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Pickups Chevrolet Silverado & GMC Sierra Chevy Silverado: Problems & Solutions 
1497 messages, Last post on Oct 17, 2006 at 8:34 PM
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ihess I had my speedo replaced too free of charge. When I had mine done in march the dealer told me of many people with the same problem and it was taking months to get the parts. Maybee Chevy should send out a recall. |
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I have a 96 Chevy p/u with Vortec 8. Over past 3 months, sometimes I go out the truck will start and sometimes it just keeps turning but won't crank. A year ago, the check engine lite came on and they told me it was the crank shaft position sensor, put a new one in but we never could get the check engine lite to go out. Over the past 3 months, we have put a new fuel pump on the truck, a new ignition module, another crank shaft position sensor and today again it has decided not to crank. Has anybody had this problem or have any suggestions. I can't afford to keep taking it to the repair shop, the mechanic finally said he was experimenting by swapping out parts until the truck cranked. I have talked to several other automotive repair shops and most of them don't want to touch the truck.
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Replying to: jjuarez (Sep 17, 2005 4:53 pm) |
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I drive a 2001 Silverado 4.8 size of engine. With 26Km on the engine.Recently while driving the "battery display" will stay on for a few seconds then go off. The cycle repeats every 4-7 seconds but never stays constantly on. A check with my FLUKE VOM while the engine is operating shows the alternator reads 14.25 volts at the battery terminals with minor changes of +.2 volts. The OEM battery "green" eye indicator is green with 12.4Vdc open curcuit and raises to 14.26 vdc when the truck engine is operating.The meter shows a good DC with next to nothing AC from the alternator P lead to the batterey Any ideas on how to fix. |
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Replying to: creaseguard (Aug 31, 2005 5:01 pm)
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Hi all.... Well, I figured out what the "odd" sounds were coming from my truck. It turns out that I had an exhaust leak. I got a glass pack (on my 89 silverado...v8) hooked to a y pipe with duals. It sounds pretty good. It isnt to loud, but it has a nice compressed growl. It was what I was looking for. Anyway, I am wondering what I should do next. I am wanting to make this a racing truck. The only problem is that I have an automatic transmission, and am afraid of putting on things like super chargers and what not. I dont want to screw anything up, ya know? As far as looks go, I was wanting to scoop my hood. I was told that this was very stupid to do unless you had something to fit in there....Because it would slow the performance of your truck down. So what can I do to make my truck a racing truck...It is basically stock, and it can haul. I killed a v6 cheyenne the other night....It really surprised everyone, and was told with just a few mods, my truck could be an awesome truck to take to the strip. Any suggestions? |
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Replying to: silverado2001 (Sep 20, 2005 5:41 pm) If your mechanically adapt you can do this yourself. The ABS module is under the truck on drivers side frame rail. D.I.Y instructions are on the website also. Ray T. 
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Replying to: jjuarez (Sep 17, 2005 4:53 pm) It is most likely a bad resistor wire in the ignition key circuit. I had same problem. Every once in a while, my '98 Sily would not start. Drove me nuts. I noticed my "security" light coming on every once in a while while I was driving. Anyway, after getting stuck enough times, I finally got ambitious and did the permanent bypass trick on the security wire. I found some instructions on the web. I cut the yellow wire, then measured the cranking ohms resistance at 577. Then off to Radio Shack, where they had 560 ohm resistors +/- 5%. I bought a pack of five for 99 cents. I measured the resistors to find the best one. Closest I could get (to 577) was 554 ohms, so I soldered that one onto the yellow wire (processer end) and into the orange/brown wire. Total cost for parts; about $2, yeah baby! The instructions said I needed to be within 1% to 2% on the ohms. I was more like 4% off the 577, but the truck fired right up with no problem. This trick permanently bypasses those tiny little wires that go to the cylinder lock. Still working perfectly (after eight months). Plus, I went to see a buddy of mine who works with electronics and he built me a 576 ohm resistor using three in series. Someday I might install my new resistor which is almost exactly the measured cranking resistance. Look on the web and you can find instructions, I forgot the link I used or I'd post it for you. Just make sure the instructions are applicable to your vehicle. This should fix you right up. |
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Replying to: junster (Jul 26, 2005 4:39 am) For compressor problems, check to see if system was properly flushed and exp valve replaced during last compressor changeout. To prevent springtime startup failure, run air periodically during winter to keep system lubed and sealed. For low air flow on Max AC setting, check recirc intake above front passenger footwell for debris (like a plastic bag) thay could be partially blocking or sucked into intake. |
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