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Nissan 300ZX, all models

171 messages,  Last post on Sep 22, 2009 at 11:44 AM

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What is this discussion about? Nissan 300ZX, Hatchback

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#122 of 171 . by fintail Jan 08, 2008 (8:36 am)
Speaking of these, a nice looking survivor just popped up on the local Craigslist   Slushbox of course, but it looks good
#123 of 171 Re: my clutch pedal [tamitt] by bodawg Jan 08, 2008 (7:23 pm)
Replying to: tamitt (Dec 24, 2007 10:18 pm) MCP: There MAYBE another component in the "CLUTCH SYSTEM called a "DAMPER CLUTCH" . Follow your Clutch line to the passenger underside of the car. it kinda looks like an american solenoid, not very big. But it's in between the Master and the Slave Cylinders. Replace that, Bleed the system again and that should solve your "Pedal to the floor problem". Those little things cost but are simple to put on.........if you have small hands.
#124 of 171 1990 300 ZX twin turbo by dillybird May 11, 2008 (4:41 pm)
Hi there... i am trying to find body parts for my 90 300zx twin turbo... does anyone know of any good web sites? Much appreciated!
#125 of 171 TSB For Door Rattle - Long Shot Request For Help by asa May 20, 2008 (9:17 am)
Back in November 1990 Nissan issued a 300ZX Technical Service Bulletin (TSB) NTB90102, also referenced BF90018 regarding a rattle noise in the door area from the door striker. Can anyone tell me details about this fix? I don't own a 300ZX*, but have a Nissan with the same problem. Thanks for any help you can offer.   * I do have two friends with 300ZX's tho! Replies to this message: Mr_Shiftright (May 20, 2008 9:30 am) asa (May 21, 2008 7:53 am)
#126 of 171 Re: TSB For Door Rattle - Long Shot Request For Help [asa] by Mr_Shiftright HOST May 20, 2008 (9:30 am)
Replying to: asa (May 20, 2008 9:17 am) 90nissan07   Classification: Section: BF90-018 BODY & FRAME   Reference: TECHNICAL BULLETIN NTB90-102 Models: 1990 300ZX Date: NOVEMBER 29, 1990 1990 300ZX RATTLE NOISE FROM THE   FRONT DOOR STRIKER APPLIED MODEL: 1990 300ZX   APPLIED VIN AND DATE: 2-Seater, JN1RZ24A-LX018726 04/11/90 2+2 Seater, JN1RZ26A-LX012050 04/10/90 Turbo, JN1CZ24A-LX005258 04/12/90   SERVICE INFORMATION: On some 300ZX vehicles, customers may complain of a rattle noise from the door striker when driving over rough roads. This rattle noise is generated at the door striker and door panel when driving over rough road surfaces and is caused by the door's movement relative to the body of the vehicle.   Upper Door Hook Rattle   Inspect the upper door hook striker to confirm that it is not making any noise. No contact between the door hook and the upper door hook striker should occur in the normal operation of this assembly. If there are any marks on either unit, adjust to prevent the contact. Adjustment may be required at either the door hook or the upper door hook striker dependent upon the nature of the contact. The units are illustrated below: NOTE: One way to determine if contact is occurring, is to hold the door handle up as the door is slowly closed to listen for any upper door striker noise which would indicate that contact is being made.   Lower Striker Rattle   If the incident rattle noise has been confirmed to occur at the door striker latch mechanism (illustrated below), a countermeasure shim can be installed between the door striker and the door panel. This shim is made of aluminum and reduces the gap between the door striker and the body hook.   PARTS INFORMATION:              PART NAME COUNTERMEASURE PART FORMER PART              Shim-Door hinge 80575-50Y00 -------- Replies to this message: asa (May 21, 2008 7:53 am)
#127 of 171 Re: TSB For Door Rattle - Long Shot Request For Help [Mr_Shiftright] by asa May 21, 2008 (7:53 am)
Replying to: Mr_Shiftright (May 20, 2008 9:30 am) That's GREAT! Thanks a bunch for the TSB narrative -- it's given me a good course of action and some ideas. Wonderful. Again, thanks very much.
#128 of 171 Re: voltmeter spike [joe85zx] by ttoupal Jul 03, 2008 (5:04 am)
Replying to: joe85zx (Jan 07, 2008 8:58 pm) the alternator must be replaced now! it contains the voltage regulator and it is integrated and must be failing.   if you have to drive the car, turn on everything you can to dissipate the voltage spikes. try to get an alternator with a three year warranty; anything less than that will fail and you will find yourself repeating this cycle.   I had a 1995 300zx, and replaced the alternator three times between 1998 and 1992. back then i had bad luck finding oem replacement parts and refuesed to let the dealer charge twice the price. anyway, that car has many nice electronic accessories and tends to burden the voltage regulator to the point of failure.   try nappa.
#129 of 171 Re: [Mr_Shiftright] by kdawg67 Aug 16, 2008 (11:41 am)
Replying to: Mr_Shiftright (Feb 07, 2003 10:51 am) I have a 86 turbo 300 everythings fine except my air conditioner won't blow out of the vents i've tried everything, vacuum hoses can some help me please Replies to this message: Mr_Shiftright (Aug 16, 2008 11:49 am) madog3 (Nov 09, 2008 1:31 pm)
#130 of 171 Re: [kdawg67] by Mr_Shiftright HOST Aug 16, 2008 (11:49 am)
Replying to: kdawg67 (Aug 16, 2008 11:41 am) Is your compressor clutch clicking on and off when you hit the AC switch? You can hear this even without the engine running as long as the key is to the ON position.
#131 of 171 Re: [Mr_Shiftright] by smorici Aug 22, 2008 (12:28 pm)
Replying to: Mr_Shiftright (Jan 02, 2003 8:02 am) I agree with Mr. Shiftright. I appraise 50-60 cars a week and experience about a 10-15% accuracy rate. Beyond the underbody inspection a paint meter is a must professionally or as a hobbyist. It has helped me save 10's of 1000's of dollars in losses on vehicles that I have taken in trade with undisclosed damage. I personally recommend the FenderSplendor FS 488. I have had 2 for over a year and they are inexpensive very accurate and easy to use.

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