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Subaru Crew Problems & Solutions

19283 messages,  Last post on May 01, 2013 at 9:15 AM

You are in the Subaru Crew Forum.

What is this discussion about? Subaru Impreza, Subaru Outback, Subaru Forester, Subaru Legacy, Coupe, Sedan, Wagon, SUV


Go to NHTSA to file a safety complaint.
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Your Community Leaders are ateixeira and rsholland.

Messages Page 355 of 1929

#3534 of 19283 Re: [xenakimbo #3532] (spark plugs for '96 Legacy) by edunnett

Jun 27, 2004 (10:23 am)

Replying to: xenakimbo (Jun 26, 2004 5:41 pm)
Your owners manual should tell you when to change the plugs, what type of plugs to use and what the gap should be.... It just so happens that I have the Haynes Repair Manual for Subaru Legacies 1990-1998 so let me see here... You should have the spark plugs changed every 30K miles (unless you use Platinum plugs which are much more expensive and can be changed every 60K miles). Your spark plug wires should be changed at the same time. I think you have a 2.5L engine, so I suggest using NGK spark plugs, model PFR5B-11. NGK's are more expensive than other brands but well worth it. The gap should be between .039 and .043 inches. Don't forget to use that anti-seize stuff on the threads if you plan on keeping the car for the next spark plug change As for wires... I dunno, I think I would just go to an autoparts store or the dealer and buy what they recommended. I've only ever changed them once and it was for an '86 Toyota Cressida blowing blue smoke out the tail pipe - I wasn't being very discriminating on the spark plug wires. Good luck! If you want any instructions or tips, email me (email is in my profile) and I can let you know what the manual says and what my experience has been with the Foresters.
-elissa

#3535 of 19283 Re: NOISE UNDERNEATH CAR DRIVING ME BATTY! [xenakimbo #3533] by edunnett

Jun 27, 2004 (10:42 am)

Replying to: xenakimbo (Jun 26, 2004 5:59 pm)
Hey! Where in upstate NY do you live? I'm born in Nyack, grew up in Goshen, college in Albany, lived in Larchmont and UWS, NYC!
 
Anyway, is it a high-pitched rattle that sounds like metal shaking around? It could be your heat shield. A heat shield is a thin metal cover around your catalytic converter and exhaust to contain the heat that that part gives off. I had similar noises on my old Civic that took three trips to the dealer to identify. Then had the same problem with my Forester that two mechanics thought was the catalytic converter all broken. Heat shield was lose in both cases. Free of charge to re-tighten or re-clamp to contain the rattle. With the winters you get in NY, it's likely that the heat sheild and screws are rusty and causing some rattling. I could be way wrong, but it's the easiest and cheapest thing to check.
 
BTW - The heat sheild is just a cover, and is not part of any mechanical operation, it could fall off and your car would run just fine. Although you might start a fire if you were to park over dry leaves. Or you might melt your brake lines or catch fire to some dripping oil or something. It's unsafe to be without the heatshield, but mechanically if it's rattling, your car can be running fine.
 
Anyway, I've been reading and it sounds like in 96 and earlier models there were three heat sheilds associated with Subaru exhausts, the one toward the front tends to get splashed by lots of cold puddle water which causes problems - cold water on hot metal degrade the metal I guess. Anyway, if you (or your boyfriend) can jack the car up and look at the length of the exhaust pipe and surrounding aluminum (I think) heat sheild it might be obvious where the problem is and/or wether replacing or simply tightening the heat sheild will do the trick. You can read more about heat sheilds and their purpose under the "test the pipes" section here : http://www.babcox.com/editorial/bf/bf90072.htm
Good luck!
Elissa

#3537 of 19283 Re: Any fit and finish/lemon law experts out there? [garrett #3524] by edunnett

Jun 27, 2004 (11:06 am)

Replying to: garrett (Jun 25, 2004 11:53 am)
Garrett,
That sounds so frustrating! Have you tried calling SOA? The number is 1-800-SUB-ARU3 (800-782-2783) What state are you in? I hear that CA (where I live) has one of the more liberal Lemon Laws out there and it's really not in favor of the consumer. It basically allows you to sell your car back to the manufacturer, with an allowance taken out for mileage. When I looked into what I'd get if my car were a lemon, it was actually less than the Blue Book private party sale price of the car! To me, that's a law in favor of Auto Maker Lobbyists. A real disappointment. Maybe your state is actually more liberal? You could also try the BBB and various consumer protection agencies if you don't get any releif. Or, you could stuff muffling in your dash and sell it.

#3538 of 19283 by ateixeira

Jun 28, 2004 (8:00 am)

Brilliant, I love a solution like that. You should patent it.
 
You sure you can afford to fix the other one? LOL
 
For the windows you could use silicone from a tube, because it's clear. Or some RV grade latex sealer, that comes in black.
 
My guess is the tire shop was wrong, it usually is the wheel bearings. Get a 2nd opinion.
 
-juice

#3539 of 19283 Garrett - I did find your case and I'm sorry you have by subaru_team

Jun 28, 2004 (6:30 pm)

had such a niggling problem. The Rep. that has just been assigned your case is very good and I'm confident it will be resolved to your satisfaction. I think there is some "miscommunication" about duplicating the problem. We'll be able to help you in your home State or once you move, whichever is most convenient for you. I've asked to meet with the Sr. Rep. that has your case and the Manager for that area tomorrow AM. You'll hear from us shortly.
 
Thanks - and again - I'm sorry -
 
Patti

#3540 of 19283 Re: Garrett - I did find your case and I'm sorry you have [subaru_team #3539] by garrett

Jun 30, 2004 (9:34 am)

Replying to: subaru_team (Jun 28, 2004 6:30 pm)
Thanks Patti. Nice to know that someone helpful from SOA is following the discussions - I'm new here. Thanks for chasing the case number for me and I have a contact person to call when I get to CA. That is, if the dash noise doesn't drive me crazy on the drive from MI to CA!
 
It's in the shop again today for 'one last time' when the entire dash pad is going to be replaced. Here's hoping!

#3541 of 19283 Forester suroof leak by gmanmd

Jun 30, 2004 (4:30 pm)

I have a 2001 Forester with a sunroof and it appears that i may have a sunroof leak as I keep getting water penetration into the driver's side C-pillar and into the cargo area. My driveway is an upslope and the back of the Forester is always lower, so after a rainstorm I get water into the driver's side bin in the cargo area. I had my dealer clear the sunroof drain tubes but that didn't help. I only see the two front drain holes and I can't see the back ones. Are there drain tubes towards the back? And if so, where are they and how can I get to them to clean them out? Any help would be greatly appreciated. Thanks.

#3542 of 19283 Rough Idle and Stalling on Startup - Solution by joybell

Jun 30, 2004 (6:01 pm)

To update on this problem I posted about a while ago...the dealer diagnosed two cracked ignition wires causing arcing (cylinder 2 and 4). These were replaced and yes, the car now idles contentedly. I hope this will solve the problem permanently and not have caused any damage.
This has been an off and on problem since the car was a few weeks old. They also cleaned the idle valve as was done the last time. Just thought I'd post the "solution" (hopefully) to this problem.

#3543 of 19283 Re: Rough Idle and Stalling on Startup - Solution [joybell #3542] by fibber2

Jul 01, 2004 (6:06 am)

Replying to: joybell (Jun 30, 2004 6:01 pm)
Good to hear, Monica! Was the crack right at the ignition coil (sits up high on top of the intake)? I wonder if the coil was damaged as well - like something hitting it...
 
Steve

Messages Page 355 of 1929

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