Last post on Nov 27, 2013 at 1:06 PM
You are in the Subaru Crew
What is this discussion about?
Subaru Impreza, Subaru Outback, Subaru Forester, Subaru Legacy, Coupe, Sedan, Wagon, SUV
Go to NHTSA to file a safety complaint.
Or call Monday-Friday (8 am to 8 pm ET) (888) 327-4236 TTY: (800)424-9153
Your Community Leaders are ateixeira and rsholland.
#18835 of 19336 Re: Clutch hydraulics [ueyn]
Sep 26, 2010 (4:49 pm)
This is NOT an unknown problem. There is a Subaru Technical Bulletin #03-52-03R
That refers to this. Our 2001 Legacy Outback has had this problem intermittently for
years. The pedal first stuck to the floor up at Tahoe, just like Ueyn described.
It also gets worse at sea level when it is hot.
Hydraulic clutches are nothing new but Subaru is the worst I' ve experienced.
We had the clutch replaced years ago for juddering. Later I believe the
dealer replaced slave cyl because of sponginess. Last weekend I changed brake
and clutch fluid. After behaving well for about a week the sponginess has returned with a vengeance. On a hot afternoon two days ago, the pedal went to the floor and
stayed there. I pulled it up and pressed again and it stayed. Repeated multiple times. I bled again and it seemed ok until today, another hot day. Again pedal stuck to the floor.
Sept 26 2010
#18836 of 19336 Re: 08 Legacy seat and hood paint chip [snoogs51]
Sep 27, 2010 (11:37 am)
I still don't think a Cobalt (OK, Cobalt SS) would have held up any better.
#18837 of 19336 Re: 08 Legacy seat and hood paint chip [ateixeira]
Sep 27, 2010 (4:58 pm)
overall, I have been disappointed in my Subaru, paint waer, interior wear, and and motor. My son has a 1998 Cavalier (pre colbalt) that has 180,000 miles and has held up better than the Subaru. The only difference is I take better care of my cars than he does.
#18838 of 19336 Re: 08 Legacy seat and hood paint chip [snoogs51]
Sep 28, 2010 (7:25 am)
Sorry to hear that!
#18839 of 19336 CD player problem
Oct 01, 2010 (7:02 pm)
I have a little problem with the CD player in my new Outback (2011). I've only owned it for one week, but twice now the CD player has not swallowed the CD when I try to put it in. And there is no CD in the player at the time.
When I turn off the car and restart, then it works again. Its happened twice in my first week of ownership.
How many more times should I wait before I take it to the dealer. If/when it does happen again, I plan to keep the car running all the way to the dealer to prove to the mechanic that I'm not making stuff up.
#18840 of 19336 Re: CD player problem [thor14]
Oct 04, 2010 (8:37 am)
My suspicion is that it is only going to get worse, so I would take it in. You're right - with these hit and miss problems, you do need to take it in and have someone, like the service manager, see it while it is malfunctioning. If you take it to them and say, "one in a while the CD player won't take a disc," and just leave them the keys, you can bet the response will be "couldn't replicate problem."
#18841 of 19336 Re: Overheating - Catastraphic Failure
Oct 06, 2010 (6:39 pm)
On Monday the 4th at 7:15 am, I looked down at my temperature gauge and saw it pegged past red line. With my heart racing I pulled over. Found that the radiator developed a leak and almost all the coolant had leaked out. Since it was raining, I go some water from a low area in the grass and spent the next 2.5 hours limping home. The engine would overheat every five miles filling the overflow tank. When it cooled off it would suck the coolant back into the radiator.
Tomorrow, I start to take the head off. What is the easiest way to get the engine out? I took the head assembly out before, but had to work between the fender. And this time I have to do both sides.
Also, what is the best method to torque the head down? I have trouble keeping track of back 180 degress and forward 90 degrees.
Help from anyone is greatly appreciated.
#18842 of 19336 Re: Overheating - Catastraphic Failure [phil2000]
Oct 06, 2010 (6:49 pm)
Sounds like a job for our secret agent Wes in Fairbanks, Alaska.
APB for Wes! I can see the 'bat' lamp playing on the low hanging clouds in Gotham City tonight!
#18843 of 19336 Re: Overheating - Catastraphic Failure [phil2000]
Oct 06, 2010 (7:13 pm)
Ouch. Based on personal experience, I bet your heads and possibly deck are warped. The EJ series doesn't seem to handle overheating well. (What all aluminum engine does?)
I would shop around for a used longblock, especially considering your high mileage.
#18844 of 19336 Re: Overheating - Catastraphic Failure [phil2000]
Oct 07, 2010 (9:36 am)
In this case, I have to agree with Colin - your best bet may be replacement of the long block. That said, nearly all the work you need to do to get the car to the point of installing a new long block must be done either way, so might as well pull the heads and see how it looks.
First of all, and I know you're not going to want to hear this Phil, I strongly recommend that you either buy, borrow, or rent an engine puller and stand! This job, especially with both heads, is MUCH easier to do with the engine out of the car and I cannot stress that enough. Oh, hah! Now I see that you already had that in mind: What is the easiest way to get the engine out?
Okay, so answering the questions you asked instead of ranting, here we go:
Getting the engine out is a piece of cake. Seriously - it is the easiest engine I've ever removed. First, pop the hood bolts (four) and set the hood across your roof rails, then take yourself some handy masking tape and a pen... and label everything! If it is a connector, hose, crud, you name it, if it is going to come off, label it. That way, you don't have to rely on your memory to reinstall. You don't need the technical names either, just something that makes sense (such as fuel line upper, fuel line lower, sensor rear engine, etc).
Once you have that out of the way, start at the bottom and work your way up: drain fluids, disconnect exhaust manifolds, engine mounts, lower/side transaxle bolts, torque converter bolts (is yours an auto?) - which you'll need to turn the engine manually a time or two with a 22mm socket on the front of the crankshaft to expose all of them (there should be four IIRC), and lower radiator hose. Then come to the top and pull all of the accessories, intake manifold, radiator, and transaxle support arm (it attaches the bell housing to the fire wall).
You don't need to detach the hoses from the power steering pump or A/C compressor - just move them off to the side over the fenders and use some 14-gauge or baling wire to hold them steady. The intake manifold, likewise, does not need to be disconnected from the throttle cables - you can just lay a blanket (old one!) or cardboard across your windshield and set the unit face down up there.
Now, put a floor jack under your transmission pan and lift just a little to support that unit. Attach your engine to the puller, lift it a few inches until it slips free of the engine mounts, and then readjust your floor jack to continue supporting the transaxle before pulling the engine forward to free it from the bell housing. All told, about two hours (maybe three to account for the labeling).
I tend to install in the same fashion as I removed it... not reverse (e.g. - start at the bottom and work up).
Torquing the heads: I'm not sure I can help you with this one. I just used frame of reference on my engine, making sure each head I did was facing up at the time (by rotating it on the engine stand). Note the starting position, and move back 1/2 turn, then forward 1/4 turn. Working from a top-down approach, you eliminate the perspective problems that would be at play trying to do it with the engine in the car.
Keep us posted! I'm glad to help in any way I can. Unfortunately, the page I used to have up that detailed the process I took on my engine is no longer hosted. I can probably activate it somewhere else if you think it would help.