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#19163 of 19336 Trailer Hitch on Outback
Jul 28, 2011 (2:26 pm)
I have a 2010 Outback and want to get a trailer hitch installed. Subaru wants $550, but I can get a hitch a lot cheaper through an after market shop at around $315. My question is will the dealer installed hitch fit nicely into the rear bumper or will it basically look identical to an after market hitch. What I'm really worried about is will I see a horizontal bar sitting below the bumper.
#19164 of 19336 Re: Trailer Hitch on Outback [joe356]
Jul 29, 2011 (9:33 am)
I am not sure about the Outback's factory hitch. On the Forester, the factory hitch sits just below the bumper shell, which is the same (although different design) as aftermarket units.
One thing to consider is that the factory unit is a Class II (1.25" receiver), whereas you can get a Class III (2" receiver) in the aftermarket, usually at the same cost for parts. I find the 2" more robust and versatile.
Again, if anything like the Forester, aftermarket units for the Outback will not extend further back than the bumper shell itself and sit just below it, which works out to be the same level as the exhaust.
#19165 of 19336 Re: Trailer Hitch on Outback [xwesx]
Jul 29, 2011 (9:53 am)
I agree with Wes' post entirely. I would recommend the 2" hitch despite the fact it will hang below the bumper. (Looks like it has a purpose to me...)
But if you insist on the 1.25" that is fine. It'll be adequate for a bike rack or so, but not any real towing.
#19166 of 19336 Re: Trailer Hitch on Outback [colin_l]
Aug 01, 2011 (10:22 am)
So those cheesy previews for the movie Godzilla were correct, Size Does Matter.
#19167 of 19336 Misfire Codes
Aug 10, 2011 (5:30 pm)
When I left work yesterday, my 10 year old next month '02 OBW tossed me a Check Engine light. I felt a little odd rumbling shortly after startup, but nothing too noticeable, and she drove fine going home.
When I got home, I hooked her up to my Autoenginuity interface and to my laptop, and it showed P0303 (misfire, cyl 3) along with confirmation from the snapshot data that the little rumble was probably the event - 90'F coolant, 1300 rpm, no load, zero mph, etc. There was also a second code of P0304 (misfire, cyl 4).
I began pulling spark plug wires for a resistance check, and while the boots and coil connections for cyl 1 & 2 were bright shiny, cyl 4 was tarnished, and cyl 3 on both the boot and the coil pack connection were black & charred. Bingo, I think even a half blind guy could figure this one out!
A little emery cloth cleanup worked temporary wonders to get me thru. I cleared the codes and she ran fine today. New plugs, wires & coil pack are waiting at the parts counter for pickup tomorrow. Hopefully there is nothing else hiding in there behind what appears to be an obvious fault and fix.
#19168 of 19336 Re: Misfire Codes [fibber2]
Aug 10, 2011 (6:43 pm)
Oh, if only all repairs were so straight-forward! Nicely done, by the way, Steve.
The auto repair I tended to yesterday - on my "birthday" no less - was seemingly straight forward, but turned out to be far less than cooperative.
#19169 of 19336 Re: Misfire Codes [xwesx]
Aug 11, 2011 (4:04 am)
Three weeks ago it was front brakes. Within a week of driving, a little front squeal from the wear sensor went from light to critical. By the time I got the pads out (Hawk HPS), the inner pad lower edge on both sides literally crumbled and fell of the backing plate. I was probably a day away from wiping out the rotors. The joys of an aging vehicle.
So what ruined your birthday? Just turned 29, eh? Happy BD!
#19170 of 19336 Re: Misfire Codes [fibber2]
Aug 11, 2011 (8:35 am)
Hahah; yep - 5th anniversary of it!
It didn't ruin my birthday; I don't put much stock in them anyway, so no harm, no foul.
Anyway, I was planning to replace a rear suspension component that is slightly bent (in preparation for an alignment tomorrow). This part is something that is not readily available, and must be ordered from "Ford," so it is pretty spendy new ($150). Being the frugal and practical person I am, I decided that such a part should be easily obtainable through a salvage yard. So, I picked one up for $25 on Tuesday with this grand plan of swapping it out in about a half hour's time. Hah.... hahahahahahhahaha!
With their engineering genius fully intact, the folks who designed the suspension on this car decided that a single bolt, about 6-7" long, that runs through the rear component I needed to replace, then through two tunneled holes in the wheel spindle, and terminates on the far side of the front-side counterpart to my component, was the best way to approach that challenge.
It is all well and good, of course, unless a component actually needs replacing! While there was no visible corrosion, the clearance through those "tunnels" in the spindle are so small that the bolt had soundly fused itself to them.
I pulled the nut off the front side and first tried to pound out the bolt from that end. Nope. I then shot the whole bolt with some liquid wrench and let it sit for a while. I came back and tried the same tactic as above, with the same results. So, I tried turning the bolt from the other end to break the connection. Nope. I tried getting more leverage by using a "breaker bar." Well, I couldn't find any pipe that would fit over the 13/16" wrench I was using, so I went to the shed and pulled out a metal fence post driver (you know those big, heavy, seriously-overkill-for-this-application drivers?). I put that on the wrench, which gave me enough leverage that I could feel the wrench flexing inside it, and nothing. I then placed the whole of my body weight on it and, while literally balancing on the thing, tapped the bolt with a 2# sledge. Nothing. I moved up to pounding with the sledge.... nothing.
Do you see where this is going? Yes, that's right... no where!
So, I decided that the arm wasn't really bent that badly and the shop will just have to make it work. I put everything back together, bled the brakes just to feel like I did something useful, and called it a night.
Oh, and I replaced the front brake rotors, calipers, pads, tie rod ends, and re-replaced a ball joint (that I "just" replaced two years ago!) on the front end over the weekend... all of which went perfectly well, so I guess I was due.
Old cars - it's a love or hate relationship!
#19171 of 19336 Re: Misfire Codes [xwesx]
Aug 12, 2011 (4:29 am)
Normal tools seem less and less effective in crowded engine bays (and suspensions) nowadays.
Happy belated b-day.
#19172 of 19336 Re: Misfire Codes [ateixeira]
Aug 12, 2011 (8:24 am)
I had new tires put on the car yesterday, and it is at the shop for its alignment today, so I hope I get good news at some point this afternoon.... !