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1033 messages, Last post on Oct 17, 2006 at 8:06 PM
You are in the Chevrolet Colorado and GMC Canyon Forum. Your Host is kcram
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Replying to: akshunj (Nov 07, 2004 6:50 pm) |
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Replying to: mikefromaz (Nov 21, 2004 8:12 am) |
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Thank you everyone for all of your input. I have been considering on buying a new truck for the last 6 months. I currently own a 2000 Silverado 1500 LS and want to downgrade to a smaller truck ever since the gas price sky-rocketing. I thought that the Colorado is a good choice because it has good mileage, looks like a marathoner, it can fit in my 20'x20' garage and many of the parking stalls in Hawaii, unlike my Silverado. I'm not overly concern about the towing capacity since I don't think I'll be towing a boat. Maybe two ATV's at the most. Besides, I can gain more horsepower and torque by changing the exhaust to a high flow exhaust if need be. I'm also not a heavy-footed driver so I don't expect to be changing speed a lot and being that my commute is mostly highways, I will hopefully take advantage of the gas saving features of variable valve timing. Oh yeah, the Tacoma '05 will start to get that this coming release. One reason to make it my second choice. I scuba dive and surf, so the only time I will be using the 4WD capability is to access remote off the road surf spots and dive spots. I've been reading this forum since its beginning in 2002. I just hope that the problems thats been described here have been fixed in the 2005 Models. I have put in my order for a Colorado '05 CrewCab Z71 4x4 LS 1SE package with 4.1 Axle ratio(compensate for the lower torque), Sunroof, with wheel flares, bodyside moulding, tailgate edge protector, and rear sliding window. Out the door for $27,300(tax, title, license included) plus any discount applicable. I think GM is offering $2k cash back at this time. Hopefully more when the truck arrives. Price is set as long as material cost does not change. So I am praying that it remains the same. Just incase we have cynical critics here, I will explain why you might wonder why I choosed the higher axle ratio when my point is to save gas. First, because of the low torque, with a higher axle ratio, I'll gain more torque than the 3.75 axle ratio. Publications are based on the smaller ratio. Second, since Hawaii mostly has a max speed limit of 55MPH (only one place has the 60 MPH limit), I don't think I have to worry much about engines working more at higher speeds. Third, to further compensate for the gas mileage lost and boost horsepower, for choosing the higher axle ratio, I plan to add a tonneau cover to reduce drag, change the exchaust to a more freeflowing type to increase horsepower, and change the air intake to a higher capacity for better fuel/air mixing, therefore improving gas mileage. I've done the same and a little more (tinkering with pcm) with the Silverado which has a mileage of 18mpg city/20mpg highway and an increase of 30 horsepower(dyno tested), better than the stock. I have test drived the Canyon, Colorado, and Tacoma '05. The Canyon is over priced with the salesmanager unwilling to reduce the $8k markup over my quoted price of $27,300 for the same vehicle with less options. That basically turned me off on GMCs. As for the Tacoma, unlike the mainland, Toyota cannot be customed ordered because of the monopoly Servco has on the islands. So, you buy what they order. Forcing me to go with the Colorado unless... However, after reading all the postings and taking notes, I will make sure to look for the following during the delivery test drive: 1) Interior wetting/leak due to unfinished sealing of wiper cowels and body seems. 2) Leaking shocks. 3) Fuel gauge misreporting due to malfunctioning fuel sensor. 4) Make sure to check all seat belt bolts are secured. 5) Vibration at 45 to 55MPH, possibly due to tires, engine, driveline, and/or heat shields(frequency resonation). 6) High pitch whining from the exhaust(fixable using WPC281 due to sticking exhaust valves). 7) Bee-hive like sound coming from the AC. 8) Wind noise from seals 9) Ac does not get cold fast or stays in moderate cool temperature on high setting. 10) And the usual, unmatching body panels, paint chips, runs, bubbles, loose or loose fitting parts, etc... And if and when I do take the truck home, I'll look for irregular tire wear problems which might be caused by incorrect trim settings. Now if I do find these problem(s) and the dealership is not cooperating to fix it before delivery, then I will request my deposit due to a breach of contract and instead buy my second choice, Toyota Tacoma'05, of course without the options that I want. Gotta live with it if I want a truck that at least work. I'll make sure to post back here when that time comes up and let everyone know. Oh, and if I forgot something in the list, please add to it, so it can help others like me with the decision of buying a Colorado/Canyon.
