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#7256 of 19283 Re: Subaru forester (2006) Catalytic Converters [fibber2]
Jan 17, 2007 (11:36 pm)
I am discovering a lot of wonders.
Instead of waiting on delivery of the replacement Catalytic converter,I took off on my scheduled vacation trip --CA to western FL.
Gremlins have a mean streak. About an hour after I took off,the Cruise Control disabled,and the CEL came on steady. That condition remained until about thirty minutes before I checked into a motel for the night.
Next day, same thing. Day after that, same thing. Now that I have been in the same locale for about a week? No problem.
I have a manual shift; I tend to keep the rpm between 2.5k and 4k. While cruise control is more accurate than my foot, I do try to keep the same rpm range (when the damned CC is working, that is).
Temps all along Interstate 10 were about the same range; the only difference is the higher humidity as one approaches the Gulf Coast.
I'm in a relatively civilized area on the Gulf Coast; CC isn't needed that much, so --it's now available.
I'll learn more when I head back to CA in about five days,I guess.
#7257 of 19283 Re: Subaru forester (2006) Catalytic Converters [gaucho1]
Jan 18, 2007 (6:49 am)
It's probably your cat. The reason why it's not coming on until 1/2hr is that the cat takes time to heat up. Thus in local driving it doesn't have time to heat up.
#7258 of 19283 Re: Subaru forester (2006) Catalytic Converters [gaucho1]
Jan 18, 2007 (7:29 am)
Time for you to take some notes as you drive. Sounds like the light is going off quite quickly, so you are probably having a brief, single incident that does not repeat for a while. As I mentioned, hard or repeating fails would typically keep the light on for 40 full drive cycles.
A drive cycle is a cold start, full warm-up, and a certain set of speeds and distance (like 5-10 miles or so). A brief, one-time incident would turn on the light and set the code and snapsnot in memory, but the light will go back off at the start of the 4th drive cycle if it never happens again.
Did you note any performance change when the light went on? Sag or buck in power? Did you make a sudden change in throttle position?
Just guessing, but I would think that a rear O2 sensor (that monitors the cat) would trip more often than once in a great while, and the light would be on constantly. More likely the mixture, as measured by the front sensor, is occasionally out of spec. Why? Could be actual fuel or spark, or a measurement error (the O2 sensor itself). This is where it gets dicy, and the computer might have it right, or send your shop on a witch hunt.
Please, keep us posted on what they find. I learn also based on what you come up with!
#7259 of 19283 Re: Subaru forester (2006) Catalytic Converters [fibber2]
Jan 18, 2007 (11:49 am)
It is probably tripping the P0400 code (that is caused by mixture reading out of spec, is it not?). Mine was tripping that code periodically for 2.5 years and each time I had my emissions inspection performed the tailpipe readings were nearly identical. I have a hard time imagining that the cat was below threshold if this is the case, so I was leaning toward aging sensors. I planned to address it this spring along with a recent P0420 (EGR system) code, but was saved this headache.
#7260 of 19283 Re: cold start up engine squeal [gaucho1]
Jan 18, 2007 (11:55 am)
Nah, you would have to hear the sound to know it is definitely not a belt. Completely different sort of squeal. It is not bad bearings that are squealing, just cold... complaints. I should not have thrown that timing bearing bit in my last post as it was completely unrelated and apparently served to confuse the issue. I noted it only to say that the complaints coming from the pulleys (or whichever moving part(s) that tends to do the complaining) do not seem to lead to less longevity.
As for the rubber, it does lose elasticity when cold and therefore is more prone to squealing, but again, a different sort of squeal.
#7261 of 19283 PLEASE HELP - MAJOR SAP PROBLEM
Jan 18, 2007 (7:10 pm)
I've lived in an apartment complex for the past four years where I have no choice but to park under very large pine trees. I have a black Subaru Forester. When the spots first appeared, I ran out and purchased bug and tar remover which did nothing. I then tried the infamous clay bar and again, no luck removing the sap. I've tried alcohol (for the sap, not me) and even lighter fluid applied with a Q-tip and NOTHING will take this stuff off my car! I inquired at an auto body shop as to what options I have other than paying for a new paint job and they laughed at me. Now my car is polka-dotted with old crusty sap spots. If anyone has a trick up their sleeve for removing old crusty sap I would be VERY appreciative. Thank you in advance!
#7262 of 19283 Re: PLEASE HELP - MAJOR SAP PROBLEM [missphilly30]
Jan 18, 2007 (8:02 pm)
Try looking into what they use in Canada. I know my uncle upstate ny found some good stuff from canada.
#7263 of 19283 Re: Subaru forester (2006) Catalytic Converters [fibber2]
Jan 18, 2007 (8:25 pm)
Yeah, it's time to take notes.The trouble is doing it at 70(+)mph.
Once I get up to traffic speed (or, whatever I think I can get away with), I tend to set the Cruise and let her run. I prefer to stay away from all the "other" nuts on the road, so I adjust the speed to do so, and well in advance of having to jump out of CC.
So, adjustments are usually minor. My first warning of "failure" is usually a drop in speed as the CC gives up control. There is no discernible loss in power, no apparent change in mixture, throttle response, etc.
Just the damned lights.
I tend to stop around every ninety minutes, so there are plenty of 'cycles' during the day's drive.
I have now been in the Ft.Walton Beach, FL area for about ten days, now, with no lights. Weird.
Hmm.. Speeds locally are stop-and-go traffic, with short cruises up to 55 mph. As usual, I use the gearbox to keep the rpm between 2,500 and 4,000.
#7264 of 19283 Re: Subaru forester (2006) Catalytic Converters [gaucho1]
Jan 19, 2007 (7:55 am)
Minor point, but unless block temperture drops back down close to ambient when you take a break, it will still be considered one drive cycle. The criteria is that emissions controls have to revert back to 'open loop' status. That is where the engine, cat and oxygen sensors are too cold to do their job properly, so mixture is determined using 'lookup tables'. Once your temp gauge gets to about 3/4 of normal operating temperature (coolent temp of around 150' or so), the system changes from open loop to feedback. At that point, the front O2 sensor's output is used by the ECU to modulate fuel pulses to maintain optimum mixture. In short, the system has to start cold and go thru that important transition to even be considered a cycle.
The good news for you is that the recorded error code and the 'snapshot' are all probably still stored data (for 40 cycles). Depending on your ECU programming, the snapshot probably recorded vehicle speed, RPM, throttle position, coolant temp, incoming air temp, calculated engine load, and a whole bunch more. Some autoparts stores like AutoZone will read it out for you. Most just have a handheld, so you will just get the Pxxx fail code, others might be able to print out the snapshot data as well. If you are going to your deal soon they will want to see it as well, so don't have them clear it.
#7265 of 19283 Re: PLEASE HELP - MAJOR SAP PROBLEM [missphilly30]
Jan 19, 2007 (8:07 am)
I don't know about Sap, but I have used WD-40 for many things including road tar.
If the Sap is thick (like a glob) spray on WD-40 and let it sink in for about a minute. If Sap is light marks, you should be able to spray on and wipe off rather easily.
It works great for me. Also, I always wash the car immediately after using.
Hope this helps,
Let me know,