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SUVs Honda Pilot Honda Pilot Maintenance and Repair
3189 messages, Last post on Dec 02, 2009 at 3:25 AM
You are in the Honda Pilot Forum. Your Hosts are steve_ & tidester
I know I haven't posted in awhile, but I'm always reading. Anyway, besides going through the local dealers parts department (which will be expensive) does anyone know where I would be able to get a replacement lower front air dam for the passenger side. Oh yeah, I have a 2006 EX Pilot. My wife the other night after our lovely development finally decided to plow the streets block the driveway with the mound of ice tried to go into our driveway by driving through the mound. she mis-judged the edge of the curb and caught the cement with the air dam and CRACK. this is the little black part that hangs down infront of the passenger front tire and has a little curve to it. I've also checked on College Hills Honda parts page and can't seem to find it listed as a part. I'm going to give a call to a local salvage yard on Monday to see what they can work out. Looks like an easy repair as it is only moulding and no electrical or A/C ducting there.  Odie Odie's Carspace
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Replying to: odie6l (Feb 07, 2009 2:49 pm) 
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Replying to: bigdadi118 (Feb 07, 2009 4:28 pm)  See more Car Pictures at CarSpace.com This is a nice close up on it. Turns out it is te Right Fender Liner. Goes from this part all the way around the wheel well. Checked my local Hoda Dealer and they need to order it. $70 for just the part, or $92 for part and install. Colleg Hills has it for $53, but not sure on S&H. I'm gonna give a ring to a few salvage yard tomorrow and see what they can do. Odie Odie's Carspace
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Replying to: odie6l (Feb 09, 2009 5:59 pm) HondaAutomotiveParts.com (Majestic Honda) Under FRONT - FENDER P/N 2321147 FENDER, R. FR. (INNER) $48.54 |
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Hi everybody, Does anybody have a table showing how fast the battery should loose voltage because of the current draw when the Pilot is stored for weeks - months in a garage ? I find it weird that my 2008 Pilot battery reaches 11.9V (so 60% of the charge is already gone) after only 2 weeks of storage. I have an electronic rustproofing system (kept ON all the time) and I am afraid that it takes too much current. Or perhaps actually the Pilot itself wastes too much current when shutdown ? I used the following table: Voltage____State of Charge 12.6V_______100% 12.5V_______90% 12.42V______80% 12.32V______70% 12.2V_______60% 12.06V______50% 11.9V_______40% (so here I am after only 2 weeks !!!) 11.75V______30% 11.58V______20% 11.31V______10% 10.5V_______0% Regards 
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Replying to: rodut (Feb 12, 2009 3:45 pm) tidester, host SUVs and Smart Shopper |
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Replying to: rodut (Feb 12, 2009 3:45 pm) TABLE I. State of charge as related to specific gravity and open circuit voltage Percentage of Charge Specific Gravity Corrected to 80o F Open-Circuit Voltage SG 6V 12V 24V 36V 48V 100 1.277 6.37 12.73 25.46 38.20 50.93 90 1.258 6.31 12.62 25.24 37.85 50.47 80 1.238 6.25 12.50 25.00 37.49 49.99 70 1.217 6.19 12.37 24.74 37.12 49.49 60 1.195 6.12 12.24 24.48 36.72 48.96 50 1.172 6.05 12.10 24.20 36.31 48.41 40 1.148 5.98 11.96 23.92 35.87 47.83 30 1.124 5.91 11.81 23.63 35.44 47.26 Iffy 20 1.098 5.83 11.66 23.32 34.97 46.63 Killer 10 1.073 5.75 11.51 23.02 34.52 46.03 “ Discharging Discharging batteries is entirely a function of your particular application. However, below is list of helpful items: 1. Shallow discharges will result in a longer battery life. 2. 50% (or less) discharges are recommended. 3. 80% discharge is the maximum safe discharge. 4. Do not fully discharge flooded batteries (80% or more). This will damage (or kill) the battery. 5. Many experts recommend operating batteries only between the 50% to 85% of full charge range. A periodic equalization charge is a must when using this practice. 6. Do not leave batteries deeply discharged for any length of time. 7. lead acid batteries do not develop a memory and need not be fully discharged before re charging. 8. Batteries should be charged after each period of use. 9. Batteries that charge up but cannot support a load are most likely bad and should be tested. Refer to the Testing section for proper procedure. FWIW: Leaving the inside lights on can kill a battery in a day or so. Leaving the drivers door ajar and its courtesy light ON can kill a battery in a few days. I suggest you keep a trickle charge going to your battery for your application. Trickle chargers can be bought at any automotive store or even Walmart. If an electrical outlet is not available, a solar panel is a good option. Of course it would need to be mounted outside so it can get sunlight. Some solar panels have built in controllers that keep the battery from overcharging and keep the battery from draining when the solar panel is at idle at night. Others require a separate controller. Google "Solar Panels". Kip |
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Replying to: rodut (Feb 12, 2009 3:45 pm) If stored for a long time (ha ha, 2 wks!) you should probably disconnect the battery or buy a trickle charger/battery tender. Good luck! tom |
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Kipk, your table data for 12V, and my table data are close to each other. Tidester, my rustproofing system draws 10mA only according with their website, which for a typical 50 Ampere-hour battery should allow a battery life of 50 / 0.01 = 5,000 hours = 208 days = ~7 months. So it's not the rustproofing system who discharges the battery. It's something in the shutdown PILOT drawing that current ! By the way, I leave the driver door open all the time in the garage (there are no courtesy lights at the bottom of the front doors because I removed the bulbs the day I brought the car home from dealership). Could an open door raise the current drawn from the battery ?? If not, what the hell draws so much current from the battery when anything is shutdown ?! Tsy, both you, other people, and myself saw this happening, so probably all our cars are OK. By design the Pilot draws too much current when shutdown. DOES SOMEBODY KNOW WHAT DEVICE TAKES THAT CURRENT? Perhaps I could put it in garbage, like I did with the door bulbs. 
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