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Nissan 300ZX, all models

173 messages,  Last post on Apr 13, 2013 at 5:45 AM

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What is this discussion about? Nissan 300ZX, Hatchback

Messages Page 14 of 18

#123 of 173 Re: my clutch pedal [tamitt] by bodawg

Jan 08, 2008 (8:23 pm)

Replying to: tamitt (Dec 24, 2007 11:18 pm)
MCP: There MAYBE another component in the "CLUTCH SYSTEM called a "DAMPER CLUTCH" . Follow your Clutch line to the passenger underside of the car. it kinda looks like an american solenoid, not very big. But it's in between the Master and the Slave Cylinders. Replace that, Bleed the system again and that should solve your "Pedal to the floor problem". Those little things cost but are simple to put on.........if you have small hands.

#124 of 173 1990 300 ZX twin turbo by dillybird

May 11, 2008 (5:41 pm)

Hi there...
i am trying to find body parts for my 90 300zx twin turbo... does anyone know of any good web sites? Much appreciated!

#125 of 173 TSB For Door Rattle - Long Shot Request For Help by asa

May 20, 2008 (10:17 am)

Back in November 1990 Nissan issued a 300ZX Technical Service Bulletin (TSB) NTB90102, also referenced BF90018 regarding a rattle noise in the door area from the door striker. Can anyone tell me details about this fix? I don't own a 300ZX*, but have a Nissan with the same problem. Thanks for any help you can offer.
 
* I do have two friends with 300ZX's tho!

#126 of 173 Re: TSB For Door Rattle - Long Shot Request For Help [asa] by Mr_Shiftright HOST

May 20, 2008 (10:30 am)

Replying to: asa (May 20, 2008 10:17 am)
90nissan07
 
Classification: Section:
BF90-018 BODY & FRAME
 
Reference:
TECHNICAL BULLETIN NTB90-102
Models:
1990 300ZX Date:
NOVEMBER 29, 1990
1990 300ZX RATTLE NOISE FROM THE
 
FRONT DOOR STRIKER
APPLIED MODEL: 1990 300ZX
 
APPLIED VIN AND DATE: 2-Seater, JN1RZ24A-LX018726 04/11/90
2+2 Seater, JN1RZ26A-LX012050 04/10/90
Turbo, JN1CZ24A-LX005258 04/12/90
 
SERVICE INFORMATION:
On some 300ZX vehicles, customers may complain of a rattle noise from the door striker when driving over rough roads. This rattle noise is generated at the door striker and door panel when driving over rough road surfaces and is caused by the door's movement relative to the body of the vehicle.

 
Upper Door Hook Rattle
 
Inspect the upper door hook striker to confirm that it is not making any noise. No contact between the door hook and the upper door hook striker should occur in the normal operation of this assembly. If there are any marks on either unit, adjust to prevent the contact. Adjustment may be required at either the door hook or the upper door hook striker dependent upon the nature of the contact. The units are illustrated below:
NOTE: One way to determine if contact is occurring, is to hold the door handle up as the door is slowly closed to listen for any upper door striker noise which would indicate that contact is being made.

 
Lower Striker Rattle
 
If the incident rattle noise has been confirmed to occur at the door striker latch mechanism (illustrated below), a countermeasure shim can be installed between the door striker and the door panel. This shim is made of aluminum and reduces the gap between the door striker and the body hook.
 
PARTS INFORMATION:
 
           PART NAME COUNTERMEASURE PART FORMER PART
 
           Shim-Door hinge 80575-50Y00 --------

#127 of 173 Re: TSB For Door Rattle - Long Shot Request For Help [Mr_Shiftright] by asa

May 21, 2008 (8:53 am)

Replying to: Mr_Shiftright (May 20, 2008 10:30 am)
That's GREAT! Thanks a bunch for the TSB narrative -- it's given me a good course of action and some ideas. Wonderful. Again, thanks very much.

#128 of 173 Re: voltmeter spike [joe85zx] by ttoupal

Jul 03, 2008 (6:04 am)

Replying to: joe85zx (Jan 07, 2008 9:58 pm)
the alternator must be replaced now! it contains the voltage regulator and it is integrated and must be failing.
 
if you have to drive the car, turn on everything you can to dissipate the voltage spikes. try to get an alternator with a three year warranty; anything less than that will fail and you will find yourself repeating this cycle.
 
I had a 1995 300zx, and replaced the alternator three times between 1998 and 1992. back then i had bad luck finding oem replacement parts and refuesed to let the dealer charge twice the price. anyway, that car has many nice electronic accessories and tends to burden the voltage regulator to the point of failure.
 
try nappa.

#129 of 173 Re: [Mr_Shiftright] by kdawg67

Aug 16, 2008 (12:41 pm)

Replying to: Mr_Shiftright (Feb 07, 2003 11:51 am)
I have a 86 turbo 300 everythings fine except my air conditioner won't blow out of the vents i've tried everything, vacuum hoses can some help me please

#130 of 173 Re: [kdawg67] by Mr_Shiftright HOST

Aug 16, 2008 (12:49 pm)

Replying to: kdawg67 (Aug 16, 2008 12:41 pm)
Is your compressor clutch clicking on and off when you hit the AC switch? You can hear this even without the engine running as long as the key is to the ON position.

#131 of 173 Re: [Mr_Shiftright] by smorici

Aug 22, 2008 (1:28 pm)

Replying to: Mr_Shiftright (Jan 02, 2003 9:02 am)
I agree with Mr. Shiftright. I appraise 50-60 cars a week and experience about a 10-15% accuracy rate. Beyond the underbody inspection a paint meter is a must professionally or as a hobbyist. It has helped me save 10's of 1000's of dollars in losses on vehicles that I have taken in trade with undisclosed damage. I personally recommend the FenderSplendor FS 488. I have had 2 for over a year and they are inexpensive very accurate and easy to use.

#132 of 173 2+2 vs GS by shooot55

Oct 26, 2008 (6:22 pm)

What's the noticeable difference's between the 2+2 and the GS model's

Messages Page 14 of 18

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