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#19031 of 19283 Re: Updates, Big Help needed [xwesx]
Apr 06, 2011 (7:22 pm)
They are replacing my head gaskets free of charge! That is the really good part. I have done ALL of the recommended services including timing belt and water pump replacement at 103,000. Head gaskets replaced at 106,000.
Now, the dealership called me back and said that my water pump is spewing all over the timing belt. Sooo...I have to get those replaced as well...and I have to purchase those parts out of pocket.
So, the long and short of it...I am a VERY GRATEFUL that Subaru is picking up the parts and labor for the head gaskets.
My real concerns as noted above:
- If I am RELIGIOUS about all service and have done EVERYTHING Subaru recommends and serviced at a reputable NH dealership... why should I have to replace my head gaskets, water pump and timing belt after AT MOST... 40,000 miles?
This will be my last year with the trusty beast... I plan on purchasing a 2012 Outback... so just need it to get through another NH winter....
#19032 of 19283 Re: Updates, Big Help needed [fibber2]
Apr 07, 2011 (6:31 am)
Knock on wood but half a dozen Subarus in my family, most of the vintage prone to HG issues, and not a single problem here.
Everyone kept scaring me the same way, but the issue simply never came up. We still have an 02 (dad's) and an 03 (sister's) running like a top.
#19033 of 19283 Re: Updates, Big Help needed [pathtomax]
Apr 07, 2011 (6:33 am)
You'll easily make it through another winter. But I would firm up those 2012 plans!
Subaru had several bad years for head gaskets and they made changes. My point is that when you have an all-aluminum engine and it has bad headgaskets-- especially if it severely overheats-- it's likely something is warped and you're going to keep blowing head gaskets.
#19034 of 19283 Re: Updates, Big Help needed [colin_l]
Apr 07, 2011 (6:35 am)
Can't they true up the heads? Machine shop, I mean.
#19035 of 19283 Re: Updates, Big Help needed [colin_l]
Apr 07, 2011 (7:42 am)
I have a 2000 Forester and only starting having problems after the idler pulley went bad a caused the timing belt to jump. This was past the 200K mark.
I like Subaru's so much, I bought a 2011 Outback despite the fact I hate car notes/payments. And have not had one in 10 years.
#19036 of 19283 Re: Updates, Big Help needed [ateixeira]
Apr 07, 2011 (8:38 am)
ah ha, someone asked the good question! To be blunt, dealerships that I have followed on repair work have been graded poorly. The guys are demanded to work fast and head jobs are something you do not do fast! No machine shop there! Chances are, the head has not even been shaved! Then there is the question about the block. Is it true? That would require tearing the engine down to machine it. We are talking some precise measuring tools here. Remember dealers make money selling cars!!!!
Given all of the trouble you are having, I still say it is dealer caused, "prove it." or something is warped. Usually when you strip a bolt you damage the nut as well! Same applies when you warp a head, you do the same to a block! Question becomes, how much? Only takes once and the problem never goes away.
Bottom line, someone is missing something very small when they are working on it. It is the small stuff that will screw you over every time!
#19037 of 19283 Re: Updates, Big Help needed [girlcarbuilder]
Apr 07, 2011 (10:46 am)
This was quite a good post in a number of ways in my opinion. When working on an engine and you are being paid piece work, and delays come out of your own pocket, I have been in shops and seen a 'mechanic' discover that a block thread was stripped previously and wouldn't torque up properly, but continued to nudge torque as much as dared and continue on with 'repair'. You do this with a headgasket bolt for example and it will give trouble prematurely as in what seems to be what you are experiencing. I would be tempted to chat with the mechanic doing the repair and tell him straight up that if he encounters what he suspects may be a similar situation, that you will pay him extra out of your own pocket to take measures to address a possible stripped thread, by using JB Weld or some other measure to help ensure greater longevity. This holds true down the road when some unsuspecting purchaser decides on the cleanest looking and cared for car that has ver 160k miles because high miles is what is his budget. That extra step might make the difference for him to actually get 50k miles out of your old car when he buys it at, say, 160k, rather than find out he just bought a car that 5 or 10k later he too is doing yet another HG, thinking that if he invests in that then hopefully he can get another 70k+ out of the car.
HG's (that contaminate other components) every 40k miles (2 to 3 years) is considered pretty expen$ive repairs.
#19038 of 19283 Trans diff clutch & seal kit?
Apr 15, 2011 (10:21 am)
I took my car to the dealer to fix what i thought was a rear wheel bearing. They confirmed that problem, but said that in addition to that, I need a "trans diff clutch and seal kit" (that's what they wrote on the repair order). I did hear 2 different kind of noises from the back, one fairly constant, at highway speeds, like a propeller plane, and another one more like thumping that I could hear at speeds as low as 35 mph.
My question is, what is a "trans diff clutch and seal kit"? What would be the symptoms of that failing?
Dealer wants about $1460 + tax for these 2 repairs.
#19039 of 19283 Re: Trans diff clutch & seal kit? [daniell]
Apr 15, 2011 (11:46 am)
What year & model is your car? How many miles? Is it manual or automatic?
#19040 of 19283 Re: Trans diff clutch & seal kit? [colin_l]
Apr 15, 2011 (12:11 pm)
It's a 2002 Forester S, 92k miles, automatic.