Last post on Dec 28, 2012 at 9:38 PM
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BMW Z3, Convertible
#75 of 104 Starting problems
May 31, 2011 (9:26 am)
My 1997 Z3 starts when cold and 5-15 minutes after stopping but if stopped for 30 - 60 min it will turn over 5-6 seconds before starting. Has anyone heard of this and what's the fix..Thanks
#76 of 104 Re: Speaker removal 
Jul 09, 2011 (8:18 pm)
same deal here....both kick speakers are crackling and Im interested in changing them out on my 1997 Z3 1.9L I managed to get off my butt and take a test look down at the panel , which is quite the tight squeeze for me, but didnt see any obvious removal approach to it... did you have any luck on your replacement? any pictures, guidance available?? and did you decide on a specific replacement part? Im not interested in going overboard on components, just a quality replacement works for me. curious as you your approach.. thks
#77 of 104 Re: Speaker removal [testuser1234]
Jul 09, 2011 (9:27 pm)
Pretty simple to remove. There is a plastic locking screw about mid panel near the door end. Just turn about 1/4 turn to release, then work the panel out a bit and towards you. You may have to release a locking clip from the dash at the firewall end. There are 2 vertical tabs that are stabilized by going through slots in the firewall carpet.
The surrounds on my speakers were split so to see if it was the problem. I fixed them with contact cement and reinforced the break with a thin coating of adhesive caulk. So far so good. Will eventually replace them but not sure with what. BTY, one speaker looked fine but still buzzed. Upon further insoection there was a crack not visible until I flexet it outward with my finger.
#78 of 104 Re: Starting problems [roosta]
by MrShift@Edmunds HOST
Jul 10, 2011 (7:53 am)
Just for a test, trying flooring the gas pedal and holding it down when you start the car HOT and let us know if that improves, makes no difference, or makes the starting duration worse. What I'm sniffing out here is a leaking injector.
#79 of 104 Re: Speaker removal 
Jul 10, 2011 (11:55 am)
ok..thanks for prompt feedback..i will take a closer look. maybe i will get lucky and just have to cement mine as well. i saw the plastic locking screw, but it didnt seem to do much, but i will take a closer look on that and the clips and hopefully take a few snapshots for others as i go along..
#80 of 104 Re: Speaker removal [testuser1234]
Jul 10, 2011 (8:09 pm)
Managed to get the panels off without issue. Will pull the speakers tomorrow. Look like 5 1/4 round at most. I couldnt see any issues with the speakers still mounted, will probably just change them out if i can identify a quality replacement. Not really interested in doing any major system upgrade, just a speaker swap. they seem to mount directly into metal frame, so dont want to have to deal with anything than just a swap. Seems like it would be some metal cutting and such and dont want to do that. if anyone reading has some suggestions for some quality replacements, please let me know.
#81 of 104 Re: Speaker removal [testuser1234]
Jul 11, 2011 (7:35 am)
The screw isn't really a screw. Just a quarter turn lock. Turn it and try to move the panel toward the console to see when unlocked.
Google Madisound speaker to see wjhat they have for replacements. They have been around forever and also sell high quality speaker kits. I would guess they could suggest quality replacments. Please post what you find for replacements.
#82 of 104 Re: Speaker removal 
Jul 11, 2011 (2:36 pm)
Just for documenting purposes. Looks like the stock speakers are 4 ohm, LPT 130, 40watts. Here are some other #s on the label in case its of any use: 33867 or possibly 33887..my eyes arent that good. Nokia audio electonics, 49104 30246/02 Made in germany. They look to be 5" diameter cones with a metal housing with a 4" hole center to hole center square layout (in other words, four screws). The speaker was close to 2" deep, but the space seems to be able to accommodate up to about a 3" depth minimum. and yes, I did indeed fine a split in the cone once it was taken out. The wire attachments were assymetric slide on posts so the speaker wire was easily detached. there is actually a pair of these on ebay right now for $100, but I hate Ebay and rather go aftermarket.
#83 of 104 Re: Speaker removal [testuser1234]
Jul 11, 2011 (5:07 pm)
latest update. It seems the biggest trick here is finding a suitable replacement speaker primarily from fit. The diagonal dimension of the screw holes is 5 5/8". Verifying that the 5.25" speaker mounting holes extend this far out has been an issue and as a result, I have yet to purchase anything. I was looking to just replace the driver, but it seems most quality speakers are either component system, or 2,3 or 4way system or coax connected. As Im trying to minimize headache, I am not pursuing an coax systems. I am likely to go with a 2,3 or 4-way system if I can find a suitable 4 ohm one with correct mounting. If anyone has some suggestions here, please let me know.
#84 of 104 Re: Speaker removal [testuser1234]
Jul 12, 2011 (2:46 am)
If you can't find a 4-ohm speaker, then I would look for an 8-ohm one that had the right mounting hole pattern, if your goal is to not do any sheet metal work to the car or speaker.
An 8-ohm speaker would give you a slightly lower sound level, but should not damage anything, and you can always turn the volume up a bit to compensate - that is, unless your drive around with the volume turned up to max all the time anyway .