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Subaru Crew Problems & Solutions

18389 messages,  Last post on Dec 05, 2009 at 12:44 PM

You are in the Subaru Crew Forum. Your Host is kcram

What is this discussion about? Subaru Impreza, Subaru Outback, Subaru Forester, Subaru Legacy, Coupe, Sedan, Wagon, SUV

Your Community Leaders are ateixeira and rsholland.

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#31 of 18389 won't start in sun by jregen7243 Jun 25, 2002 (1:29 pm)
I've experienced this before in other cars. It was always the alternator. But it won't happen from just sitting in the sun...if the engine is hot and it sits in a hot summer sun for while, then it happens. When I let the car cool off for a few hours, it would start again.   Jon
#32 of 18389 by Mr_Shiftright HOST Jun 26, 2002 (2:49 pm)
Why would the alternator keep the car from starting? It would keep it from cranking by running the battery down, but not from starting. An ignition system doesn't need a lot of current to fire spark plugs--if the engine cranks, that's enough juice to start the car as well.   My understanding of the poster's problem is that it cranks and cranks but won't start after being in the sun.
#33 of 18389 Years ago... by rsholland Jun 26, 2002 (3:51 pm)
with my first Honda Accord (1976, with a serial # under 6000!), I had a similar problem.   It seems, back then, if I shut the Honda down in hot weather, and then tried to start the car again, say within 5 -10 minutes, it would not start. It turned out that gas in the carb float bowl would start to boil, and somehow bubble over and flood the carb. I would have to put the gas peddle to the floor, hold it there, and crank until it started. Often that took quite some time.   Could it be, even though you have fuel injection, that something like that is occurring? Is it possible to "flood" a fuel injection system?   Bob
#34 of 18389 Bob by armac13 Jun 26, 2002 (5:01 pm)
That was a really common problem back in the '60s & '70s. I had that on several cars, most severely on a Renault 16. I wouldn't THINK this could happen with fuel injection, but I've been wrong a time or two before.   Ross
#35 of 18389 by Mr_Shiftright HOST Jun 26, 2002 (5:03 pm)
Not really very easy to flood a FI car and nearly impossible to experience vapor lock due to the pressure in FI systems.   Once again on your Honda is wasn't the sun that did it, it was the "heat sink" effect of shutting down a very warm engine (which continues to heat up even though not running).   I still think this problem is electrical and related to engine heat, wherein a substandard electrical part is dying under the stress of engine heat and recovering when it cools down.
#36 of 18389 Car won't start in hot weather - One more question! by karinos Jun 27, 2002 (10:40 am)
Well, you all have been very helpful, and, if I knew anything about cars, I'd put all of this information together and do something with it! But I just drive, I don't tinker, so I'll ask one more question: What should we tell/ask the dealer as a suggestion as to what this might be? What should we have them check, specifically?
#37 of 18389 Be as specific as you can... by rsholland Jun 27, 2002 (11:04 am)
in describing the situation. Driving conditions, weather, etc. The more "accurate" info you can give the dealer, the better.   Bob
#38 of 18389 Hi All! by subaru_team Jun 27, 2002 (12:06 pm)
I won't be posting for a bit as I'm headed on vacation tomorrow afternoon. I'll try to check out the chat tonight! See you there?   Patti
#39 of 18389 Brakes - by subaru_team Jun 27, 2002 (5:46 pm)
FWIW - Subaru requires that all dealers us an on the car brake lathe for cutting rotors. They do not cut them if they are out of spec. The dealer is required to take measurements to make sure that they can be cut.   The on the car lathe does an excellent job. It only removes a very small amount of metal, but the finish is like satin. It is a "true" cut rather than them being pulled off the vehicle.   Brake pads are another "fine line" issue. A lot of manufacturers are trying to find the right solution. Since asbestos has been removed from pads, you have metal as a substitute. More metal, more noise and quicker wear on the rotor. Less metal, more frequent replacement. I believe that our current pads are good in comparison to some of what the others are using.   It's really rare to hear that someone blames the customer for wear. The only times I've personally seen issues is with drivers that prefer driving with a foot on the brake and one on the gas or if the driver has his/her foot on the brake partially when driving. If your dealer is telling you that the wear is "your fault", ask why they are saying that. Test drive the car with them. If you are out of warranty and paying for the rotors to be cut, please be sure to ask them to use the on the car lathe.   These are just my thoughts. If you have a problem, it's always a good idea to call us at 1-800-SUBARU3.   Thanks,   Patti
#40 of 18389 Poor gas mileage by teetime2 Jun 28, 2002 (9:07 am)
I have an almost new (8 months old) Forester L, which is really fun to drive, but I'm getting VERY POOR gas mileage on it (15 mpg!). I've had 4-cylinders car for the last 30 years, and have never had this problem before. Can anyone tell me if this is inherent in the new cars, or is it just a problem with Subarus? The explanation from the dealer's service dept. was to drive to LA and back several times to solve the problem! It's a real disappointment, and makes me wish I'd bought the Honda!

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