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Honda Pilot Maintenance and Repair

3189 messages,  Last post on Dec 02, 2009 at 3:25 AM

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What is this discussion about? Honda Pilot, Electrical, Engine, Steering, SUV

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#3064 of 3189 Re: The Pilot draws too much current when shutdown !!! [rodut] by bigdadi118 Feb 13, 2009 (2:47 pm)
Replying to: rodut (Feb 13, 2009 11:32 am) By the way, I leave the driver door open all the time in the garage (there are no courtesy lights at the bottom of the front doors because I removed the bulbs the day I brought the car home from dealership)   Is there a reason to leave the driver door open instead of close? Other than courtesy lights there may be something else (chime maybe) consuming the battery while door is open. Replies to this message: rodut (Feb 14, 2009 11:16 am)
#3065 of 3189 Re: The Pilot draws too much current when shutdown !!! [bigdadi118] by rodut Feb 14, 2009 (11:16 am)
Replying to: bigdadi118 (Feb 13, 2009 2:47 pm) OK bigdadi, will do. I closed the doors, locked the car, charged the battery, and will monitor the battery voltage for about 10 days till my wife will need the car.   Initially I laughed at your idea, but now I realize that one of the many new&useless&fancy features new cars have is that they lock by themselves if you don't physically open the door sometime after you electronically unlock the doors. Which means that after you unlock the door, some stupid electronic device waits to see if you open the door or not. And if you don't open any door, it will lock back anything by itself. I wonder what current that device wastes, while the locks are unlocked.   So the wasted current could be related either with the door physically open (as you say), or with the unlocked locks. Or it could be related with none of them, and it's a "new feature" of the Pilot: it just wastes current at all times (even when shutdown).
#3066 of 3189 Battery Draw by justaveragejoe Feb 19, 2009 (8:47 am)
In the old days, I used to check for battery draw by disconnecting the battery cable and touching it back to the battery post. It makes a slight spark that you can see in dim light. Then I would remove each fuse to find the circuit that had the draw (there would be no more spark) and go from there. If you don't see any spark at all, then it is the battery itself that has a bad cell. Today we can use a multi-meter and watch the amps when you pull fuses.   There is absolutely nothing (normal) that draws the kind of current that would drain a battery in a couple weeks, PERIOD. There is definitely something wrong happening. Lead acid batteries have a very low self-discharge rate but should be charged once at least every couple months during service, which your car does every time you drive it.   My forty-year-old truck sits outside all winter for months at a time and cranks right over. The problem with it is that the fuel evaporates from the carburetor and takes some cranking to get gas again. Replies to this message: rodut (Feb 19, 2009 5:39 pm) steve_ (Feb 19, 2009 6:36 pm) justaveragejoe (Mar 16, 2009 9:17 am)
#3067 of 3189 Re: Battery Draw [justaveragejoe] by rodut Feb 19, 2009 (5:39 pm)
Replying to: justaveragejoe (Feb 19, 2009 8:47 am) Dear justaveragejoe,   With all due respect, your knowledge is obsolete ! Me too I had a 1989 Volvo 240 which I left for 5 months (winter included) unused. After that I turned the key and the damn thing started. Great cars we had in those old days !   But these days it's different. Cars have all kinds of memories storing engine settings, software programs, radio stations, etc. They all waste current, which kills the battery in a matter of weeks instead of months.   And by the way, I enjoyed reading about your method of finding the circuit that had the draw without using any instrument (not even a multimeter). As a side note I would like to mention that if you do your trick (battery post sparking) while you forgot to turn OFF the radio/CD, then you will burn the microprocessor in it ! Funny isn't it ? I read this in my other car User Guide. You should never disconnect a battery while the radio/CD player is turned ON ! If you do ... you will have to sing to yourself ...   Cheers Replies to this message: steve_ (Feb 19, 2009 6:36 pm) justaveragejoe (Mar 16, 2009 9:17 am)
