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Chevy Silverado: Problems & Solutions - READ ONLY

1497 messages,  Last post on Oct 17, 2006 at 8:34 PM

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What is this discussion about? Chevrolet Silverado 1500, Chevrolet Silverado 2500, Chevrolet Silverado 3500, Truck

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#1434 of 1497 Re: '95 Silverado 1500 "NEW" Blower Motor not working [bfbchevy] by jkruse1 Aug 08, 2006 (1:20 pm)
Replying to: bfbchevy (Aug 05, 2006 10:12 am) I have the same problem with my '98. I slap the dash and it comes back on, hit a bump and it goes back off, then I slap the dash again. It's a temporary solution. Anyone have a more permanent one? Replies to this message: gmctruck (Aug 08, 2006 6:47 pm)
#1435 of 1497 Re: '95 Silverado 1500 "NEW" Blower Motor not working [jkruse1] by gmctruck Aug 08, 2006 (6:47 pm)
Replying to: jkruse1 (Aug 08, 2006 1:20 pm) You have a loose connection somewhere... all you have to do is find it. Check all wiring and ground connections to the blower motor and fan switch. Slapping the dash and going over bumps simply makes/breaks the loose connection.
#1436 of 1497 Re: Starting/Instument/Electrical Problem [jdsmitty84] by huff94 Aug 14, 2006 (4:11 pm)
Replying to: jdsmitty84 (Oct 23, 2005 6:57 pm) I know you posted this almost a year ago, but my Silverado is doing the same thing. I've replaced the fuel pump/sending unit, and the filter. Still no luck. I was wondering if you ever figured it out. Thanks
#1437 of 1497 1997 Chevrolet Silverado by boognishlovin Aug 22, 2006 (9:49 pm)
I'm trying to remove the governor on my truck. I heard on the 1997 it's a separate module that can be unplugged under the hood, no problem, but I need to know where. I'm in Canada, so it might be a little different, but I don't think so.   thanx
#1438 of 1497 Dashboard Rattle by noobie1 Aug 26, 2006 (8:46 am)
2002 Silverado, X-Cab   I just spent several hours looking for a rattle behind the dashboard, top/middle. It's very annoying. It sounded like something tapping the underside of the cover, but I drove it with the cover off with no change. In fact, with the cover off it sounds like it's coming from inside or behind the HVAC ducting, yikes. Anyone ever had a solution to this problem, I mean short of cranking up the audio or trading the truck in.   Like A Rock!   -David
#1439 of 1497 1989 Silverado Dying Problems by vrk0057 Aug 27, 2006 (9:58 am)
My dad's 1989 Chevrolet Silverado, V6 with 350,000 miles (original engine and transmission, no rebuilds!) has started dying. It has been doing so about a year. We did a tune up with AC Delco parts, replaced the catalytic converter and distributor shaft. About 6 months after all this work, the dying started at speeds of 60 MPH or greater. Now it dies all the time. We let our Chevrolet dealer investigate. They kept it for two days during which they did a compression check, computer check, and fuel system testing, all tests came back fine. When it dies, it acts like someone just turned the key off, no hesitation or warning before it croaks, just the SES light will come on about a second before it quits. If you watch carefully and press the gas pedal, it will still die peacefully. We replaced the ignition coil recently, but that didn't help it still dies. This vehicle is obviously no longer a daily driver, but we would like to make it safe to drive again. Any thoughts out there are greatly appreciated!!! Replies to this message: matman98 (Aug 27, 2006 2:37 pm) hp73chevy (Aug 27, 2006 5:00 pm) vrk0057 (Aug 29, 2006 6:29 pm) hotrod14 (Sep 12, 2006 9:58 am) vrk0057 (Sep 12, 2006 5:54 pm)
#1440 of 1497 Re: 1989 Silverado Dying Problems [vrk0057] by matman98 Aug 27, 2006 (2:37 pm)
Replying to: vrk0057 (Aug 27, 2006 9:58 am) Have you thought about the key switch?? Just a thought....   Doug
#1441 of 1497 Re: 1989 Silverado Dying Problems [vrk0057] by hp73chevy Aug 27, 2006 (5:00 pm)
Replying to: vrk0057 (Aug 27, 2006 9:58 am) I had a similar problem on an older silverado like that. Believe it or not it was the gas tank. Over the years it was breaking down inside and pieces were clogging the fuel filter and pump. when this happened the whole truck shut down but the electric stayed on as if I turned the key but did not start it. So if your truck is shutting down but the lights on the dash stay on youmay have this problem. If not then I would assume it's electrical. I replaced the gas tank, fuel pump, sending unit and fuel filter. I couldnt even believe fuel was getting to the throttle body by the looks of those parts after I removed them. After this the truck ran fine and still does. Replies to this message: vrk0057 (Aug 29, 2006 6:29 pm)
#1442 of 1497 2002 2500hd transfercase noise by dietert Aug 28, 2006 (1:13 pm)
I have a 2002 ad with a 6.6 diesel. My transfercase started making noise about 2 months ago.I checked my fluid and it was low,so i added fluid but could not find a leak.I then thought maybe the slip yolk seal was bad,having owned a jeep with one i know how the leak,this did not seem to stop the noise.I have 92000 miles on this truck and i went to change the fluid and found it had a burnt smell and it was like paste.Ill probrably have to replace the transcase but im not sure how tough a job it will be or whereto buy one reasonable,any suggs or has anyone had this prob? Replies to this message: hp73chevy (Aug 29, 2006 9:51 am)
#1443 of 1497 Re: 2002 2500hd transfercase noise [dietert] by hp73chevy Aug 29, 2006 (9:51 am)
Replying to: dietert (Aug 28, 2006 1:13 pm) Check your tranny fluid as well if your tcase is low. im assuming it's an automatic. your case could very well be leaking from the gasket that mates the case and tranny. They break down after a while and need to be replaced around the 100k mark. Or it may just be that the bolts have losened a bit and when the truck goes over bumps and such the drivetrain flex is opening up the gap due to the loose bolts causing it to leak while driving but not visible or obvious when the truck is parked and your under it. (this happened to mine once). Pasty ATF is an indication of water making its way into the case, so check your tranny to make sure its not similar. As far as replacing the tcase, Piece of Cake. You can find one for about 300-400 from a junk yard usually with a warranty. First, drain it. then, buy a gasket, pull the driveshafts off, and pop off the bolts mating the case to the tranny,allong with any electric harnesses. Use a floor jack to support the case while you unbolt it. then pull it off and lower the jack. A splined shaft will pull out of the tranny and ur' done. put on a new gasket with some sealer and insert the new case. To replace I usually just get under it and muscle it back in without a jack because mating the splines is hard with it on a jack. It should take about 30 minutes.

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