Last post on Nov 27, 2013 at 1:06 PM
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#18956 of 19336 Re: New Car Break-In [fendertweed]
Feb 28, 2011 (12:33 pm)
"... my understanding is that the HG problem is largely corrected by my MY ('09)..."
The HG problem was caused by the open deck cylinder block design, which was not corrected until the new engine for MY 2011.
The HG problem is only mitigated by changes in the HG design, and by the addition of Subaru Coolant Conditioner, which is Holt's RadWeld. Holt's Radweld contains a sealant compound that solidifies when deprived of water. This happens first in the confines of a compromised HG, and later if the compound should make its way past the gasket and meet air.
Subaru calls their additive a "conditioner":
But it is repackaged Holts Radweld "sealant":
A sealant does not prevent a leak. It only tries to stop a leak after it has occurred. Once a leak occurs, the sealant goes to work plugging the path of the leak.
If the additive is in the coolant before a leak is apparent, you may never know if or when it has gone to work. In that case, you will think it prevented a leak.
If the additive is used after a leak is apparent, the leak may stop. In that case, you will think it fixed the leak.
Perhaps the 2009 engine and the HG that apparently only fits it solved the leak problem.
Otherwise, for peace of mind from HG leaks, one must either buy the longest Subaru Gold extended warranty possible, or buy a Forester with the redesigned 3rd generation 2011 engine, where head coolant does not pass through the HG.
#18957 of 19336 Re: New Car Break-In [aatherton]
Feb 28, 2011 (1:20 pm)
I cannot open your links, but I believe it is actually Radweld Plus, not the baseline product.
#18959 of 19336 Re: New Car Break-In [aatherton]
Feb 28, 2011 (3:19 pm)
The blue colored bottle is simply more attractive than the kaopectate tone!
I've heard that all is well as long as the cooling system stays closed. The stuff stays in suspension until it hits air (at the failed gasket site), and then it seals. The problems arise when the system fails totally and you have to tear it down. Word has it that it can set up like concrete in places you don't want it to!
#18960 of 19336 Re: New Car Break-In [aatherton]
Mar 01, 2011 (8:23 am)
I've been planning to get a Subaru svc contract before my factory coverage expires ...
#18961 of 19336 Hitch for 2010Forester
Mar 02, 2011 (1:55 pm)
I'd love to get a recommendation from the group. It looks like I'm going to have to get a hitch for my MT 2010 Forester in order to haul some stuff across the country.
Last time I had a hitch put on(long time ago), someone just welded it to the under carriage of my 1986 Subie, so, I am way out of touch.
What are your recommendations? Off brand vs Subaru brand? Is there one I can get that is removable afterwards? Approximate cost?
I want to have something safe, but minimize my cost, as this will probably be the only time I use it.
Thanks for your help.
#18962 of 19336 Re: Hitch for 2010Forester [sgloon]
Mar 02, 2011 (2:19 pm)
What's the tongue weight and gross weight of what you intend to pull?
Despite only intending to use it once, I wouldn't skip here, mainly because the proper solution is rather inexpensive. I've put Draw-Tite hitches on a few vehicles, including my '08 Suzuki G-V.
Looks like they have a 1.25" and 2" option for the Forester:
I would get the 2" despite the Forester only being rated to tow 2400lb. You can't do a lot with a 1.25" hitch.
#18963 of 19336 Re: Hitch for 2010Forester [sgloon]
Mar 02, 2011 (2:36 pm)
The new units that attach to the car are hitch receivers, and they come in multiple classes. The Subaru unit is a Class II, which has a 1.25" receiver. Cost-wise, I recommend an aftermarket brand - they are less expensive and more readily available. I put a Curt unit on my 2010 Forester, also with manual transmission. I opted for a Class III receiver, which has a 2" receiver and a higher weight rating. It is overkill considering the weight ratings for the car, but I use mine in conjunction with a cargo tray, which puts more stress on the unit than a ball hitch, as well as using it as an attachment point for vehicle recovery (something I do not recommend with a Class II unit!).
The install can be done professionally or by yourself. It takes approximately an hour and is a simple bolt-on install. I can give you more information in that regard if you are interested in doing it yourself.
The Curt Class III hitch part number is 13147 and can be had for about $130. You'll also need a wiring harness to connect the trailer lights (plug & play!), which adds about $40.00. I purchased a T-One #118467 for my car. You can either run the wiring out the hatch and just close it in the seal for temporary use, or send it through the spare tire well and under the car for a permanent mount to the outside.
I highly recommend e-trailer.com as a vendor. They have a good selection and great service!
That said, I purchased my receiver from Amazon.com as they offer free shipping to Alaska.
#18964 of 19336 Re: Hitch for 2010Forester [colin_l]
Mar 02, 2011 (2:25 pm)
Very true, plus the cost difference is negligible in terms of initial investment.
#18965 of 19336 Re: Hitch for 2010Forester [xwesx]
Mar 02, 2011 (2:36 pm)
Here are a couple photos of the Curt Class III immediately after install last year. It works great and appears subtle.