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#7328 of 19336 Re: 2002 WRX...slowly losing electrical functionality [cwleitz]
Feb 02, 2007 (8:23 am)
I've changed the backlight and indicator bulbs on several switches on my 2001 Forester and my wife's 2003 Outback, both of which were the same. The part number for these bulbs is 83426AA040. I don't know if you can get these aftermarket or not, but I bought them from my Subaru dealer. Anyway, to remove the switch, insert a small, thin bladed screwdriver along the bottom edge of the switch. This should free the lower locking tab, allowing you to pull out the switch. Disconnect the wiring harness from the back of the swich, being careful not to let the harness fall into the swich opening. You will notice two small, flat-based bulbs in the side of the switch body. One is for illumination (backlight) when the lights are turned on and the other is to indicate that the accessory (fog lights, cruise control or windshield deicer) is activated. You can determine which bulb is which by their position relative to the switch body. Use a flat bladed screwdriver to gently turn the bulb about 1/8 turn counterclockwise. This will unlock the bulb, but you may have to ease it out with a small nail or something similar (I used a metal pick). Insert the new bulb, making sure that the two locking tabs enter into the recesses in the switch body, then gently turn the bulb about 1/8 turn clockwise. Reconnect the wiring harness and pop the switch back into the dash until it snaps in place.
I hope this helps.
#7329 of 19336 Re: 2002 WRX...slowly losing electrical functionality [cwleitz]
Feb 02, 2007 (10:42 am)
Have you had this car since it was new? If it was used, I am wondering if there were any mods done that would perhaps have dislodged or loosened a harness connector somewhere.
On the lighter socket and mirrors, I would check the relevant fuses (in car and under the hood as applicable) if you haven't already.
Len gave some good advice on the bulb, which is probably an isolated problem.
Let us know if you figure anything out.
#7330 of 19336 Re: 2002 WRX...slowly losing electrical functionality [c_hunter]
Feb 02, 2007 (10:49 am)
Along the same lines, if this wasn't a new purchase, these symptoms are those of possible flood vehicle with a wiring harness corroding somewhere.
#7331 of 19336 Forester hard start after 4 hours
Feb 02, 2007 (3:11 pm)
05 Forester automatic. About 28k. Bought used at about 20k. Hard start after about 4-hours sitting. Cranks over fine, but doesn't start for a couple of seconds. Starts up fine in the morning or if left for a longer (or shorter) period of time.
Also, when cold it downshifts abruptly. No problem when warmed up. Will new plugs and transmission flush at the 30k service help? Any other solutions? Thanks.
#7332 of 19336 Re: Forester hard start after 4 hours [nw_john]
Feb 02, 2007 (4:17 pm)
Be sure to let the fuel pump run before cranking the engine, it will make a difference. Turn the key to on, listen for the fuel pump to run and shut off, then crank the engine. Should fire right up consistently every time.
#7333 of 19336 Re: Forester hard start after 4 hours [nw_john]
Feb 02, 2007 (4:35 pm)
Abrupt shifting when cold is a normal trait of the AT.
Feb 05, 2007 (6:13 am)
I have a 2002 Outback Sport (Impreza 2.5) my mechanic (who I trust) says that I need to replace my engine. It only has ~56k on it but I bought it in July 2001 so it is over 5 years (technically off warranty). He is a Subaru aficionado and says the rods are knocking and warns me not to drive it. Suggestions?
#7335 of 19336 Re: Rod Knock [sixtystacks]
Feb 05, 2007 (7:33 am)
Get a few more opinions from certified mechanics. It stinks you'd have to replace the engine but if you trust your mechanic and he knows his stuff he's probably right.
#7336 of 19336 Re: Rod Knock [sixtystacks]
Feb 05, 2007 (7:56 am)
Have not heard of "rod knock" before on Subarus. He could mean "piston slap", but I am sure he would have used that term specifically if he was a Subaru expert. Piston slap is a known problem with some Subarus, but it may not be an issue if it goes away after the engine warms up.
By the way, the fix for piston slap does not require an engine replacement, just a minor rebuild to install new pistons. On an 01 with only 56K miles, I would not expect any trouble that would require a complete engine replacement. The whole thing sounds fishy to me.
Please describe the exact symptoms so that we can give an independent opinion here.
#7337 of 19336 Re: Rod Knock [c_hunter]
Feb 05, 2007 (8:32 am)
Thanks for the reply. Actually it is an '02 Outback Sport that I bought in July '01, on short notice, because my '90 Civic SI was stolen out of my driveway! I live in Minnesota normally but am spending the winter in Florida.
Ok. First off I'm not really mechanical but I am interested in understanding. The car has always had the oil changed regularly and I have had the front brakes done that is about it. I don't drive it hard.
The sound that we are talking about sounds kind of like a diesel truck sound. But I have heard it for a long time (long being 5000 miles or so; maybe a bit less). But driving in Minnesota in the cold, at startup-it didn't really surprise me- I always just attributed it to it being cold. It doesn't totally go away after it is warmed up either but I didn't act on it because seemed to be working fine. I drove it down here last month - performance and fuel efficiency seemed normal. About 10 days ago I came out to my car and the battery was totally dead. I jumped and took it to Autozone to have them test the battery because I had just replaced it in Minnesota in September. They said the battery was fine but the machine said it was the alternator. When I took it to my local guy and told him I think I need a new alternator - he hooked up and said the alternator was fine (I mentioned he was honest). The installed CD had always run hot (second one) and was recently retaining a fluorescent backlight even when I turned the car off so I pulled the radio fuse just to make sure that wasn't somehow draining the battery at night. A few days later - totally dead again. Took it to my guy again and asked him to find out where the drain was coming from. When he called back he said he hadn't done anything with the drain because he was more concerned with the engine noise which he attributed to the 'rods'. He suggests we replace the engine; said it would be about $3000 (1500 labor).