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Chevy Silverado: Problems & Solutions - READ ONLY

1497 messages,  Last post on Oct 17, 2006 at 8:34 PM

You are in the Chevrolet Silverado & GMC Sierra Forum. Your Host is kcram

What is this discussion about? Chevrolet Silverado 1500, Chevrolet Silverado 2500, Chevrolet Silverado 3500, Truck


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#709 of 1497
Blower motor wont come on 1996 Sierra 1500 by alively1
Oct 02, 2005 (3:50 pm)
I have a GMC Sierra 1500 4 wd extended cab pickup. My blower motors were working fine. I shut them down when I parked the truck. I left again approx. 10 min. later, and there was no air blowing when I turned them on. I have checked all the fuses I can find, fuse block under hood and in the truck. cant tell which relays are to what under the dash, as my over the counter chiltons has no really good diagrams etc. I tried to find a expanded schematic to no avail. I have had not much luck getting to view any pictures etc of the heater, A/C blower circuits. Can anyone help out with info on similar problems, or with a good schematic, and maybe some pictures too?
#710 of 1497
Re: Blower motor wont come on 1996 Sierra 1500 [alively1] by aggieangler
Oct 02, 2005 (9:30 pm)

Replying to: alively1 (Oct 02, 2005 3:50 pm)

I have had this problem in the past too. There is a compressor cycling switch up by the top of the dryer cylinder. It is a 2 wire connector that snaps in. Whenever I have trouble with my A/C, it is usually the culprit. Try disconnecting it, and take a lagr paper clip and bend it out to a U shape. Use the paper clip to short across the 2 holes in the female end (the part you disconnected from the dryer cylinder). Now start your vehicle back up and turn on the AC. If your problem is fixed, you need to replace the male end of the connector that screws into the dryer cylinder. There is an O ring in there that sometimes gets some dirt etc in it also. This only takes a few seconds to try and has solved 80% of my AC issues in GM vehicles in the last 20 years.
 
HTH,
 
Aggieangler
#711 of 1497
2001 Silverado Electrical Problems by fluffy1
Oct 03, 2005 (7:25 am)
Ok, I have a 2001 Chevy Silverado LS extended-cab long bed, just turned 81,000 miles on it. About 9 months ago, started having problems with the factory radio, it would take a few minutes to warm up, then would suddenly pop on. Over several weeks, it would take more time to come on, but would eventually come on. In April of this year, after driving the truck every day, went to start it the next morning, but it was dead. Put a new battery in it. Still no radio. Over the last 6 months, the truck will be fine most of the time, except that it still dies about every 2 days. Once you jump it to start it, sometimes it will be fine for more than a month, sometimes it will die again the next day. There is no pattern to this and the charging system seems to be working. Anybody have any ideas here? Obviously an electrical problem of some sort, but how do I figure out where and what? Thanks for any help!
 
Fluffy1
#712 of 1497
Duramax 6-speed clutch adjustment? by themom
Oct 01, 2005 (8:09 am)
We just bought my son a 2003 Chev 2500 Duramax 6-speed manual that he uses to pull our horse trailer occasionally. He loves the truck and the fuel mileage, but is worried that his clutch may be going out. (54,000 miles) Just would like to know if anyone has had similar problems. Also, anyone know the approximate cost to replace? Is there any adjustment that can be made to the clutch? That may be the only need. Thanks for the info!
#713 of 1497
Re: Duramax 6-speed clutch adjustment? [themom] by series60
Oct 03, 2005 (8:51 am)

Replying to: themom (Oct 01, 2005 8:09 am)

To my knowledge there is no internal adjustment for the clutch because its a single plate clutch but you should be able to adjust the linkage, the adjuster should be by the pedal. It also should tell you in the owners manual, but if the clutch is slipping, since there is no internal adjustment for them the clutch needs to be replaced. If its only hard to get into gear than the freeplay in the pedal has to be adjusted. It should have about an inch or so of freeplay.
#714 of 1497
Re: no idea [redtr20] by 2jnelvis
Oct 05, 2005 (3:57 pm)

Replying to: redtr20 (Oct 02, 2005 1:44 pm)

First thing I would do is change the fuel filter. I had this happen before and had similar symptoms.
#715 of 1497
4L80-e transmission noise by park11
Oct 07, 2005 (8:30 am)

Replying to: jjtj (Sep 23, 2005 4:20 am)

When taking off (usually low throttle) there's this noise that seems to resonate from the transmission up into the center of the dash. It seems to only happen in first gear and low throttle. Ever heard an empty tin can rolling around? That's kinda what it sounds like. I had it in to the dealership and the service manager and I went for a test drive. He said it's common and something to do with the planetary gear. The truck runs great, it's really just an annoyance more than anything. Anyone else experience this?
 
--------------------
2002 Chevy Silverado 6.0 4x4 3.73
#716 of 1497
TSB / '05 Silverado 1500 Crew Cab shocks by firesource
Oct 07, 2005 (12:24 pm)
FYI, after reporting a problem to my dealer, I was advised there is a TSB out on front shocks for the '05 1500 Crew Cabs. Bad bushings are creating a creaking in the front end. Hope this helps others...
#717 of 1497
Knock In Steering Wheel?? by mbuhrman
Oct 07, 2005 (5:57 pm)
I have a 2002 silverado and just recently noticed a knock in the steering wheel when you turn. Was wondering if anyone else is having the same problem and if so how did they fix it? I was told by some guy that it is in the steering rod not sure if that is true or not.
#718 of 1497
Re: Knock In Steering Wheel?? [mbuhrman] by noobie1
Oct 07, 2005 (11:34 pm)

Replying to: mbuhrman (Oct 07, 2005 5:57 pm)

"Steering Clunk" is a well known quirk that sometimes develops in these trucks. TSB-00-02-35-003 was issued to deal with it. Sorry I don't have the text; my Alldata subscription ran out. But it describes the problem of inadequate lubrication in the intermediate steering shaft. If your handy there are two ways to go: You can buy a kit and re-lube yourself (cheapest), or you can buy the improved shaft. I'm not sure the newer shaft is improved because of closer machining tolerances or just a better quality grease or both. That's why I'd recommend the first. And if you go that way don't use the grease in the kit. Get a good quality wheel bearing grease or you'll end up doing it again just as I did. All this, of course, provided the diagnosis is correct. My truck "clunked" while slowly turning into an elevated drive or similar situation.
 
-David

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