Last post on Jul 17, 2013 at 11:15 AM
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Nissan 300ZX, Hatchback
#133 of 175 Re: [kdawg67]
Nov 09, 2008 (1:31 pm)
Need more info: Was any work done when it stopped? Will the blower work but no air out of AC? (will it blow heat?). Which AC controls does your car have?
#137 of 175 1986 300zx won't run please help
Dec 11, 2008 (9:17 am)
I bought a 86 300zx non-turbo 5sp in GA, dealer said he sold it to a good customer who drove it to FL and it quit,towed back to dealer and I bought it. It starts for about 1sec. and quits. Valdosta nissan said that it had a 84 ecm harness and it wouldn't work but it's obvious that the car ran with this harness. I can hear the fuel pump when I turn the key. I've swapped out dist, crank sens, cyl temp sens. fuel pump, fuel pres sens, w/used units, all with the same result, starts and quits. and ecm's too. i've wrenched on motors for years, what am I missing? It's driving me nuts! It's a beautiful car and i've had these z's for years. Oh please help me z gurus.
#138 of 175 Re: 1986 300zx won't run please help [300pilot]
by MrShift@Edmunds HOST
Dec 11, 2008 (10:04 am)
Well if indeed it has a cobbled up '84 harness in there, your problem could be anywhere in the harness. It sounds to me like some vital signal from a sensor to the ECM is getting lost or misinterpreted, doesn't it?
You may need a factory manual and a good diagnostic computer to figure this one out. Once modifications have been made, all bets are off. You may need to initiate the tedious process of checking voltages and signals at each ECM port.
#139 of 175 Odd thing you might look at -
Dec 11, 2008 (12:56 pm)
I had this exact problem on an Acura Integra. It would crank and start and die.
Sometimes it would run but 98 percent of the time it just started and stopped.
It turned out that the ignition switch in the steering column had cracked. When you turned the key to start, it would make contact and turn the starter. The engine would start, and I'd let go of the key. However, because of the crack in the switch, the key didn't fall all the way back to the 'run' position, contact would be broken, and the engine would stop.
My dealer replaced about half of the fuel injection and ignition system before we figured it out.
Probably isn't your problem, but hey! It's worth a look along those lines.
#140 of 175 Re: 1986 300zx won't run please help [300pilot]
Dec 11, 2008 (10:06 pm)
I tend to agree that if it ran B4, why not now? If the car just quit, as you were told and B4 you spend more money - get out your volt ohm meter and check out the fuse panel (driver's side kick panel) or (easier) - pull the panel loose and check the wire solder connertions on the rear. These joints have been known to break and the engine will start (sometimes) and then the viberation breaks the connection and the engine stops. Cross your fringers - give it a shot - good luck...
Dec 12, 2008 (11:08 pm)
I can't wait to get back to GR Michigan (I'm driving back from LA now) to try your suggestions, where can I get the manual the haynes ones don't have crap in them. I'll keep you posted. thanks 300pilot
#142 of 175 Re: thanks guys [300pilot]
Dec 13, 2008 (5:29 pm)
Got mine direct from Nissan (USA). Got the phone number from the local dealer's parts department, called (they do plastic) and presto - two weeks and a brand new 300ZX shop manual. Beware the manual is very good but have errors in it. You're right, the Haynes are only good for the outhouse (down here) or to start you're winter fire up where you are.