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You are in the Prices Paid - Buying & Leasing Experiences
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BMW 3 Series, Sedan, Wagon
#1017 of 12228 BMW318 - known problems?
Feb 05, 2004 (4:46 am)
I just would like to ask for an advice...
I am planning to buy used BMW 3 coupe, most probably 318i, 1997-1998, around 60-90k miles. Can get one of these for 10k or less. Would like to use the car in weekends - for fun drive only , as a second car. But still probably I will pass 25k miles per year.
Any experience about known issues with this particular model and estimated maintenance cost would be greatly appreciated.
And is there any driving difference between 318i and 323i? Should I look for another model? Thanks in advance.
#1018 of 12228 New Jersey Dealership
Feb 05, 2004 (8:56 am)
eelade, reellaw here--
Where is Marlboro, N.J? Is that where King is?
#1019 of 12228 kdshapiro
Feb 05, 2004 (7:32 pm)
Still shows as private ... I made mine public, but still shows as private.
Feb 05, 2004 (7:33 pm)
It's about two towns away from King.
Feb 06, 2004 (4:26 am)
eelade - it's public..
Feb 06, 2004 (7:11 am)
I've negotiated three times for BMW's in the last few years, and had my best success with JMK and Hoffman. JMK tends to be scrappy and willing to deal more. Hoffman is more professional and reserved. Contact the internet salesguys at both locations. I also was able to make good progress with the internet salesguy at Park Ave BMW in Manhattan.
I've found the internet guys are experienced at dealing over the phone, and if you deal among them over a period of a few weeks, you can usually reach the lowest maket price. You don't have to visit the dealer except to pick up the car. The regular guys are uncomfortable over the phone and usually don't deal well with it, IMHO.
It's important to establish knowledge and credibility when you do phone negotiation. They get a lot of tire-kickers and a few wackos calling them. Do your homework; know *exactly* what you want and don't change it; be professional; build a speadsheet; and know what the best deal can be (lots of data here on that, certainly). Don't try to get the best deal on the first phone call. You should be able to do well.
Best of luck.
#1023 of 12228 NEED ADVICE - ASAP
Feb 06, 2004 (8:05 am)
My dealer just called to tell me he's getting a BMW rep's car to sell:
Premium package, including dark wood trip (vs myrtle)
rear side impact bags
fold down rear seats
heated front seats
He's asking $31,500 and including a 100,000mi 6 yr warranty. Is this a good deal? He says these cars usually go as soon as they get them in. Should i try for a lower price instead of the extra warranty? My first choice was going to be a 2004 in black sapphire with natl brown leather. I didn't care about the upgraded sound system or the heated seats. Let me hear some opinions. Thanks!
Feb 06, 2004 (8:46 am)
Bought mine in December... 7700 miles.. mine had all the same options, only it had sport pkg also, but not CPO. It was also a factory official car, but not bought at BMW dealer. I paid $29,500. The CPO warranty is a good thing, and will increase the resale value even if you don't keep the car that long.
I'm surprised that one doesn't have sport pkg, as almost all the factory official cars do. For comparison, in December, a local dealer offered me one pretty much identical to the one you are looking at, only red/gray and with Sport for $30,900. That was also CPO.
Prices have been really dropping for used BMWs in the last month or so. I would think that $30K would be about all the money for this one. If he has already CPOed the car, he can't take it off.
If he is asking $31,500, hit him with an offer of $29,500 and see what happens. I'm sure he's got a little room to come down. Check on the sport package also.. That is a $1400 option. Sport seats are great, and the 17" wheels add to the looks and handling.
Just re-read post.. I don't have rear side airbags.
#1025 of 12228 Re: Leasing when driving just 4K miles/year
Feb 06, 2004 (9:09 am)
On Feb 4, 2004 at9:36am, kyfdx wrote:
>The reason I say leasing at 4K miles doesn't make sense, is that
>usually the lowest lease mileage they will write is 10K/year.
>You are paying for depreciation you aren't using.
Understood, but can you put a ballpark $ figure on how much unused depreciation that is? I'm wondering if a person who drives just 4K miles per year might consider the advantages of leasing over purchasing worth the cost of that unused depreciation.
Feb 06, 2004 (9:21 am)
It would just be a guess on my part though.
I'll use a current example:
2001 325i.. MSRP new approx $33,000
62% residual for 3yr/30K lease $20,460 today
So, with 30K miles, its worth $20,460.
How much more would it be worth with only 12K miles? Tough one to answer.. They both are low-mileage cars. Under normal circumstances, they both will have only one more year of warranty left.
My uneducated guess is the difference is about $1500, if the cars are identical, except for mileage. That is about $41/mo over 36 months.
If I drove that little, I would buy, and drive for at least four years, while it was under warranty.
(whose opinion is worth what you pay for it)