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#2856 of 19336 Brake problems?
Feb 16, 2004 (8:40 pm)
I have a 2002 Legacy and have had to replace tires at 22,000 miles and have some tire problems again at 40,000. I have been told by the service dept at the dealership that this is a common problem with the Legacy L - it goes though tires quickly. I also had to have brakes replaced at 30,000 mi under warranty and was told I was lucky they lasted that long and that the brakes usually need replacing Every 15,000 miles or so. I was shocked. I have heard of others getting the very same message. I am ready to get rid of this car. I was told that it is only the Legacy L that has brake problems.
I am debating getting a new Forester instead, but now I am reading about similar problems with the Forester. What is the real story on the Subaru brakes? I would love to buy another Subaru, but I don't want to make the same mistake twice. Please Help!
Feb 16, 2004 (8:51 pm)
where have you been hearing of Forester brake problems? I don't think it is here, because you can check the last year plus and the Forester has no such issues.
15k here on my '03 XS, just rotated my tires and they are like new. Pads like new too. Master cylinder still at "maximum".
#2858 of 19336 tires & brakes
Feb 16, 2004 (10:35 pm)
My original RE92 tires went 40K miles before being replaced by RE92 wheels and tires from a WRX for another 40k miles. the original brake pads went over 65k miles. The rear pads were worn but the front pads still had quite a bit of lining remaining. YMMV of course.
2000 Legacy L
#2859 of 19336 Molly - I'd be very interested in the name of
Feb 17, 2004 (3:51 am)
the dealer that said these things to you. It's news to me! If the tires are rotated as recommended, you shouldn't have a problem. Tires are a delicate balance. We try to provide a tire that is middle ground. Tires that claim they last a long time often produce a harsher/noiser ride. Also, some folks need more traction that all-season tires if they are in a snow area vs. folks that want an easier riding tire where they get little or no snow. The wear "norm" is indicated on the numbers on the side wall.
Brakes can wear differently for different drivers/different road conditions in the area. What area of the country is this dealer located? Anyway, can you advise of the name of this dealer? We should councel them on providing incorrect information.
#2860 of 19336 re: AT shifting in cold weather
Feb 17, 2004 (6:22 am)
Jon, Could you be more specific? Does it seem to hold 1st gear longer than you think it should when cold?
It could be a number of issues, from electronic controls thru mechanical sensors and valve body parts. I would try the simple stuff first. Have you considered one of those solvent flushes that some of the quick oil change places have? If the problem is gummy parts in the valve body, this might free them up.
#2861 of 19336 clunk from rear
Feb 17, 2004 (7:00 am)
This morning in stop & go traffic, I could hear a clunk from the rear of my wrx every time I depressed the clutch after I got it to creep from a stop. I would engage the clutch, no gas, and when the car moved about a car length, I would depress the clutch and when the clutch disengaged, I could hear a clunk. It sounds like the rear diff. I am wondering why it happens when load is disengaged and not when the drivetrain receives load.
Any ideas folks?
#2862 of 19336 Coolant, & AT shifting
Feb 17, 2004 (7:49 am)
Thank you for your prompt response. My '97 w/ just over 100K miles has had no symptoms of HG leaks or overheating problems, I just want to keep it running well and wondered if this would help. I am aware that when the Phase 1's leak it's usually the more hidden and hard to diagnose internal problems, so I watch my coolant level and condition, and temp gauge, religiously. I'll consider the coolant additive for our '03 TS though. Thanks.
Jon ('98 AT): My 4EAT goes 1-2 pretty harshly, esp. when it's cold. It gets better as the car warms up though. I noticed an improvement recently by my draining and refilling the AT fluid. It's very easy to do on mine, only cost $15 for the fluid. Mine *looked* and smelled clean on the dipstick, but when compared to the new fluid in bulk form, the old looked much darker and smelled a bit, and this was at only 20K miles since the last change.
Feb 17, 2004 (8:41 am)
Mike: I agree, just start using the conditioner and keep an eye on the temp gauge. In fact, you could flush the coolant again in a few months to see if it's working.
mollyk: my 1998 Forester is still on its original brake pads, at 60k miles. YMMV.
Don: check the tires, make sure the diameters are all even. It could be the rear LSD locking up if one tire is flat or something.
#2864 of 19336 allllllrighty then...
Feb 17, 2004 (11:44 am)
Thanks John, Patti and Juice for your responces!Subaru parts counter here I come! I figure it couldn't hurt to use the additive, I was quoted 2k to replace the HGs, that would really hurt! but if I have to I have to... I have been keeping an eye on the temp guage since and the dance hasn't returned yet, keeping my fingers crossed. Its a bit cold to do another flush, so I'll wait untill the air temp creeps up abit. I figure I'll add the additive to a clean system so I can really monitor its effects.
Feb 17, 2004 (11:52 am)
I am still on my original break fluid, well maybe not original but its been in there for quiet a while (had the master cylinder recall done at around 30K), service guys at Bridgestone Firestone wouldn't even touch it, saying the stuff in there is cleaner than the new fluid they would be putting it. No fading of breaking power, pressure is still the same as day one. Replaced the front pads once but that was a normal wear item and to be honest it probably didn't need replacement but I did it anyways as a what-the-hell item at 60K. Still on the original rear shoes at >106K! Go SUBARU!!