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Replying to: islandcorner (Dec 04, 2004 8:42 pm) I've got 15k miles and have had no real issues. My only two gripes are the outside thermometer that doesn't adjust for 15-20 minutes on hot days and the sometimes anemic A/C. Other than that its been 15K trouble free miles in the Pacific NW. As for the tonneau - it will probably not help mileage. Trucks are designed so that there is an area of low pressure that forms behind the cab/over the box. My mileage didn't change when I added my hard cover(not a canopy). Good luck and let us know how this turns out.
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Replying to: ocmike3 (Dec 05, 2004 2:23 pm) GM says they are not suitable, but they won't replace them with a more suitable tire. (Service buliten) The vibration in these tires just won't go away. GM could have spent maybe $100.00 MORE FOR TIRES AND HAVE ELIMINATED THESE PROBLEMS. You get better tires on a Kia. |
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It's a good thing that GM has plenty of brand loyalty, otherwise they would have been bankrupt a long time ago. If Toyota or Nissan came out with a new design with so many problems, they no doubt would die of embarassment. Sure, they look pretty good, but with all of the problems I've heard about and Edmund's own negative review, I wouldn't go near one of these trucks. They will probably turn out to be just as bad as the S-10 was!P.S. I am a tool and die maker and was building tooling for these trucks this spring when the Canyon and Colorado were already in production!
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Replying to: tyrone (Dec 07, 2004 11:46 am) I was under the impression that if there are tire issues within the first 1,000 miles, GM will give an allowance for new tires (based on the cost of the OEM ones), leaving the dealer and owner to decide which replacements to go with. The dash of the Canyon has been pushed forward compared to the Sonoma, giving the illusion of more room in the cab. I am disappointed that GM used the same seat frames as the Sonoma, which include an insipid latch system for flipping the seats forward. You have to push the lever backward while pulling the seatback forward. The 1994-97 Sonomas had a lever to unlatch the seatback that moved forward (in the direction of the seatback) instead of going against your motion. There are no auto up power windows, and auto down is only for the driver's. The wire going down from the headliner to the rearview mirror looks incredibly cheap. How hard would it have been to attach it to the windshield instead of just leaving it hanging there? Overall, it's good for hauling things, and my exemplar has been dependable, but nothing to write home about. Perhaps that's why there are so few praise posts! |
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Replying to: corvette (Dec 07, 2004 5:42 pm) thanks
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I bought a 4 wd Colorado LS ext cab 4 cyl standard shift with the Z85 suspension and dealer installed lightweight personal snowplow yesterday. Drives great, even at highway speeds with the plow on it. But here's my question for the group: GM announced a red tag sale today, with new incentives. What about customers that just bought?
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Replying to: ocmike3 (Dec 07, 2004 9:02 pm) From The Owner's Manual Page 3-39 & 3-40 Automatic Door Locks With the vehicles engine off, and the ignition in the Lock position, press and hold the power door lock button for approximately three seconds until the DIC displays the current door lock mode. Then press and hold the reset stem for approximately two seconds to switch modes. The following are the mode choices: Lock 1 (default) Lock all doors when the vehicle is shifted out of PARK(P) with an automatic transmission, or when the vehicle speed is greater than 15 MPH (24 hm/h) with a manual transmission. Doors will unlock when the vehicle is shifted into PARK(P) with an automatic transmission, or when the ignition key is removed on a manual transmission. Lock 2 Turns off the automatic door locks Lock 3 Lock all doors when the vehicle is shifted out of PARK(P) with an automatic transmission, or when the speed is greater than 15 MPH(24km/hr) with a manual transmission. Drivers door will unlock when the vehicle is shifted into PARK(P) with an automatic transmission, or when the ignition key is removed on a manual transmision. Lock 4 Lock all doors when the vehicle is shifted out of PARK(P) with an automatic transmission, or when the vehicle speed is greater than 15 MPH (24 km/hr) with a manual transmission. No doors will unlock Once your selection is made, press the trip odometer reset stem QUICKLY ! The DIC should go blank at this point. This is the part they don't tell you and that we found out by ourselves. We are 95% sure, this is the only way we could have the computer save the setting. 2 members have made it work this way.
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