4036 messages,
Last post on Jun 07, 2013 at 2:46 PM
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BMW 5 Series, Sedan, Wagon
#1042 of 4036 Used 540i
by riez
Oct 15, 2004 (5:04 am)
You should check out the Tech Q&A section of Roundel (BMW CCA) and Bimmer magazines for the past couple years. Mike Miller has written extensively about the long-term reliability and service needs of the 1990 V8s in both E34 and E39 platforms.
I certainly wouldn't consider buying one unless I had all the service records and those records show the owner knew about proper maintenance. I wouldn't consider buying an E39 if all the owner did was follow BMW's minimal maintenance schedule.
#1043 of 4036 Re: Used 540i [riez]
by erice
Oct 15, 2004 (6:35 pm)
You guys are awesome...thanks for the info.
What 5 series, '95-'97, (or maybe a diff year, i don't know) should I be looking for?
I hear there are some diffs in the stearing linkages that seriously effects feel.
#1044 of 4036 E34 vs E39 vs E60
by riez
Oct 15, 2004 (7:17 pm)
erice... You really need to do your own detailed homework. Seems like you aren't up to speed on much. And that is most dangerous!!! These are expensive cars to own and maintain. Only someone who knows their stuff and knows they have a great independent mechanic who specializes in BMWs need play in this field.
Not sure exactly what you mean regarding the steering. For example, in the E39 platform, the V8s used recirculating ball while the I6s used rack-and-pinion. The new E60 platform has gone entirely to rack-and-pinion steering. I don't know about the E34 platform (not sure if it was all recirculating ball or not).
Keep in mind that in the 1990s, before MY1997 there was the E34 platform. Then the E39 platform was introduced in CY1996 as a MY1997 and it ran thru MY2003. Now there is the E60 platform. They are 3 entirely different platforms with entirely different issues. The E34s introduced the V8s (the 3.0L and 4.0L V8s) and had the V8 Nikasil debacle (catastrophic engine failure). You have to be really careful to ensure any E34 V8 you look at has Alusil.
One nice things about E34s is that they were before BMW's free maintenance and before the very extended intervals. If an E34 has been properly maintained, it has had a lot more maintenance than an early E39.
You'd be best off looking only at manual transmissions. If properly maintained, they are bulletproof (esp. the Getrags).
Oct 17, 2004 (12:07 am)
I'm looking to buy a late 90's 528i.
It needs to be a stick shift --- I find automatics boring on powerful cars like this.
I'd prefer a car that hasn't done more than 75,000 miles or so, and I'm flexible on the color --- though I do prefer black, white or silver.
What's a good price I should be looking at ?
Thanks
#1046 of 4036 Re: Invoice pricing for European Delivery
by 05bmw545i
Oct 17, 2004 (7:45 am)
Hello All,
I would like to find out where can I find the European delivery invoice $ pricing for the BMW 545i
ThX
#1047 of 4036 545i purchase
by jack13
Oct 18, 2004 (12:29 pm)
I received a car fax report on a used 2004 545i I was going to purchase at a BMW dealership which noted two entries relating to "electrical system serviced." The first was in November 2003 and the second in March 2004. The dealer claimed these were just update to the computer performed by the dealership. Can anyone let me know if there actually were requests by BMW to bring 545's to the dealer for these computer updates? The car otherwise seemed in good shape, and everything worked. Dealer was asking 52K. Original MSRP was 62K. The car has 6000 miles. Seems like a good deal. Thanks.
#1048 of 4036 Wanting lease 2004 525i
by sbphil
Oct 21, 2004 (10:46 am)
How do I educate myself on leasing (money factor's, etc.) so I can get my best deal on a lease. I do have the the TMV to work with so far.
Oct 23, 2004 (9:12 pm)
In talking with a various dealers about the cost to CPO my 530i, I learned something that I previously did not realize about lease buy-outs and the cost of getting it CPO'd. Here is my experiences so far: Two different dealers say to CPO my car would cost about $4K plus cost of tires and brakes (they told me their cost was $1200 plus cost of brakes - $800, plus cost of other items plus profit). Another dedaler gave me a flat $2,350 over lease buy-out price plus cost of tires and brakes. Finally (and here is what I discovered) the next dealer tells me that my price is about $2400 (negotiable), which includes cost of the brakes AND he will give me his buy cost (MMR) instead of my lease buyout price (currently MMR is lower by about $500).
Points learned:
1. CPO price can vary significantly from dealer to dealer and may be negotiable (depends on dealer)
2. MMR may be used instead of contract price (also depends on the dealer).
#1051 of 4036 Re: CPO info [pen101]
by kyfdx@Edmunds HOST
Oct 24, 2004 (9:55 am)
BMW has a new program for original owners or lessees.. You can add the CPO warranty yourself, without having the dealer do any work on the car.. I believe the list price for a 5-series is $2749.
I'm also pretty certain that any BMW dealer can sell this to you... I think the spread over cost is about $500, so some might discount it.. Also, if you buy it from a dealer out of state, then you don't pay sales tax (don't start on the legalities, please). This plan is only about 2 months old, so some dealers may not be that familiar with it.
I'm assuming you have an '02... If the original maintenance plan hasn't expired, you could also add the extended maintenance plan to match the warranty.. Not sure of the price on a 5-series, but on a 3-series it is just under $1400. That would cover the cost of your brakes.. However, if you are out ofyour original maintenance plan, this isn't an option.
By going this route, you can keep the dealer out of your lease buyout deal.. You pay the residual directly to BMWFS and cut out any middleman deals.
regards,
kyfdx