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#7031 of 19336 Sunroof problems on Forester XT
Sep 14, 2006 (8:53 am)
I have a 2004 Subaru Forester XT. I purchased it pre-owned back in April of this year, and it came with 56,000 miles on it. I've added an additional 10,000 on it so far (finally have a reliable car that can take me on a road trip or two). Recently the sunroof, which I love, started acting up. Two things have occurred: It either does not respond at all to the pushing of the button to open or close it, or: When I do attempt to close it, it gets close to the end of the track and then bounces back open, as if someone's arm is caught up there or some debris is in the track. I believe it's the "pinch protector" that it unnecessarily activating.
My car has been to the dealer once, where they supposedly cleaned the track and adjusted the wind deflector. The problem occurred again within a half-hour of leaving the dealership. Today it is back at the dealer, and I was told that the motor would need to be replaced, because the pinch protector sensor is part of the motor and there is no other way to resolve the problem.
Do I have any other options? Subaru is going to charge me $546 for parts and labor. Isn't it odd that the sunroof motor would go bad after only two and a half years? Thank you for any help you can provide.
#7032 of 19336 Forester sunroof
Sep 14, 2006 (10:24 am)
I had a Forester for 5 years, and the only serious problem it had was the sunroof lowering 1/8" under its trail. My dealership, even out if warranty, found the problem so bizarre that they covered everything, sending the invoice to Subaru for them to repay. Try with the dealership, at least for the labor.
#7033 of 19336 Re: Sunroof problems on Forester XT [tanager]
Sep 14, 2006 (11:18 am)
The way these systems work is by detecting a slight overload on the motor, which it assumes means there is an obstruction. I do think you could consider this a defect at 66,000 miles, but I would like to hear Subaru's take on this -- in other words, why would they assume it's not a defect. The thing is, you're out of the basic warranty so maybe they don't care if it's a defect or not.
It wouldn't hurt to call the Subaru 1-800 number, open a case, and see if they can help on this (who knows, they might offer to split the cost with you). I don't see this as being a normal repair to expect -- certainly not a wear/tear item (other parts of the moonroof maybe, but not the motor overload aspect). And the bill is pretty steep too!
#7034 of 19336 Re: Sunroof problems on Forester XT [c_hunter]
Sep 14, 2006 (12:25 pm)
Thank you for the suggestion. I just called the 1-800 Subaru number and they did open a case for me. It's certainly worth a shot. At the very least, the service manager at my dealership told me that if the new motor does not fix the problem, I would be refunded.
#7036 of 19336 Faulty air flow meter?
Sep 15, 2006 (4:23 am)
Just having a little trouble with my 2001 WRX.
I went to take off from a stand still and my engine started to die and run rough like it was struggling for fuel or losing spark. After a couple of minutes the problem went away and the car ran perfectly but the engine light come on. This is the second time it has happened within a week.
I have taken the car in to have it diagnosed on each separate occasion and they have said that the air flow meter is faulty. Will a faulty MAF make the car run rough?
I will add that the engine was cold and the car has had a couple of modifications such as after market exhaust, blow off valve and the standard air box has been removed and replaced with a pod filter.
#7037 of 19336 Re: Faulty air flow meter? [rexy01]
Sep 15, 2006 (5:17 am)
Bingo, we have a winner. The exhaust is probably OK, but there are potential problems with the BOV and the intake.
First, is your BOV atmospheric? If so, your car is running rich unless you have modified the ECU mapping. The stock BOV recirculates blow off air back into the intake. An atmospheric BOV would dump it all, but the engine still thinks the air is coming in and meters fuel accordingly. I think the car will run OK for the most part, but you'll waste fuel and have a sooty tailpipe, and the long term effects of running rich can be bad (clogged Cat, uneven heating/cooling of the engine and exhaust components, soot deposits, etc). The only reason people go with an aftermarket atmospheric BOV is for the cool sound (and that's not a legit reason in my opinion). In any other respect, the stock BOV is better.
The MAF sensor may have been damaged when the aftermarket intake was installed, or it's possible that the aftermarket intake is producing funky airflow that causes erroneous readings. Early WRX's were prone to these issues if I remember right -- espeically if it's an oiled filter that may have sent droplets downstream onto the MAF wire. Either way, the MAF reading will be incorrect if your BOV is atmospheric. None of the data I have seen shows an improvement from aftermarket intakes, and many are worse than the stock air box and resonator (which tunes the standing wave pattern in the intake for positive pressure). Here's another case where stock is probably better.
By the way, are you in the US? If so, you have an 02 WRX -- there was no 01 model.
#7038 of 19336 Re: Faulty air flow meter? [c_hunter]
Sep 15, 2006 (5:47 am)
Pretty good post Craig-- you covered 95% of what I was going to say.
Any mass air meter can develop misreads from turbulence, and if he does have a 2001 WRX (non-North American), I think that they did have the less-than-reliable hot film MAF sensor. Atmospheric blow-off valves are extremely problematic unless you have added the necessary aftermarket electronics meant specifically to use on. The stock computer definitely won't like it.
#7039 of 19336 Re: Faulty air flow meter? [locke2c]
Sep 15, 2006 (7:12 am)
Pretty good post Craig-- you covered 95% of what I was going to say.
Thanks -- that's my most productive work this week then!
#7040 of 19336 Re: Rear differential rebuild [mrs_dunebuggy]
Sep 18, 2006 (10:37 am)
'01 Forester, manual transmission w/optional viscous coupling limited-slip differential, 98k miles. I too experience the thud-thudding sound/feel on tight turns--more prominent in reverse. It sounded so similar to failing CV joints, that I miss directed the service department. When they test drove--no noise/no problem. After paying more careful attention, the issue is definitely in the rear and only after driving for a while. Worst is immediately after highway travel. I live very close to my dealer, that's why they couldn't detect anything. No action taken yet. Hopefully it's simply that the "viscous" material has broken down and can be changed. I'll post again once I know for sure. Comments appreciated.