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SUVs Honda Pilot Honda Pilot Maintenance and Repair
3189 messages, Last post on Dec 02, 2009 at 3:25 AM
You are in the Honda Pilot Forum. Your Hosts are steve_ & tidester
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Replying to: tiacia (Apr 25, 2008 8:19 pm) I just wanted to say it is most important to mention the issues that decrease one's experience with one's car, and I just wanted to express how satisified we are with our Pilot. I think we are fortunate not to have these issues YET. Thanks to all for helping us keep abreast of the issues and helping us to look for if there are issues. Good luck to all and stay safe jensad |
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Thanks bigdadi (for the Hunter website) but I have a very long history of going into repair shops with one minor problem, and leaving the shop with 3 bigger problems. The vibration is minor (I have to lift my hands from the steering wheel to be able to see it), and it happens only at 75mph or more, so it's a very effective speed control tool. If I feel the vibration, I will slow down. These things are not race cars anyway. I reached the conclusion that talking with people on these forums is way more effective than going to repair shops and have some idiots destroy your car. You read the website, you find out that your problem is actually a "standard feature" on lots of other Pilots, so you simply forget about it, and happily live your life ! Even if it's a "standard feature" as you TiaCia say, still they should have made the steering way harder at high speed. If it's so light, the brain must be used to decide how much to turn the steering wheel. On my Accord (and probably on your CR-V) the instinct was enough, because the feedback from the road was way better. The instinct was acting instantaneously (fast, so safe), but the brain needs some milliseconds to decide how much to turn the steering wheel. Cheers
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Replying to: rodut (Apr 27, 2008 4:42 pm) 
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Hi guys, Did your Honda dealers offer "Electronic Rustproofing modules" ? Mine did. I got the CM2000 module made by Final Coat, and I'd like to know if you ever heard about the success or failure of such modules. It's designed for cars, NOT for boats submerged in water (early electronic modules didn't work on cars, because they were relying on water as a conductive environment, but cars are rarely driven in the ocean). On the "Krown Rustproofing" web site (oil guys), they say that the CM2000 is crap, and show some rusty steel panels unprotected by the CM2000, and other steel panels greatly protected by their oil (chemical). I know Krown is good for metal, but very bad for any rubber in the car (or even some electronics, after 7-8 years). What bothers me is that I know that Krown lies at least 2 times on their website: 1) they say that the manufacturers warranties are never affected by their oil (chemical) treatment. Which is a lie, because in my GMC Savana warranty booklet it's written that GM's rustproofing warranty is void if you aftermarket rustprotect the van (using oil or chemicals). 2) when they evaluate their competition effectiveness (the CM2000 electronic module), they test regular steel, not galvanized steel ! This is cheating, because cars are made using galvanized steel, and the CM2000 manufacturer (Final Coat) clearly states that the module will work on galvanized steel only ! Did you hear stories about people who actually used these modules ? It seems that people in Australia like them a lot ... (salty climate, driving on the ocean's beach, etc). Here in Canada it's even saltier (man made salt !). |
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| Own a 2004 Honda Pilot EXL with 4WD. It only has 22,000 miles on it. Yesterday I got a VTM-4 light and a Check Eng. The VTM-4 lite is steady but the activation switch has not been pushed. The Check Eng. is PO325. I reset it and after about a mile both lights come back on. Don't see how a Knock Sensor (PO325) and 4WD have anything to do with each other but they both come on at the same time. Any help out there??? | |
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Replying to: hon (Jan 07, 2008 4:23 pm) |
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Hi again everyone, some backgrond for the record... in Jan. I turned in my '05 EX 4WD and came home with an '08 VP 4WD. I still love this truck even though filling up really hurts these days. I now have about 2700 miles on it and still only getting 14-15 MPG. Mostly city driving... during spring break we took a 'road trip' (3 hrs round trip on the NJ Turnpike) which resulted in 18 mpg overall - yay! Anyway, perhaps the take-your-life-in-your-hands driving style around here is to blame for poor mileage. Tires holding steady at 34 psi. Now for the questions: 1. How important is the break in period to overall mileage, really? I must say I've never really been able to adhere to the "don't go over 50 for 300 miles" or whatever it is, simply because I probably would have been run off the road even on the way home from the dealer! Is it that critical? My mileage did improve in the '05 after probably 5,000 miles, so I am hoping for the same this time. 2. My dear daughter opened the passenger door into a metal signpost (a "No Parking 8-4" but it's OK, we were parking at 7!) and the door now has several miniscule chips all in a line, spanning about 4 inches - not a solid stripe (like keying). It's not glaringly noticeable but now I know it's there. The "Nimbus Gray" is all gone but I can't tell if it's down to the metal or not. Should I bother with touchup paint? Will I need to sand, compound, additional clear coat, etc. ? (the internet and its endless amounts of info can be quite overwhelming!) I know something like this will be covered under my lease terms, but it's bugging me. Second: Many of you will gasp at this but I finally washed my car (by hand, that is) 2 weekends ago (and of course it rained within 12 hours thereafter). But while washing I noticed that two of the lug nuts have what look like black permanent marker written on them. I highly doubt this occurred after I brought it home and feel like it must have been there pre-delivery. Of course I picked it up at night, and never imagined I'd need to study the lugs in addition to everything else. So - does anyone know of a solvent that can remove this without damaging the metal? Or, what do you think the odds are that my dealer will give me two new ones? OH and just a tip... for those of you with VP and the XM radio trial... search the web for XM $77 deal ... it really works - I now have it for the next year at a net cost of $5.34 per month!! Sweet!  Thanks everyone - I enjoy this site immensely even though I don't post often. Cheers, Kay
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Replying to: ayalakay (May 05, 2008 11:07 am) |
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Replying to: ayalakay (May 05, 2008 11:07 am) |
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