#3068 of 3189 Re: Battery Draw [rodut] by steve_ HOST Feb 19, 2009 (6:36 pm)
Replying to: rodut (Feb 19, 2009 5:39 pm) I would have thought that the memory settings would be maintained with some sort of static ram instead of dynamic ram. And I would have thought that the electronics would just sit there until you had the key in the ignition, with the exception of the security system. Maybe they should just put in a reset button so you can retrain the ECU stuff that way instead of having to disconnect the battery.   The constant drain and subsequent failure to start would be rather annoying.   I don't read all the discussions about all the cars around here, but it sure seems that only Pilot owners are reporting this issue in any number.
#3069 of 3189 maintenance code A16 by ondaman Feb 22, 2009 (7:44 pm)
Hi, I'm getting code A16 on my '07 Pilot. I checked manual, looks like I will be needing oil change, tire rotation and VTM-4 fluid. Anyone knows how much it will cost me for having this maintenance? Any estimate? My local Honda dealer (San Jose,CA) where I purchased car quoted me $150 which I think a little pricey. Thanks in advance. Replies to this message: gmwalters (Feb 23, 2009 3:05 am)
#3070 of 3189 Re: maintenance code A16 [ondaman] by gmwalters Feb 23, 2009 (3:05 am)
Replying to: ondaman (Feb 22, 2009 7:44 pm) Maybe a little high, but my tire rotation plus VTM-4 fluid change cost me $ 100 including state tax.
#3071 of 3189 2005 Pilot Brakes by kevman3 Mar 09, 2009 (3:36 am)
Anybody ever change their own brake pads on a Pilot? My 05 has 40K, needs brakes. I'd like to do it myself. Seems like the pad just slides in. Any advise or videos to share?   Thanks.. Replies to this message: cwoody (Mar 10, 2009 11:41 am)
#3072 of 3189 Re: 2005 Pilot Brakes [kevman3] by cwoody Mar 10, 2009 (11:41 am)
Replying to: kevman3 (Mar 09, 2009 3:36 am) keyman3,   I replaced the pads on my 04 Pilot. By far the easiest I have done. If you have swapped pads an any disk brakes before then it is straight forward.    First you should probably double check how much pad is left. I got 75K miles out of mine and they still had pad left. Also you should probably replace both Front & Rear at the same time. My Pilot had worn them very evenly, side to side and front to rear. Next I wewnt to Majestic Honda on the web and bought my pads, they were a LOT cheaper than my local Honda dealer even after S&H. About $50/set and they were Honda Pads.   Changing them was very simple, Remove tire, remove 2 bolts holding caliper to the spindle (10mm or 13mm wrench), remove the pad farthest from the caliper piston, use a C-Clamp against the remaining pad to recess the piston back into the caliper slowly, remove the remaining pad, install the new pads (after applying supplied black goop to the back side of the new pad and between the pad and the thin metal shield, also supplied), slide them into the caliper, reinstall caliper, reinstall wheel. Repete on the other side. Press brake peddle to seat the pads, and you should be good to go..... Majestic Honda also has the diagrams so you can see where everything goes.
#3073 of 3189 Re: Battery Draw [rodut] by justaveragejoe Mar 16, 2009 (9:17 am)
Replying to: rodut (Feb 19, 2009 5:39 pm) Yes, I understand todays cars are different, but they still are designed to not require the kind of power that drains a battery in a couple weeks. Something is wrong, wrong wrong. The only thing that should require power (at least that I can think of) is the clock (or radio clock) and the receiver for the key fob. Both of those combined can't be more than 1 or 2 milliamp. You have a 200 mA draw. That is big.   I have never heard of any radios or DVD players (or anything else) ever being damaged by leaving them on when replacing a battery. Possibly, if the key was also left on while changing the battery but I doubt it would happen in that case either.   Since electronic problems are difficult to trouble-shoot, even is Honda is aware of a problem, it may take them years to figure it out.

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