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Subaru Crew Problems & Solutions

19283 messages,  Last post on May 01, 2013 at 9:15 AM

You are in the Subaru Crew Forum.

What is this discussion about? Subaru Impreza, Subaru Outback, Subaru Forester, Subaru Legacy, Coupe, Sedan, Wagon, SUV


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Messages Page 1898 of 1930

#18962 of 19283 Re: Hitch for 2010Forester [sgloon] by colin_l

Mar 02, 2011 (3:19 pm)

Replying to: sgloon (Mar 02, 2011 2:55 pm)
What's the tongue weight and gross weight of what you intend to pull?
 
Despite only intending to use it once, I wouldn't skip here, mainly because the proper solution is rather inexpensive. I've put Draw-Tite hitches on a few vehicles, including my '08 Suzuki G-V.
 
Looks like they have a 1.25" and 2" option for the Forester:
http://www.drawtite-hitches.com/hitchsearch?year=2010&make=Subaru&model=Forester-
 
I would get the 2" despite the Forester only being rated to tow 2400lb. You can't do a lot with a 1.25" hitch.

#18963 of 19283 Re: Hitch for 2010Forester [sgloon] by xwesx

Mar 02, 2011 (3:36 pm)

Replying to: sgloon (Mar 02, 2011 2:55 pm)
The new units that attach to the car are hitch receivers, and they come in multiple classes. The Subaru unit is a Class II, which has a 1.25" receiver. Cost-wise, I recommend an aftermarket brand - they are less expensive and more readily available. I put a Curt unit on my 2010 Forester, also with manual transmission. I opted for a Class III receiver, which has a 2" receiver and a higher weight rating. It is overkill considering the weight ratings for the car, but I use mine in conjunction with a cargo tray, which puts more stress on the unit than a ball hitch, as well as using it as an attachment point for vehicle recovery (something I do not recommend with a Class II unit!).
 
The install can be done professionally or by yourself. It takes approximately an hour and is a simple bolt-on install. I can give you more information in that regard if you are interested in doing it yourself.
 
The Curt Class III hitch part number is 13147 and can be had for about $130. You'll also need a wiring harness to connect the trailer lights (plug & play!), which adds about $40.00. I purchased a T-One #118467 for my car. You can either run the wiring out the hatch and just close it in the seal for temporary use, or send it through the spare tire well and under the car for a permanent mount to the outside.
 
I highly recommend e-trailer.com as a vendor. They have a good selection and great service!
 
That said, I purchased my receiver from Amazon.com as they offer free shipping to Alaska.

#18964 of 19283 Re: Hitch for 2010Forester [colin_l] by xwesx

Mar 02, 2011 (3:25 pm)

Replying to: colin_l (Mar 02, 2011 3:19 pm)
Very true, plus the cost difference is negligible in terms of initial investment.

#18965 of 19283 Re: Hitch for 2010Forester [xwesx] by xwesx

Mar 02, 2011 (3:36 pm)

Replying to: xwesx (Mar 02, 2011 3:36 pm)
Here are a couple photos of the Curt Class III immediately after install last year. It works great and appears subtle.
 

 

#18966 of 19283 Re: Hitch for 2010Forester [sgloon] by aatherton

Mar 02, 2011 (7:20 pm)

Replying to: sgloon (Mar 02, 2011 2:55 pm)
"... have to get a hitch for my MT 2010 Forester in order to haul some stuff across the country... What are your recommendations? Off brand vs Subaru brand? Is there one I can get that is removable afterwards? Approximate cost? I want to have something safe, but minimize my cost, as this will probably be the only time I use it."
 
The OEM hitch is more expensive and complicated to install,. It replaces the internal bumper beam and does not hang below the bumper. It also leaves the tie-down eyes intact.
 
The aftermarket hitches are cheaper and easier to install. They use the holes for the tie-down eyes, which are discarded, and they hang below the bumper. One of the holes must be enlarged, and two of the bolts must be "fished" to install them.
 
The tie-down eyes are used to hold the car on a flat bed tow truck. In their absence, the driver will find someplace else for his chain hook that is not so good for the car.
 
The hitch itself is not a good point:
http://www.subaruforester.org/vbulletin/f74/lets-see-your-hitch-30094/index6.htm- l#post761243
 

#18967 of 19283 Re: Hitch for 2010Forester [colin_l] by sgloon

Mar 02, 2011 (9:44 pm)

Replying to: colin_l (Mar 02, 2011 3:19 pm)
Thanks for the comments & help!
 
I do not know the tongue or gross weight. I'm expecting it will hopefully not be a problem for this vehicle. I'll be pulling a u-haul and filling it with table saw and jointer, possibly a band saw, dining room table w/6 chairs, a couple of overstuffed chairs and a few boxes of stuff.
 
$130 sounds doable. The rental for the uhaul one way was about that same cost. Gas will be way worse at the rate it is going up!
 
What does the 1.25 vs the 2" mean? I have an old ball somewhere, if I can find it , but not sure what size it would be...

#18968 of 19283 Re: Hitch for 2010Forester [aatherton] by sgloon

Mar 02, 2011 (9:47 pm)

Replying to: aatherton (Mar 02, 2011 7:20 pm)
I assume from your comments that if I use the aftermarket version that requires enlarging the holes, that I won't be able to screw in the tie-down eyes any more? Did I read that right?
 
I believe my tie down eyes for the 2009 that I no longer have were in the spare tire well. I assume this would be true for the 2010? I'll have to get out in daylight hours to check that out...

#18969 of 19283 Re: Hitch for 2010Forester [xwesx] by sgloon

Mar 02, 2011 (9:54 pm)

Replying to: xwesx (Mar 02, 2011 3:36 pm)
Thanks for the pics! They are helpful.

#18970 of 19283 Re: Hitch for 2010Forester [sgloon] by xwesx

Mar 03, 2011 (12:58 am)

Replying to: sgloon (Mar 02, 2011 9:47 pm)
aatherton was referring to the 2008 and under models. The 2010 does not have the same strapping system, and there is no requirement to remove anything.
 
For the Class III, which I definitely recommend based on the load you say you intend to haul, I did need to enlarge the holes in order to fish the bolts and washers through. It was a simple process with a Dremel. However, while installing the wiring harness a few months later, I found that the top of the frame rail (accessed from inside the car) has some rather large holes that are covered with some adhesive. Removing that adhesive exposes the top side of the bolt holes, and I strongly suspect one could use that access point to install the bolts without having to modify the frame at all.
 
I only wish I would have installed the wiring first so I could have tested that theory for myself. Not only would it have prevented any modification requirement, but it also would have sped up the whole process by 20+ minutes! For a one-hour job, that's significant all by itself.

#18971 of 19283 Re: Hitch for 2010Forester [sgloon] by xwesx

Mar 03, 2011 (1:05 am)

Replying to: sgloon (Mar 02, 2011 9:44 pm)
What does the 1.25 vs the 2" mean? I have an old ball somewhere, if I can find it , but not sure what size it would be...
 
The 1.25 versus 2 inch difference is in the ball mount - the unit that slides into the square receiver shown in the photos I posted earlier. See this page: http://www.etrailer.com/Ball-Mount for clarification. The ball for this trailer will likely be a 2" (which can be purchased for both the 2" or 1.25" ball mount). 1-7/8" is the size smaller, which is typically reserved for very small utility, watercraft, and ATV trailers. A ball mount and ball will typically run about $20-25 for a basic unit, more for one that is adjustable.

Messages Page 1898 of 1930

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