you are saying the belt will go 100K, but the pump won't, so change the whole thing out since they're all going to be disassembled to reach the pump anyway. Good advice!